Carver system hot water flow problem
- Thread starter Jackalind_374373608
- Start date
Hello Jackalind,
I am from Truma, we pruchased Carver some time ago.
I beleive that our technical department would be able to help with your enquiry. Please either email them on technical@trumauk.com or call on 01283 586020. The office is closed now but will reopen at 8.30 tomorrow morning.
I hope that this helps.
Regards,
Truma (UK)
visit www.trumauk.com
I am from Truma, we pruchased Carver some time ago.
I beleive that our technical department would be able to help with your enquiry. Please either email them on technical@trumauk.com or call on 01283 586020. The office is closed now but will reopen at 8.30 tomorrow morning.
I hope that this helps.
Regards,
Truma (UK)
visit www.trumauk.com
Hello Jacalind.
Normally the your pump provides the pressure for both hot and cold water, sao I assume that you have no problem with the cold water, which indicates that the pump is not faulty.
The fact that you get some water out of the hot tank also shows that the cold water can flow into it to fill it up.
So if the hot water stops flowing completely, then it sounds as though the water pump is not activating when you turn the hot tap on. The reasons you get some hot water is that hot tank pressurises a little as the water heats up, and when you open the tap the pressure pushes the hot out until the pressure is exhausted.
These symptoms suggests that the pump is operated by small switches in each of the taps, and in this case the switch in the hot tap is not working.
The other possibility is if the hot water does not stop completely but the flow diminishes to a small trickle. In this case, it is possible that the cold water inlet into the heater has been damaged, and the spring operated valve has jammed only partially open. This allows a small trickle through. The valve needs to be serviced or replaced.
The likely cause in the second instance is if the caravan was not completely drained of water over winter storage. The cold weather may well have caused water to freeze in the valve damaging the the internal O ring seal.
Normally the your pump provides the pressure for both hot and cold water, sao I assume that you have no problem with the cold water, which indicates that the pump is not faulty.
The fact that you get some water out of the hot tank also shows that the cold water can flow into it to fill it up.
So if the hot water stops flowing completely, then it sounds as though the water pump is not activating when you turn the hot tap on. The reasons you get some hot water is that hot tank pressurises a little as the water heats up, and when you open the tap the pressure pushes the hot out until the pressure is exhausted.
These symptoms suggests that the pump is operated by small switches in each of the taps, and in this case the switch in the hot tap is not working.
The other possibility is if the hot water does not stop completely but the flow diminishes to a small trickle. In this case, it is possible that the cold water inlet into the heater has been damaged, and the spring operated valve has jammed only partially open. This allows a small trickle through. The valve needs to be serviced or replaced.
The likely cause in the second instance is if the caravan was not completely drained of water over winter storage. The cold weather may well have caused water to freeze in the valve damaging the the internal O ring seal.
This is a very common problem particularly it would seem this spring after the very cold snap we had last winter.
The most likely reason is the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet fitting to the cascade is sticking shut, or in your case partial shut and restricting flow.
Depending on the year, there are two different types of valve, the older and most common is made of white plastic and has a removable end cap to get at the valve, (this leaving the main body of the fitting still in the heat exchanger)
This valve itself consists of a spring loaded shuttle that holds a tiny white 'o' ring and it's this 'o' ring that sticks.
Once you get at it you can check it's still perfectly round and if so relocate it on the shuttle and put the valve back together.
If however the 'o' ring is kinked, then the whole water inlet will need replacing with the later black plastic type.
If your heater is after circa 95 then it will already have this later valve and in some respects can be easier to sort out.
Try this, first get the vans water set up and switch off the pump, now find yourself a longish slim screwdriver. Next remove drain bung and get someone to switch the pump on while you stand to the side and wiggle the screwdriver around at the far end of the drain bung hole?
The plan is to dislodge the sticking non-return valve while pump pressure is trying to push it open, if your successful the water will spurt out around a foot from the van!, don't forget then, stand well to the side!!
If now you replace the drain bung and water pressure is restored, then you may well have fixed the problem with a better than 50/50 chance of it remaining so. However in both types case if it does cause trouble again you will need to replace the whole plastic fitting.
Replacing it has it's own pitfalls as either type fitting has a habit of breaking off leaving the remnants to be removed from the alloy casting of the heat exchanger.
If this should happen, under no circumstances should you attempt to remove them by means of a 'stud extractor' (or 'easy out' as their sometimes known), you can take this bit of advice as underlined...twice!!
In this situation and when you get the parts from me, I supply a pictorial help sheet that describes a simply quick and more importantly, a safe method of removal preventing further harm to your heater.
www.arcsystem.biz Carver heating appliance specialists
The most likely reason is the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet fitting to the cascade is sticking shut, or in your case partial shut and restricting flow.
Depending on the year, there are two different types of valve, the older and most common is made of white plastic and has a removable end cap to get at the valve, (this leaving the main body of the fitting still in the heat exchanger)
This valve itself consists of a spring loaded shuttle that holds a tiny white 'o' ring and it's this 'o' ring that sticks.
Once you get at it you can check it's still perfectly round and if so relocate it on the shuttle and put the valve back together.
If however the 'o' ring is kinked, then the whole water inlet will need replacing with the later black plastic type.
If your heater is after circa 95 then it will already have this later valve and in some respects can be easier to sort out.
Try this, first get the vans water set up and switch off the pump, now find yourself a longish slim screwdriver. Next remove drain bung and get someone to switch the pump on while you stand to the side and wiggle the screwdriver around at the far end of the drain bung hole?
The plan is to dislodge the sticking non-return valve while pump pressure is trying to push it open, if your successful the water will spurt out around a foot from the van!, don't forget then, stand well to the side!!
If now you replace the drain bung and water pressure is restored, then you may well have fixed the problem with a better than 50/50 chance of it remaining so. However in both types case if it does cause trouble again you will need to replace the whole plastic fitting.
Replacing it has it's own pitfalls as either type fitting has a habit of breaking off leaving the remnants to be removed from the alloy casting of the heat exchanger.
If this should happen, under no circumstances should you attempt to remove them by means of a 'stud extractor' (or 'easy out' as their sometimes known), you can take this bit of advice as underlined...twice!!
In this situation and when you get the parts from me, I supply a pictorial help sheet that describes a simply quick and more importantly, a safe method of removal preventing further harm to your heater.
www.arcsystem.biz Carver heating appliance specialists
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