Help advice/needed Save old beauty from damp death

Jun 13, 2017
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Hello,
Award prestige. single axle.

Problems
All timber is rotten
Cracked windows
Seals gone all around and none at all at rear.

Well i've ripped it pretty much all out now. A solid days work split over 4. Well i tried to keep the internals as best i could at least to use them as templates..

My intentions were as follows:

Strip EPS insulation and replace with 25mm XPS.
While stripping, I noticed one pannel of insulation had been replaced by what looked like the residue of a PU foam type adheive. However the damp seems to have attacked the foam and the pannel just full out when i touched it. Other panels are firmly in situ.. So....

Qu1) Which adhesive should i be using?

Something like this? http://www.thegluepeople.co.uk/v1/html/tradepur_ltm8.html

So walls and floor will be 25mm XPS. Currently between roof panel/ceiling and roof is the horrid fibre glass. Is there any reason this is used? Obviously it allows for breathability but its not as iff water vapour will get far given there's metal on the other side.. What about XPS insulation there also. Ok well i 'll confess i do have quite a bit of it hanging around.

So as I said its stripped. ok i could replace by treated timber but even that absorbs water and goes damp and musty.. My thought was to use something called EKOply and cut it into strips. aprox 19mmx25 (match the insulation)

Qu 2) Has anybody come across ekoply? Any thoughts on pros and cons of it? Ok its far more expensive than timber but it shoudl never rot..

While stripping i noticed that not one join was water tight.. none zilch. Clearly i have to clean strip and re seal all these joins.

So qu 3) What are the sealants to use?

i) where fibre moulded panel meets alu. Currently at the rear nothing is there at all.. it just flaps (well with a little force).. .
ii) Where alu meets alu. Some sections have 25cm huge overlaps
HP600 Strip Sealant
And I presume I use it both sides? And in between also?

iii) Around window/door seals?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-fix-all-high-tack-adhesive-sealant-white-290ml/64585
or whoudl i use soudaseal RV61?.

http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/WebRoot/BT/Shops/BT2955/492F/D729/300D/BF16/8D19/0A0A/33E8/79D1/RV61_0020_TDS.pdf
or SIKAFLEX 512

Wall and ceiling covering.
Not too sure here but budget and removing damp or permeability through to the skin. I came across this. 3mm PVC board.. Ok so not the prettiest but i'm presuming that somebody could wallpaper over.

http://www.gbplastics.co.uk/Products/Hygienic_Cladding_Panelling_wall_PVC_UPVC_plastic_ceiling/PA84-M3
I'll leave it there for now,.. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Wow what a job!

I can't comment on your scheme of work, but I will make the observation that replacing the wood frame with ekoply and its heaver weight will impact on your caravans weight and reduce its payload capacity. Basically the caravans MTPLM will remain unchanged, so be wary about changing things.
 
Oct 17, 2010
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The Ecoply would be great at forming shaped timber around windows etc. I think timber is preferred. You will be able to use Sikaflex 512 to fix everything, it's a very good adhesive. There is a thought that it should not be used for fixing awning rails and the like, a good quality silicon is better just in case you need to remove them later, it's up to you, I can vouch from personal experience how good 512 is after trying to remove some light fittings a previous owner of one of my vans, had stuck on with it. The choice is yours.
If you have to bye new window seals they will come with the sealant attached.
I used some 3mm marine ply on a repair I did once, You could try a stealer to see if they have a match. I believe Bailey Caravans used a similar wall board as you have suggested Don't rush, Good luck
 
Mar 14, 2005
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DaveA1 said:
The Ecoply would be great at forming shaped timber around windows etc. but as the Prof says timber is preferred. ....

No Dave, I didn't say wood is prefered! :eek:hmy:,
I was pointing out that manufacturers tended to use lighter weight wood for weight saving, (and probably cost). I am absolutely sure except for the possible weight disadvantage the ecoply will be very effective.
 
Apr 20, 2009
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champagnecharly said:
Hello,
Award prestige. single axle.

Problems
All timber is rotten
Cracked windows
Seals gone all around and none at all at rear.

Well i've ripped it pretty much all out now. A solid days work split over 4. Well i tried to keep the internals as best i could at least to use them as templates..

My intentions were as follows:

Strip EPS insulation and replace with 25mm XPS.
EPS performs as well if not better than XPS [as defined for the construction trade]Click here

Also retake the measurement of the batten and EPS I'm sure when I did a major repair it was 20mm all round, but that was on an Abbey but my current Fleetwood is the same

While stripping, I noticed one pannel of insulation had been replaced by what looked like the residue of a PU foam type adheive. However the damp seems to have attacked the foam and the pannel just full out when i touched it. Other panels are firmly in situ.. So....

Qu1) Which adhesive should i be using?

Something like this? http://www.thegluepeople.co.uk/v1/html/tradepur_ltm8.html Fine

So walls and floor will be 25mm XPS. Currently between roof panel/ceiling and roof is the horrid fibre glass. Is there any reason this is used? Obviously it allows for breathability but its not as iff water vapour will get far given there's metal on the other side.. What about XPS insulation there also. Ok well i 'll confess i do have quite a bit of it hanging around.

So as I said its stripped. ok i could replace by treated timber but even that absorbs water and goes damp and musty.. My thought was to use something called EKOply and cut it into strips. aprox 19mmx25 (match the insulation)

Qu 2) Has anybody come across ekoply? Any thoughts on pros and cons of it? Ok its far more expensive than timber but it shoudl never rot..
Dont know about the ECOply, I used treated timber and if it was cut or planed I soaked it over night in a solvent free treatment
While stripping i noticed that not one join was water tight.. none zilch. Clearly i have to clean strip and re seal all these joins.

So qu 3) What are the sealants to use?

i) where fibre moulded panel meets alu. Currently at the rear nothing is there at all.. it just flaps (well with a little force).. .
ii) Where alu meets alu. Some sections have 25cm huge overlaps
HP600 Strip Sealant
And I presume I use it both sides? And in between also?

iii) Around window/door seals?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-fix-all-high-tack-adhesive-sealant-white-290ml/64585
or whoudl i use soudaseal RV61?.

http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/WebRoot/BT/Shops/BT2955/492F/D729/300D/BF16/8D19/0A0A/33E8/79D1/RV61_0020_TDS.pdf
or SIKAFLEX 512 Yes or the Soudall one

Wall and ceiling covering.
Not too sure here but budget and removing damp or permeability through to the skin. I came across this. 3mm PVC board.. Ok so not the prettiest but i'm presuming that somebody could wallpaper over.
Contact O'Learys motor homes they have the board and polystyrene in stockO'Leary's

http://www.gbplastics.co.uk/Products/Hygienic_Cladding_Panelling_wall_PVC_UPVC_plastic_ceiling/PA84-M3
I'll leave it there for now,.. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Hope that helps, good luck with it .
 
Mar 13, 2007
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yeah that's a big job you have there. I have just completed a similar project on the old static I bought. I did use treated [high density wood] throughout and the thinner domestic [foil coated] insulation finished off with thin marine ply for interior boards. stickaflex 512 was used throughout as the adhesive. it will probably outlast me now. BUT it's a static so I didn't have to worry about the extra weight of the repair. and just stuck the internals back to the new walls with the glue [it's not going anywhere] on a tourer you have to watch any excess weight you put in there. and the internal fixing need to be fixed [but a little flexible at the same time] as the van twists and moves as it is being towed.
as you have stripped it all out you will be aware that vans are made inside out [frame/internals then outer skin] but as the skin is more than likely left in place you will have to devise a way to fix the internals once the boards are in place.
the materials you use is up to you. but i strongly advise you replace the outer trim and window seals with new as these are much easier to do than trying to clean and straighten the old ones. also have it weighed after completion to establish any difference you may have caused and deduct this from the payload so as to keep the whole van below the marked MTPLM.
 
Sep 5, 2016
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champagnecharly said:
Hello,
Award prestige. single axle.

Problems
All timber is rotten
Cracked windows
Seals gone all around and none at all at rear.

Well i've ripped it pretty much all out now. A solid days work split over 4. Well i tried to keep the internals as best i could at least to use them as templates..

My intentions were as follows:

Strip EPS insulation and replace with 25mm XPS.
While stripping, I noticed one pannel of insulation had been replaced by what looked like the residue of a PU foam type adheive. However the damp seems to have attacked the foam and the pannel just full out when i touched it. Other panels are firmly in situ.. So....

Qu1) Which adhesive should i be using?

Something like this? http://www.thegluepeople.co.uk/v1/html/tradepur_ltm8.html

So walls and floor will be 25mm XPS. Currently between roof panel/ceiling and roof is the horrid fibre glass. Is there any reason this is used? Obviously it allows for breathability but its not as iff water vapour will get far given there's metal on the other side.. What about XPS insulation there also. Ok well i 'll confess i do have quite a bit of it hanging around.

So as I said its stripped. ok i could replace by treated timber but even that absorbs water and goes damp and musty.. My thought was to use something called EKOply and cut it into strips. aprox 19mmx25 (match the insulation)

Qu 2) Has anybody come across ekoply? Any thoughts on pros and cons of it? Ok its far more expensive than timber but it shoudl never rot..

While stripping i noticed that not one join was water tight.. none zilch. Clearly i have to clean strip and re seal all these joins.

So qu 3) What are the sealants to use?

i) where fibre moulded panel meets alu. Currently at the rear nothing is there at all.. it just flaps (well with a little force).. .
ii) Where alu meets alu. Some sections have 25cm huge overlaps
HP600 Strip Sealant
And I presume I use it both sides? And in between also?

iii) Around window/door seals?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/soudal-fix-all-high-tack-adhesive-sealant-white-290ml/64585
or whoudl i use soudaseal RV61?.

http://www.caravan-components.co.uk/WebRoot/BT/Shops/BT2955/492F/D729/300D/BF16/8D19/0A0A/33E8/79D1/RV61_0020_TDS.pdf
or SIKAFLEX 512

Wall and ceiling covering.
Not too sure here but budget and removing damp or permeability through to the skin. I came across this. 3mm PVC board.. Ok so not the prettiest but i'm presuming that somebody could wallpaper over.

http://www.gbplastics.co.uk/Products/Hygienic_Cladding_Panelling_wall_PVC_UPVC_plastic_ceiling/PA84-M3
I'll leave it there for now,.. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Have a look at 'Wizard Caravan Damp repairs' loads of info on that web site
 

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