Changing bulkhead regulator

[Buckman]

Currently we have the Auto Change over bulkhead regulator. It is leaking gas on the side it is not used as we only use one Safefill refillable bottle. Is this a DIY job or something that you need to pay a professional to do?

 

[JTQ]

You should not need to change the bulkhead regulator, just the Gaslow Automatic change over valve if that's what is leaking.
Or as you don't use it why not simply leave it off and connect the Safefill to the regulator directly via a suitable hose; even one salvaged from the changeover valve.
It is something I would do but then I have the competence to undertake such a minor task.

 

[RogerL]

Could you not just fit a blanking cap to the unused side?

 

[Buckman]

You should not need to change the bulkhead regulator, just the Gaslow Automatic change over valve if that's what is leaking.
Or as you don't use it why not simply leave it off and connect the Safefill to the regulator directly via a suitable hose; even one salvaged from the changeover valve.
It is something I would do but then I have the competence to undertake such a minor task.

Sorry I don't understand as thought the Gaslow Auto Change over had the regulator incorprated into it?

 

[Buckman]

Could you not just fit a blanking cap to the unused side?

I have already done that, but not sure if it will be okay in the long term. The current unit is only 4 years old so not sure why it has failed so quick! Thought Gaslow were the Rolls Royce in gas components.

 

[JTQ]

Sorry I don't understand as thought the Gaslow Auto Change over had the regulator incorprated into it?

If you read your own link to the Gaslow Change over valve you will find it screws onto your regulator. It is not a gas regulator, just a source switch, which from what you say, using one Safefill, you don't require that function and so why leave it there?

Unfortunately, not understanding its function rather implies the need for help from someone competent.
Blanking off, a defective item that is not working properly and can not be used as designed is simply a bodged job.

 

[Buckman]

If you read your own link to the Gaslow Change over valve you will find it screws onto your regulator. It is not a gas regulator, just a source switch, which from what you say, using one Safefill, you don't require that function and so why leave it there?

Unfortunately, not understanding its function rather implies the need for help from someone competent.

Then why do they call it an Auto Changeover regulator if it does not have a built in regulator?

Apologies just checked and I posted the wrong link. Link modified and corrected.

 

[JTQ]

Then why do they call it an Auto Changeover regulator if it does not have a built in regulator?

They did not, as originally posted you linked to Gaslow, and to their change over valve.

However, you have now changed to a link to a different product that is combined with a regulator!!!!

 

[RogerL]

Sorry I don't understand as thought the Gaslow Auto Change over had the regulator incorprated into it?

The one in your link as originally posted doesn't

 

[Buckman]

The one in your link as originally posted doesn't

Which is why I corrected the link. We all make mistakes at sometime. However can we get back to the original question of whether it is a DIY change.
I did the one on our Lunar many years ago and replaced with a GOK regulator however it was not an auto changeover regulator.

 

[Buckman]

Just to clarify the concern about changing over the whole unit someone with a Swift Elegance had a clicking noise by their fridge. Unfortunately they then had an explosion which destroyed the caravan however they got away with cuts and scrapes as they were in the caravan at the time.
It was the control module in the fridge that went faulty and caused the explosion. They posted pictures on FB of the Swift caravan so I am just being very cautious and not wanting to d a work around.

 

[ProfJohnL]

The way the UK law is concerned all work on all types of gas installations must carried out to meet relevant standards by a competent person. This means it almost certainly mean that the competent person will have a recognised qualification and be registered with and approved organisation. For gas work that is typically Gas Safe for domestic work.

However the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations have a special exemption for privately owned touring caravans and self propelled motor homes. This exemption is very specific, and does NOT include static or mobile homes, or caravans that are owned by businesses or used for loan or rent to any one other than the private owner.

The exemption allows only the private owner (no one else not even family members who do not own the vehicle) to carry out work on the gas installation and appliances. BUT the work must still be carried out in accordance to the accepted codes of practice pertaining to the work involved, such as methods, and parts and equipment used, and most importantly system testing for safety.

Consider that a caravan still subject to HP agreement of Lease agreement is not owned by the user until the agreement has been fulfilled.

So provided the caravan is fully owned by you and you do not loan it or rent it out to any one else then technically you can undertake the work, but it must be to recognised standards.

Otherwise refer it to a registered professional.

 

[Thingy]

Whyen is your service due. Ask the fitter to do it then if its near to.

 

[Buckman]

Whyen is your service due. Ask the fitter to do it then if its near to.

Service done last month and instead of telling me at time that there was an issue, the mobile technician only told me when I came to collect the caravan. I would have happily paid them to do the exchange.
Doubt if we will use him again next year as charged us £25 to remove the front bunk seats so that they could do a damp check underneath the seats! I have never had this charge imposed by any dealer. Overall his cost was about £25 lower than a dealer after all added costs.

 

[Dustydog]

Assuming the replacement is identical to your existing do you feel capable of breaking and remaking the joints involved? Care is needed doing both as you do not want to damage the pipes. Many people over tighten compression joints which is incorrect and can lead to leakage.
You should test the new joints with something like this https://www.bes.co.uk/ph-gas-leak-detection-spray-400-ml-11721/

Also if you have the equipment a proper pressure drop test is very wise.
And then a double check with the spray after your first longish journey , belts and braces.

 

[Ern]

If I do any work on the gas system on our caravan, I get my neighbour, (a registered plumber) to pop his gauge on it and do the drop test after.

 

[Buckman]

Assuming the replacement is identical to your existing do you feel capable of breaking and remaking the joints involved? Care is needed doing both as you do not want to damage the pipes. Many people over tighten compression joints which is incorrect and can lead to leakage.
You should test the new joints with something like this https://www.bes.co.uk/ph-gas-leak-detection-spray-400-ml-11721/

Also if you have the equipment a proper pressure drop test is very wise.
And then a double check with the spray after your first longish journey , belts and braces.

Thanks for the tip on the spray. I would think that to change it would take about 30 minutes max.

 

[JTQ]

If I do any work on the gas system on our caravan, I get my neighbour, (a registered plumber) to pop his gauge on it and do the drop test after.

Changing a propane cylinder where we are making and breaking at about 7.5 bar at just 10C, that is some 250 times the van's systems pressure, must be way the most probable area for us causing a leak?

The danger mitigated a little by it being a joint out of the van, though a process undertaken many more times than we break joints in the van.

Seems odd, though thankfully the case, we are left trusted to undertake this HP LPG work, but little else without professional oversight?

IMO, all part of the stupidity to move from bottle regulators over to bulk head mounted, where far more joints, and more vulnerable items are at HP.
Massively increase the risk, for what?

 

[Ern]

Changing a propane cylinder where we are making and breaking at about 7.5 bar at just 10C, that is some 250 times the van's systems pressure, must be way the most probable area for us causing a leak?

The danger mitigated a little by it being a joint out of the van, though a process undertaken many more times than we break joints in the van.

Seems odd, though thankfully the case, we are left trusted to undertake this HP LPG work, but little else without professional oversight?

IMO, all part of the stupidity to move from bottle regulators over to bulk head mounted, where far more joints, and more vulnerable items are at HP.
Massively increase the risk, for what?

Ah yes but, the introduction of the bulkhead regulator as prescribed by NCC increased the value added for the manufacturers. We used to fit our own bottle regulators, but the bulkhead reg's and extra labour and piping pushed the price of caravans up nicely. That is the game they have been playing for a good few years.

 

[JTQ]

Ah yes but, the introduction of the bulkhead regulator as prescribed by NCC increased the value added for the manufacturers. We used to fit our own bottle regulators, but the bulkhead reg's and extra labour and piping pushed the price of caravans up nicely. That is the game they have been playing for a good few years.

Of course, silly of me to even consider an end user focused overriding reason might just have motivated this retrograde step along with its extra dangers.

That reason stacks up well with the chosen product most if not all fitted!

 

[otherclive]

I much preferred the bottle mounted regulator where if you had a spare it could be readily changed without undue complications. And as said above it reduced the length of hp pipework.