Awning for Bessacarr Wentworth
- Thread starter Delndi
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Hi, for the moment I can only say it's 8inches, (20cm), shorter than the 94 or 95 model, Bessacarr having removed same in their final year, this makes for a very short side dinette/bunks.
You can though measure it by threading a piece of stout string through the awning rail from ground to ground each end, the string should then be measured in centimetres to give the exact Awning length.
Awnings though are made in 25cm increments, pick the nearest without going under.
I'll have look at my manual next weekend to see if it states the length, probably though either 900cm, 950cm.
Another tip is and as you may have guessed, I've got the same van and if it's anything like mine, it will tow a hell of a sight better fitted with 'red' shock absorbers!
You can though measure it by threading a piece of stout string through the awning rail from ground to ground each end, the string should then be measured in centimetres to give the exact Awning length.
Awnings though are made in 25cm increments, pick the nearest without going under.
I'll have look at my manual next weekend to see if it states the length, probably though either 900cm, 950cm.
Another tip is and as you may have guessed, I've got the same van and if it's anything like mine, it will tow a hell of a sight better fitted with 'red' shock absorbers!
Thanks for that Gary, I haven't actually collected the van yet but 'She who must be obeyed' has been looking at some pictures but cannot find the water inlet point - where you connect the pump which sits in the Aquaroll - It's usually behind a small flap but we can't see it on the photo's. can you give us a clue please
Water inlet depends on what's fitted inside, mine has and internal tank and a water inlet that could be used with an Aquaroll or a hose pipe direct from a tap.
The outside box/cover in this case is a standard 6"x3" 240v box for fitting an outside socket, it's located right at the front on the offside.
Whatever it is though, I'd expect it to be situated here.
While on this subject, Bessacarr's 'legendary' built quality had gone out the window, the holes in the walls for inlet,water heater, battery box ect are not framed with wood? all that's holding them is screws into the skin! check these carefully for signs of softness on the inside wall board where damp may have attacked. also for softness around front windows and especially the strip between front and side windows
Infact and speaking from experience and as you have not yet picked it up, I would strongly recommend getting a damp check done before you except it, sorry to spoil things, but this may save you a lot of grief later?!
The outside box/cover in this case is a standard 6"x3" 240v box for fitting an outside socket, it's located right at the front on the offside.
Whatever it is though, I'd expect it to be situated here.
While on this subject, Bessacarr's 'legendary' built quality had gone out the window, the holes in the walls for inlet,water heater, battery box ect are not framed with wood? all that's holding them is screws into the skin! check these carefully for signs of softness on the inside wall board where damp may have attacked. also for softness around front windows and especially the strip between front and side windows
Infact and speaking from experience and as you have not yet picked it up, I would strongly recommend getting a damp check done before you except it, sorry to spoil things, but this may save you a lot of grief later?!
Hi Gary
Just picked up the Bessacarr and found the water inlet on the offside - it has an internal pump which takes water in from the Aquaroll, just plug in the pipe and switch the pump on. I can't seem to get the heater to come on though - switch it on under the seat and red light comes on but "alarm" light also comes on on the Carver panel and water not heating up very quickly. Have you any ideas please
Just picked up the Bessacarr and found the water inlet on the offside - it has an internal pump which takes water in from the Aquaroll, just plug in the pipe and switch the pump on. I can't seem to get the heater to come on though - switch it on under the seat and red light comes on but "alarm" light also comes on on the Carver panel and water not heating up very quickly. Have you any ideas please
I forgot to mention the internal pump as mine used an external to fill the tank and the internal only from tank to taps!
Anyway, the switch on the side of the bunk near the heater is for electric water heating, if not working on electric when switched on, open the bunk and you will find a red button on the end of the tank more or less behind the switch, press this to reset the overheat thermostat.
Gas water heating is via the switch with three lights in the panel, here's my 'cut out and keep' guide to the Cascade water heater which will explain more;
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a
Anyway, the switch on the side of the bunk near the heater is for electric water heating, if not working on electric when switched on, open the bunk and you will find a red button on the end of the tank more or less behind the switch, press this to reset the overheat thermostat.
Gas water heating is via the switch with three lights in the panel, here's my 'cut out and keep' guide to the Cascade water heater which will explain more;
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps), if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled 'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13 mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a
Many thanks for that Gary - more of a "Dummies Guide" which will be very useful. I measured the awning rail by the way and it comes out at 965cm from ground to ground so I'll be looking for a 975 awning
Hi Gary
I wonder if you can help with this one. The Central Heating works fine on gas using either auto fan or slow fan but when I go to electric, the fan still blows but no heat. The ignition on the cooker has also stopped working which worked fine when we picked up the van. On reading the manual there is mention of the cooker ignition and heater element being on the same fuse ( No 4) on one of the other models but not on the Wentworth - I have checked all the 10A fuses and they all seem OK. Is there some other trip/reset hiding away or is it the thermal fuse ( only replaceable by a trained engineer) that may have blown
I wonder if you can help with this one. The Central Heating works fine on gas using either auto fan or slow fan but when I go to electric, the fan still blows but no heat. The ignition on the cooker has also stopped working which worked fine when we picked up the van. On reading the manual there is mention of the cooker ignition and heater element being on the same fuse ( No 4) on one of the other models but not on the Wentworth - I have checked all the 10A fuses and they all seem OK. Is there some other trip/reset hiding away or is it the thermal fuse ( only replaceable by a trained engineer) that may have blown
Your Fanmaster will have a reset switch for the 240v heating and you can find it here;
www.arcsystems.biz/Pictures/fanmasterreset.jpg
Not sure about your hob igniter but that's 12v, could be a fuse or a wire come loose, the igniter module is top left behind the sink I think?
Also the press button switch is prone to faults?
www.arcsystems.biz/Pictures/fanmasterreset.jpg
Not sure about your hob igniter but that's 12v, could be a fuse or a wire come loose, the igniter module is top left behind the sink I think?
Also the press button switch is prone to faults?
Hi Gary
Found the reset button eventually - didn't see the removeable panel under the drawer at first - still no joy I'm afraid, fan blows but no heat. Fiddled about with the hob igniter button and got a couple of random sparks so I assume the switch is a bit dicky and will get another one
Found the reset button eventually - didn't see the removeable panel under the drawer at first - still no joy I'm afraid, fan blows but no heat. Fiddled about with the hob igniter button and got a couple of random sparks so I assume the switch is a bit dicky and will get another one
Have you found the fanmasters isolation switch? it's stupidly round the side of the control panel at the top under the centre shelf
I'd forgotten where it was originally as I very soon swapped this to the front and put the 13A socket in it's place, this gives the advantage plugs for the tele etc are tucked more out of sight.
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