carver cascade mk1

[richard_374575036]

hello there.

does anyone have a wiring diagram to connect the controller switch to the heater unit on a cascade mk1.

the PCB on the controller has 6 terminals, but no lables.

The heater unit has a 6 way plug but i don't have the wiring loom.

Please Help.

Richard.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello from memory there is a 6 core wire that runs between the heater and the control switch containing:

Red 12+v

Yellow Flame detection

White Temperature sensor

Black 12-ve

Green Ignitor power

Blue Gas valve power

The 12V power for the heater is connected to a two core (Brown +ve Blue -ve) cable that runs to the floor plate of the heater.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello from memory there is a 6 core wire that runs between the heater and the control switch containing:

Red 12+v

Yellow Flame detection

White Temperature sensor

Black 12-ve

Green Ignitor power

Blue Gas valve power

The 12V power for the heater is connected to a two core (Brown +ve Blue -ve) cable that runs to the floor plate of the heater.

PS I can't recall the exact order

 

[gary]

Your memory John is spot on, you have everything correct and in the correct order.

Black being earth, pin4, and it's heavier tracking on the board should help determine from which end you start.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Not bad, considering the last time I looked at one in any detail was in 1986.

 

[gary]

... last time I looked was about 3 weeks ago!

Still I'd say the finest caravan water heater ever made, least judging by what I see? it seems it needs service about once every 20 years or so and totally immune to freezing temperatures... unlike it's successors?!

 

[ProfJohnL]

Great heater yes,

But all that copper and brass makes it expensive. It was also very labour intensive to produce, and the coated steel parts were rather prone to rusting.

The production line for the heat exchanger actually used a timed Cascade 1 burner, box and control circuit to boil the small amount of water used in the heat pipe. Boiling expelled the air at which point the small copper pipe was crimped and filled with solder to seal it.

Neat devices those heat pipes, did you know that one of the most reliable ways of testing if it was likely to work, was to hold the tubular end like a pistol, point the fins down then thump the bend. If it sounded like there was a ball bearing inside, it meant the vacuum was good.

Alternatively hold the bare pipe upwards, and pour warm water (not boiling) over the fin pack, you should almost instantly (