I can't insert the key in my Alko Secure Wheel Lock to remove it - HELP!!

Aug 31, 2008
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Hi folks

I've just been out to ready the 'van for a late winter break. The
'van has been sitting on our drive since we arrived home from the summe
hols at the end of August. The Alko Wheel Lock was fitted at that time.

However, when I came to remove the Alko Secure wheel lock I found that I couldn't insert the key.

The reason for this is that the small slots on the centre barrel and
the outer circle of the lock are correctly not aligned and so the key
cannot be inserted. i do not understand how this can have happened as
the slots must have been aligned to allow for the removal of the key
when I locked the lock on. The tyre cover was still in place and
there's no sign that anyone has interfered with the lock to try and
remove it.

I've tried lubricating the lock well with WD40 and the tried to align
the slots with a small scredriver but all to no avail - not surprisingy
really as that part of the lock is only designed to turn with the key
inserted!!!

Incidentally I cannot easily safely jack the 'van to see if moving
the wheel will help as the 'van is nose down on our sloping drive and so
I cannot hitch it up to prevent the 'van swinging on the other wheel
when jacking up.

Any suggestions would be gratefully received as otherwise we are well and truly stuck. HELP!!!

Tim
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hi Tim
When you say your van is nose down,did you wind the nose down on the jockey wheel after you had fitted the lock,we have had a similar problem although our lock is not Alko.I have noticed a slight movement on the jockey wheel is enough to make it difficult to remove the lock,perhaps if you raise the nose it might realign the slots.
 
Aug 31, 2008
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woodsieboy said:
Hi Tim
When you say your van is nose down,did you wind the nose down on the jockey wheel after you had fitted the lock,we have had a similar problem although our lock is not Alko.I have noticed a slight movement on the jockey wheel is enough to make it difficult to remove the lock,perhaps if you raise the nose it might realign the slots.
Thanks for posting Woodsie. I did actually lower the nose before putting on the lock but I wonder if the problem may have been caused by a slight movement in the 'van forward or down. I'll have another go at it tomorrow and try raising the nose a bit and/or moving the 'van FRACTIONALLY with the motor mover.
Here's hoping!!
Tim
 
Feb 3, 2008
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Big Tim said:
However, when I came to remove the Alko Secure wheel lock I found that I couldn't insert the key.

The reason for this is that the small slots on the centre barrel and
the outer circle of the lock are correctly not aligned and so the key
cannot be inserted.
My van is in storage so I can't check, but I believe the centre part is freely rotatable with the key removed. You just turn it with your thumb tip to line up. My lock has done this sometimes.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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I go along with woodlands camper align the slots as suggested, have you used the alko wheel clamp before,when you finally insert the key hold the outer rim of the barrell lock with your thumb nail when you push and turn the key, the barrell should slide out..
I smear the external casing of the barrell lock with light machine oil .
If you still have problems contact Alko direct, you have to have your own special registration code available, other wise they will not b e able to help you. Without the technical info you could be treated as a undesirable try to break into the lock.
When i lock the alko wheel clamp , I apply the caravan handbreak before i disengage the motomovers..thus making sure nothing has moved the wheel alignment
Royston
 
Aug 31, 2008
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I won't attempt to answer all the comments but I will try to explain myself a bit more clearly

(1) I have only one cylinder tumbler type security device on the 'van - it a single axle Senator Arizona

(2) I CANNOT insert the key as the two "slots - one the centre part
of the lock and the one the etched cylinderical ring, have to be which
to be aligned to insert/remove the key because there is a metal
protusion on the outside of the barrel of the key and a matching
protrusion inside the barrel of the key

NO KEY with these 2 protrusions would fit into the lock as it is at the moment!!!!

(3) I do not know how these 2 slots became misaligned as they must
have been aligned when I removed the key or it would not have come out. I have tried everything I can think of to re-align them them but the cylinder and outer ring turn together and so the misalignment stays the same.

That is why I am wondering if a slight movement of the 'van either
forward or up/down may have subsequently caused this misalignment after I
had removed the key. I have tried re-aligning the slots but without
success as that is what the key does when inserted!!!!

I hope that makes clearer!!!

I have been using this particular lock for nearly 8 years without problem and so I am fully aware of how it works.

It looks as though I will be speaking to Alko and/or Lowe & Fletcher tomorrow!!!

Tim
 
Jan 15, 2011
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Hi Tim I have got the barrel from my Alko Lock in my hand now and can see exactly what you are saying. The center portion is the bit that rotates and you are unable to get your key to this because of the locating lug on the outside of the key shaft that must line up to the key way on the inner rotating shaft is not in line.
I'm not sure how far your two key ways are out of line but mine only rotates a quarter turn to fully allow the locking mechanism to clear.
that is if both are say at twelve o'clock when locked then the inner key way would be at nine o'clock when open. By looking how far yours are apart you will know how close you are to the open position. Hopefully you may be very close.
if all else fails in your situation as a last resort I would be tempted to file off the outer lug of the key to at least allow the key access wether that would then allow you to manipulate the key to then mesh with the mechanism I don't know. Once the key is meshed with the inner pins/tumblers then you just need as I'm sure you know to press in about 5mm and rotate a quarter turn to the left.
the problem being if the locating lug that I have proposed filing off plays a part in the actual rotating process once the tumblers are depressed. But I suspect it is the inner part of the key that does this it looks more substantial. The outer lug I'm sure plays a part in gripping the mechanism when withdrawing it but if you can al least get it unlocked I'm sure you can then sort a method of getting it out.
sorry for the long winded reply but if you are able to make sense of it I hope it helps.
regards Brian
 
Jun 20, 2005
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Hi Tim

I had the same problem four years ago on our Senator Wyoming.

Get some "plus gas" or similar rust releasing agent. WD40 isn't that good.
Douse it well and leave overnight.

Gently, with a toffee hammer tap the sides of the lock. Then try your key again without forcing it to hard into the lock.
As suggested earlier try and hold the outer ring still with your nail. It should then move and hopefully off she comes.

If you do get it off lubricate liberally with 3 in 1 oil and wipe off the excess. Thereafter all should be well.

If you are near Cirencester, I'll give you a hand.
 
Aug 31, 2008
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brian_c said:
Hi Tim I have got the barrel from my Alko Lock in my hand now and can see exactly what you are saying. The center portion is the bit that rotates and you are unable to get your key to this because of the locating lug on the outside of the key shaft that must line up to the key way on the inner rotating shaft is not in line.
I'm not sure how far your two key ways are out of line but mine only rotates a quarter turn to fully allow the locking mechanism to clear.
that is if both are say at twelve o'clock when locked then the inner key way would be at nine o'clock when open. By looking how far yours are apart you will know how close you are to the open position. Hopefully you may be very close.
if all else fails in your situation as a last resort I would be tempted to file off the outer lug of the key to at least allow the key access wether that would then allow you to manipulate the key to then mesh with the mechanism I don't know. Once the key is meshed with the inner pins/tumblers then you just need as I'm sure you know to press in about 5mm and rotate a quarter turn to the left.
the problem being if the locating lug that I have proposed filing off plays a part in the actual rotating process once the tumblers are depressed. But I suspect it is the inner part of the key that does this it looks more substantial. The outer lug I'm sure plays a part in gripping the mechanism when withdrawing it but if you can al least get it unlocked I'm sure you can then sort a method of getting it out.
sorry for the long winded reply but if you are able to make sense of it I hope it helps.
regards Brian

A BIG THANKS to everyone who replied and tried to help.

I VERY PLEASED to say that the problem was solved this morning and so we should be off tomorrow as planned.

I have quoted Brian's post above as he gave the CORRECT answer although I waited until I had checked with Lowe and Fletcher this morning.

As soon as I explained the situation to the Les at L&F he said that:

(1) My lock had what was known as "clicked", ie, the locking mechanism had move further than it should have done

(2) It would have been caused by undue pressure on the lock casing
and WAS probably caused by the caravan moving slightly after the lock
was locked onto the wheel

(3) It would NOT have needed anyone to have tried to force the lock - there was no evidence of this

(4) There was only ONE way to solve this problem and that certainly
it could NOT be re-aligned by just moving it with a thumb, screwdriver
or anything else, as it was LOCKED into place

(5) As the lock was LOCKED in the misaligned position but that the
key could not be inserted because of misalignment there was only one
solution

(6) The solution was really a simple one, as previously suggested by Brian above,

(a) CAREFULLY file off the outer protrusion on the key

(b) Insert the filed key into the lock cylinder - it went in easily as there was no longer an outer protrusion

(c) Unlock the lock in the normal way with the filed key which
would now fit into the cylinder as it only had to align with the inner
slot

(d) However, although the cylinder was now unlocked it would not
pull out of the red body of the Alko Secure as that was the role of the
protrusion I had filed off

(e) To remove the lock cylinder I removed the filed key and inserted the other, unfiled, key
into the lock and this then pulled out the locking cylinder as normal

I have explained this in detail as I am sure that others may have this problem in the future.

It is, also, a salutory warning to ensure that the 'van CANNOT MOVE
AT ALL before putting on the Alko Secure lock - that includes I
understand raising or lowering the caravan nose.

Les at L&F did advise me to buy an new cylinder and keys but I
plan to use the current cylinder until that arrives as I now have a
"good" key and a modified one if the problem re-occurs.

Another warning is to make sure that you have registered your Alko
Secure lock as L&F would only advise me AFTER they had checked my
lock registration details on their database.Thanks again everyone we're very glad that we can now go away tomorrow as planned.

A BIG THANK YOU to Dustydog who offered to come round and help if I lived near him - that was much appreciated but as I actually live in St Helens, Merseyside that's rather a long way from Cirencester.
Tim
 
Feb 3, 2008
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Big Tim said:
I have explained this in detail as I am sure that others may have this problem in the future.

It is, also, a salutory warning to ensure that the 'van CANNOT MOVE
AT ALL before putting on the Alko Secure lock - that includes I
understand raising or lowering the caravan nose.
I cannot see, for the life of me, how the caravan moving can cause the problem you had. I believe it to be physically impossible, as the lock barrell is inside a very thick tube and NOT connected to the heavy duty bolt that screws into the security flange. The lock barrell plays no part in fixing the assembly to the caravan, it purely 'plugs' the hole to stop somebody removing the threaded security bolt (if they had the special wrench). Also the axis of the lock is not aligned to the axis of the wheel (about 100mm different) so the rotation of one cannot effect the rotation of the other. I will check when I next go to my van as I still believe the lock barrell freely rotates when the key is removed.
Your problem may have been a bit of grit on the lock barrell. Do you place it on the ground when assembling/disassembling or keep it clean inside the plastic transport case?
 
Aug 31, 2008
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Woodlands Camper said:
Big Tim said:
I have explained this in detail as I am sure that others may have this problem in the future.

It is, also, a salutory warning to ensure that the 'van CANNOT MOVE
AT ALL before putting on the Alko Secure lock - that includes I
understand raising or lowering the caravan nose.
I cannot see, for the life of me, how the caravan moving can cause the problem you had. I believe it to be physically impossible, as the lock barrell is inside a very thick tube and NOT connected to the heavy duty bolt that screws into the security flange. The lock barrell plays no part in fixing the assembly to the caravan, it purely 'plugs' the hole to stop somebody removing the threaded security bolt (if they had the special wrench). Also the axis of the lock is not aligned to the axis of the wheel (about 100mm different) so the rotation of one cannot effect the rotation of the other. I will check when I next go to my van as I still believe the lock barrell freely rotates when the key is removed.
Your problem may have been a bit of grit on the lock barrell. Do you place it on the ground when assembling/disassembling or keep it clean inside the plastic transport case?

It's up to you Woodland C but, with respect I think that the L&S tech guy has a better understanding of this problem as he makes the lock. He implied it was a frequent problem and ususally caused by undue pressure being put on the lock barrel. I asked if the problem could have been caused by a movement of the 'van after the lock was in place and he said that was VERY LIKELY the cause.
All I can say is that SOMETHING caused the key slots to move out of line. I don't see how your suggested grit in the barrel could have move the slots out of alignment and indeed there was NO problem undoing the lock once I was able to insert the filed-down key.
Yes, the lock barrel does rotate freely in the housing but so did the centre rod and so the slots would NOT,on this occasion, line up to allow me to insert the key. I spent several hours yesterday trying everything that I could think of to get the slots to align without success.
As to the care of the lock I have been using this particular lock, without having any similar problems, for about 8 years. It is kept in the video case and black bag, lubricated regularly and I ALWAYS use the rubber "boot" and the yellow screw cap.
Anyway enough sad from me - I've got a holiday to get ready for. I only bothered posting as I thought it might help a fellow 'vanner.
Regards
Tim
 
Feb 3, 2008
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Big Tim said:
It's up to you Woodland C but, with respect I think that the L&S tech guy has a better understanding of this problem as he makes the lock.
That's a bold statement to make.
There are several threads on this forum which contradict that statement. Quite often the 'expert' does not understand their own products.
A first-hand example - I had a problem with a new motor mover last year and contacted the manufacturer, who said the problem cannot happen. They sent out their mobile fitter who confirmed the problem existed. When the fitter phoned the design engineer from the caravan and said the problem existed the design engineer again stated the problem can't happen because of the design. So 2 people were at the van both saying the problem existed, because they had seen it with their own eyes, and the design person still saying it can't happen. I had to suggest the work-around to the fitter to mitigate the problem happening again, which he implemented. So excuse me for being sceptical that just because somebody has designed/made something then they know best how it should work. Sorry - not always the case. I have over 40 years experience in fault diagnosis of mechanical and electrical items (particularly safety systems), so have a large knowledge of 'thinking outside the box'.
 
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Great to read that you have at last sorted out your wheel clamp problem, I know they are a pain to fit, its always the first thing I do on arriving on site and when i leave, mainly incase i encounter problems such as you experienced .
Royston
 
Nov 11, 2009
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I had a similar problem with the LF lock fitted to a Bulldog Titan wheel clamp which initially became really tricky to lock/ unlock even though it was well lubricated. Eventually it jammed locked so I cut off the key lug just as you did. But my experience has now taught me that if the lock starts to become difficult and a good drenching off lub won't resolve it I buy a new lock. On my QD clamp I have never had a problem, whilst on the Titan clamp I am on my third lock. Yet the Titan never travels when touring and its never affected by van movement as before it is put on the van will have its nose wheel and legs all down. I think the barrel tumbler assembly is not strong enough to put the detent ball into its groove unless everything is spot on aligned. Still knowing its foibles is half the battle.
 
Jun 24, 2005
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With a twin axle 'van, the only way to get both locks to line up is to jack the caravan up then rotate the wheels and put the locks on. When the 'van is lowered, the wheels move and put pressure on the locks. If L and F's advice is correct then surely everyone with a T/A 'van will experience this problem at some time or other.
 
Nov 11, 2009
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PaulT said:
With a twin axle 'van, the only way to get both locks to line up is to jack the caravan up then rotate the wheels and put the locks on. When the 'van is lowered, the wheels move and put pressure on the locks. If L and F's advice is correct then surely everyone with a T/A 'van will experience this problem at some time or other.

If anyone dooes have a problem then a quick search on the internet will give tips on how to overcome it. That's where I got my DIY tips.
 
Aug 4, 2004
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Quite often we pull up the handbrake, fit the lock and then release the handbrake. On occasions the caravan does move. If this causes the lock to them jam, then I think that ALKO need to go back to the drawing board as the lock has an inherent fault under the Sale of Goods Act.
 
Nov 11, 2009
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But I have had similar problems with a barrel lock fitted to a Titan wheel clamp and when I fit the clamp all legs are down so the van cannot move. These locks are not particularly robust as can be seen by the internals when you dismantle one. So I think that if everything is not lined up when locking the tab can be deformed or broken. So now I am extra careful when fitting the Titan clamp and certainly if the lock doesn't fit smoothly I realign the clamp. Therecare videos showing how a barrel lock can be removed and a new key cut on site in less than 5 minutes even allowing for the presenters commentary. Removal can be less than 1 minute.
 
Jan 15, 2012
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If the lock is getting pressure on it when the wheel is lowered, then I would have thought the obvious thing to do is, fit the Al-Ko wheel lock into place, retain with the bolt, lower the wheel into place then fit the lock. There should be no pressure on the lock at this point.
 
Feb 3, 2008
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otherclive said:
But I have had similar problems with a barrel lock fitted to a Titan wheel clamp and when I fit the clamp all legs are down so the van cannot move. These locks are not particularly robust as can be seen by the internals when you dismantle one. So I think that if everything is not lined up when locking the tab can be deformed or broken. So now I am extra careful when fitting the Titan clamp and certainly if the lock doesn't fit smoothly I realign the clamp. Therecare videos showing how a barrel lock can be removed and a new key cut on site in less than 5 minutes even allowing for the presenters commentary. Removal can be less than 1 minute.
Looking at pictures on Google a Titan wheel clamp is totally different to an AlKo wheel lock. The Titan goes around the tyre and is not attached to the caravan chassis, whereas the AlKo goes through the spokes in the wheel and bolts to the plate on the chassis. I guess they would have different failure modes and effects.
 

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