Hi everyone I am new to caravaning just bought a avondale Pennine and worried how to fill the heater to get started been told got to sterilize it before use make sure there is enough. Water in it before turning on but don't know we're. To start or what to use do you need a battery or does it run of just gas and electric any information appreciated. Thanks lee
Filling carver heater 2 after winter
- Thread starter lee886
- Start date
Parksy
Moderator
Hi Lee, welcome to the forum and congratulations on buying your Avondale
I'm not sure if you have any accessories with your caravan but the water system is filled from an Aquaroll via a submersible pump which should be with your caravan. Some pumps have a switch inside the caravan which activates them and others run automatically via microswitches when the taps inside the caravan are turned on. Fill the Aquaroll, connect the pump and turn on the hot tap which will automatically fill the boiler. Air will be expelled from the tap until the boiler and system are full when water will run from the tap. Connect the caravan ehu (electric hook up) and look for the water heater switch when the boiler is full to heat the water.
I'm not sure if you have any accessories with your caravan but the water system is filled from an Aquaroll via a submersible pump which should be with your caravan. Some pumps have a switch inside the caravan which activates them and others run automatically via microswitches when the taps inside the caravan are turned on. Fill the Aquaroll, connect the pump and turn on the hot tap which will automatically fill the boiler. Air will be expelled from the tap until the boiler and system are full when water will run from the tap. Connect the caravan ehu (electric hook up) and look for the water heater switch when the boiler is full to heat the water.
Parksy
Moderator
I forgot to add that to sterilise the system use sterilising fluid at the recommended dosage in an Aquaroll full of water. Fill the water system until no air is expelled from the taps and let the steriliser fluid stand in the system for half an hour and flush the system with clean cold water. I wouldn't recommend using your caravan system for drinking water even after it is sterilised because bacterial deposits can remain in the pipework, use a separate clean container such as a clear plastic bottle for drinks and beverages.
thanks parksy for the info thats helped me i think i will be ok with that i just need to check the aqua roll to check the pump is in it do i need a batttery for anything as when i bought it they said i needed a battery
Parksy
Moderator
You will need a leisure battery Lee, this is a batery which accepts repeated charge cycles and it runs the 12 volt systems in your caravan such as the water pump, electric toilet flush (if fitted), some of the interior lighting and the ignition for the fridge if used on gas. Prices can vary, depending on the capacity of the leisure battery which is measured in amp/hours and cheaper examples can be bought from places like Towsure
thanks for that just one more question does the battery recharge it self when plugged in to mains or do i have to do it with battery charger thanks lee
Mel
Moderator
Hi Lee. somewhere in you van there will be a little tap (ours is under the front sofa near the hot water tank. In our van it is yellow and looks like a plastic tag that you move from vertical to horizontal). This is for draining the hot water tank when you pack up to leave your pitch. Check it is in the closed position before trying to fill the water system otherwise you will just empty the aquaroll under your van. In our van, closed is horizontal. When you want to drain the water tank, disconnect the aquaroll, open the taps to the sinks in the van and then open the tap to the tank. You shouldn't tow with the hot water tank full.
Keep asking questions; there seems like a lot to learn at first but you will soon get the hang of it.
mel
Keep asking questions; there seems like a lot to learn at first but you will soon get the hang of it.
mel
thanks i will have a look for this like you say i will keep learning and will get there eventualy
Hello, Lee,
Welcome to the wolrd of caravanning. Don't be affraid to ask questions on this forum, there are many people with experience, who should be able to provide you information and tips.
You have been asking questions about the Carver Cascade 2 water heater, and I hope the replies you have already recived have helped, but I think it is clear you don't have the instruction book for the heater.
Gary (one of our regular contributors) runs a busness which has weath of specialised knowledge on Carver products. His web site
http://www.arcsystems.biz/
carries a number of instruction manuals. It would be wise to check these out.
Welcome to the wolrd of caravanning. Don't be affraid to ask questions on this forum, there are many people with experience, who should be able to provide you information and tips.
You have been asking questions about the Carver Cascade 2 water heater, and I hope the replies you have already recived have helped, but I think it is clear you don't have the instruction book for the heater.
Gary (one of our regular contributors) runs a busness which has weath of specialised knowledge on Carver products. His web site
http://www.arcsystems.biz/
carries a number of instruction manuals. It would be wise to check these out.
The last reply regards the later Truma water heater, to drain the Cacade there is a removal bung outside bottom left of the Cascade flue cowl. It would be helpful if you state the age of the van as this gives a guide to what battery charging is built in and if it's any good!
Below is my 'cut out and keep' overview of the Cacade, how it works and why it might not, it should answer your questions and some more you have not yet thought of!;
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which
when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V
mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter
depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you
can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control
panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on
the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps),
if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If
the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas
bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through
by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any
pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks
after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut
down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low
voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything
else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is
turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a
white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a
switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote
control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's
working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then
it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but
are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box
which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner
Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the
electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of
the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a
new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled
'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13
mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too
hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame
out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's
control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the
water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The
point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the
threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing
it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner
module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage
to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet
and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance
of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and
should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain
completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left
corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ¼ in
any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older
models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve
end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much
the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed
back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then
drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged
seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from
the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are
often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling
the system.
Below is my 'cut out and keep' overview of the Cacade, how it works and why it might not, it should answer your questions and some more you have not yet thought of!;
The Carver Cascade 2 is a 9 litre storage water heater, which
when running on gas will heat the water to 65deg c in about 45 minutes. On 240V
mains assuming it has this facility, the time can be somewhat longer or shorter
depending on the wattage (630w 3amp to 840w 5amp) of the element fitted, you
can use both gas and electric together for faster times.
To operate the gas there is a wall switch or a switch within a main control
panel, either way both have three lights green, amber and red. When switched on
the green lights, (water tank must be full, i.e. water coming from hot taps),
if it stays on after about 8 seconds then the gas has lit and all is well. If
the green is joined by the red then you may have a problem, but if the gas
bottle has just been changed then air in the pipes will have to be bled through
by repeating the above 2 or 3 times. Once lit, and it should light without any
pops and bangs, (this would indicate it needs a service), the heater looks
after itself and gives constant hot water. Any problems will cause it to shut
down safely and show the red light. Forget the amber light, it's to show low
voltage and won't light unless the voltage is so low the heater and everything
else packed up long since, though you may notice it 'flash' as the switch is
turned on or off.
The 240v immersion heater if fitted is totally separate, and lies behind a
white plastic box on the inboard end of the water tank. It is controlled by a
switch, often close by and at floor level, but again sometimes as part of a remote
control panel. The switch has a red light to show it's 'on', not that it's
working, this will be determined by the water getting hot. If it does not then
it may have 'tripped' Two types exist, early circa 1990 are non-re-settable but
are repairable. Later models have a Red button on the end of the plastic box
which is sometimes behind a little flap. Switch off mains, and press to reset.
Other faults concerning the gas side very often come down to the 'Burner
Module'. This handy little unit contains the burner, gas valve and all the
electronics which control it and is accessible from behind the cover outside of
the van. In the event things go wrong it's a 5 minute job to replace it, with a
new or serviced exchange unit. One other safety device is a wax filled
'fusible' plug, this again is behind the outer cover and shows itself as a 13
mm nut set in the fins above the burner. The wax will melt if things get too
hot allowing hot water from the tank to spray over the burner and put the flame
out. This will render things safe but will require a new module because it's
control circuitry is faulty. However given if the fuse 'blows' without the
water apparently getting to hot then replacing the plug will be sufficient. The
point to note here is that over time the wax in the plug degrades or the
threads leak, at the very least allowing water to seep onto the burner causing
it to rust and eventually will still require replacement of the whole burner
module.
Further problems that come to light in spring is the discovery of frost damage
to the water tank, the non-return valve which is part of the cold water inlet
and other plastic fittings. Failing to drain the heater when there is a chance
of temperatures dropping below freezing can be very expensive to repair and
should be avoided by removing the drain bung and allowing the heater to drain
completely. Later models have a valve above the drain hole in the top left
corner of the flue cowl, these have a 'toggle' showing that when turned a ¼ in
any direction will allow air into the tank and assist the draining. Older
models still have the valve but the flue cowl needs to be removed and the valve
end pulled to open it, in this case opening all taps in the van will do much
the same thing. It is most important that the drain bung is then only placed
back into the hole and not screwed in, any water left in the system can then
drain away.
Frost damage to the tank will be obvious by the leaking water from the damaged
seal, the damaged non-return valve quite often will prevent water coming from
the hot taps although the cold water flow will be fine. Other fittings are
often cracked by the pressure of the frozen water and will leak on refilling
the system.
Parksy
Moderator
The built in battery charger (or zig unit on older caravans) will charge the battery when the ehu is plugged in to the mainslee886 said:
Facebook
Twitter