pump seams to be working fine now thanks to your help , we can get cold water through all the taps but no hot water , it comes out in a short burst and thats it . does it need bleeding and if so how do we do it , thanks sarah
carver water heater , no hot water
- Thread starter sarah_374582176
- Start date
the water boiler needs filling.try this,
1, connect aqualroll and pump,
2,check that all drain pipes are closed, look around the boiler.
3,switch on pump all taps closed.
4,open tap in bathroom cold only,it may splish and splurge as air is cleared,when running ok close tap.
5,repeat for all cold taps.
6now open up hot tap at kitchen.pump will run,the system will be noisy,as air is cleared.this takes a few minutes,water will come thru in bursts.there will be noise also at the boiler.
7 when water is running clear from tap close tap.
8 repeat for all hot taps,there will be surges and noise.
9 now switch boiler on.
if no hot water after 20 minutes check fuse panel,
one can use nearly a whole aquaroll of water setting up the system
sarah
1, connect aqualroll and pump,
2,check that all drain pipes are closed, look around the boiler.
3,switch on pump all taps closed.
4,open tap in bathroom cold only,it may splish and splurge as air is cleared,when running ok close tap.
5,repeat for all cold taps.
6now open up hot tap at kitchen.pump will run,the system will be noisy,as air is cleared.this takes a few minutes,water will come thru in bursts.there will be noise also at the boiler.
7 when water is running clear from tap close tap.
8 repeat for all hot taps,there will be surges and noise.
9 now switch boiler on.
if no hot water after 20 minutes check fuse panel,
one can use nearly a whole aquaroll of water setting up the system
sarah
There is a RED reset button on the end of the water heater that will need reset if you have tried to operate the heater with low water level.
Sorry,
forgot the obvious you need to be plugged into Mains electricity and have it switched on.!
forgot the obvious you need to be plugged into Mains electricity and have it switched on.!
or have the gas supply turned on and use the gas controls.
Some units were gas only, some gas and Mains electric. The system does not work with 12volt charger aor battery supply.
- Mar 14, 2005
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Hello Sarah,
Let me get this point out of the way for Sarah and her dogs, The Carver Cascade water heaters are not 'Boilers' they are heaters
Now for the meat of my answer.
The fact that when you get a short burst of hot water tells me the heater is full. And if you cold water supply is good then it is not an air lock in the pipework.
What I suspect has happened is the Cascade's Non-return valve has jammed virtually shut, This is noy uncommon, if the heart was not fully drained down over winter. Some remaining water settles in the NRV, and as it freezes, it distorts an' O'ring seal jamming it, and its shuttle almost totally blocking the cold water flow into the heater.
Over a number of hours the heater will fill up. With this design of heater you canot get any water out of the heater until it is filled up, so as you are getting some hot water, that proves its full.
You get the burst of hot water because the cold water expands as it heats up. This compresses a small air cap in the top of the heater tank, and when a hot tap is opened the air decompresses and pushes out a slug of hot water. The flow is not maintained because of the restriction at the inlet.
The solution is to either repair the Non-return valve, or replace it. Sometimes if the valve is removed and dismantled, the 'O'ring has not be permanently damaged, so it can be repositioned on its shuttle and reassembled to the heater.
In the worst cases the 'O' ring is too severely nicked and it will not work, so the only solution is to replace the valve.
If you cannot get to the cold water inlet of the heater, then you should refer the repair to a competent gas fitter.
Let me get this point out of the way for Sarah and her dogs, The Carver Cascade water heaters are not 'Boilers' they are heaters
Now for the meat of my answer.
The fact that when you get a short burst of hot water tells me the heater is full. And if you cold water supply is good then it is not an air lock in the pipework.
What I suspect has happened is the Cascade's Non-return valve has jammed virtually shut, This is noy uncommon, if the heart was not fully drained down over winter. Some remaining water settles in the NRV, and as it freezes, it distorts an' O'ring seal jamming it, and its shuttle almost totally blocking the cold water flow into the heater.
Over a number of hours the heater will fill up. With this design of heater you canot get any water out of the heater until it is filled up, so as you are getting some hot water, that proves its full.
You get the burst of hot water because the cold water expands as it heats up. This compresses a small air cap in the top of the heater tank, and when a hot tap is opened the air decompresses and pushes out a slug of hot water. The flow is not maintained because of the restriction at the inlet.
The solution is to either repair the Non-return valve, or replace it. Sometimes if the valve is removed and dismantled, the 'O'ring has not be permanently damaged, so it can be repositioned on its shuttle and reassembled to the heater.
In the worst cases the 'O' ring is too severely nicked and it will not work, so the only solution is to replace the valve.
If you cannot get to the cold water inlet of the heater, then you should refer the repair to a competent gas fitter.
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