Combatting Damp

[BadgerBalls]

I have an Abbey Impression 520L 2004-2005 made by Swift of which I have owned for 2 years. I want to keep it in good order and have decided to coat the whole bottom with waxoyl as this protects the chassis as well as the wood. I will of course make sure I don't block any holes that should be there.
It is in perfect condition with no damp and I am going to put a cover on it this year for the first time.
I wonder if I should have the seams resealed as I don't know if this should be done at certain periods, if so what would I expect to pay to have it done.
The exterior boxes I assume I can reseal myself, maybe some idea of the type of sealer.
And lastly should I put dehumidifier traps inside through the winter of even purchase one. Are these small damp traps boxes reuseable or do they just us silica gel that you throw away.
Maybe a recommendation as to the best way to protect against damp and condensation.
regards

 

[Stevel]

You must be doing something right if there is no damp in your van, well done. Damp is created either through water ingress (bad seals etc) or condensation due to lack of air movement.
When I overwinter my van with a cover I leave all the windows on a night latch open all cupboards and drawers but leave the roof vents shut, touch wood no damp so far.
As for the seams, I believe that for the last several years the industry standard for sealants improved and the sealants now used should last for 6 or more years if undisturbed. I hesitate to hazard a guess as to how much it would cost to reseal, but it is a major time consuming (and therefore expensive) operation ~ removal of awning rails etc: as the old sealants have to be thoroughly removed before the application of new sealant.
I would get the service engineer to report on the state of the sealant when it next goes in for service, otherwise leave well alone as you aren't experiencing any problems.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hello Badger,

Prevention is always better than cure, and in the case of damp, keeping seals in good condition and ensuring good free air movement around the inside of the caravan by opening cupboards and airing cushions etc. are sensible proactive measures, and the passive measures are good external ventilation.

Condensation only arises when warm moisture laden air comes into contact with a colder surface. So when in long term storage and provided the caravan is well ventilated, condensation will not occur.

You may get some condensation in short term storage (a few days after arriving home) when any additional moisture from occupation in the wood and fabrics needs to dissipate. But when that has equalised with the ambient temperature and moisture levels your into long term storage conditions.

Dehumidifiers may be of some use during the first few days of storage, but beyond that they will serve no useful purpose, and electric dehumidifiers on long term storage will simply removing moisture from the air that passes through the caravan which is continually being replaced with fresh external air. all you do is end up attempting to dry out the UK!

 

[Joann]

The damp traps have calcuim carbonate in, this is not nice on the skin (or in ones lungs) some are reuseable, you just buy a bag of refill others have a membrane to make them non-spill and these are thrown away. Be careful not to breathe in the dust when refilling. the best ones I have had were scented and from a pound shop.

 

[graham_somersham]

And there was me thinking that Calcium Carbonate was chalk.......

 

[Joann]

sorry chloride not carbonate, it has been a really long tiring week, and it is 22 years since I did A level chemistry.

 

[DomDom]

all you do is end up attempting to dry out the UK!

LOL, that might take a while

More seriously, as suggested above, airflow is the key, nothing more fancy than that. Just as a light breeze will dry the washing, so a gentle flow of air through the van will keep it dry.