Installing Tv on dry wall

[Buckman]

As there is a possibility that OH may be coming home from hospital within the next week or two, I need to change our bedroom around to accommodate her needs. This means hanging a 40" on a dry wall. Something I have never done as I am not a DIY person although I have all the necessary tools except a Metal, Voltage & Stud Detector. I doubt very much if there are any wires in the locality where the TV needs to be mounted as prior to us moving in there was a doorway in the area.

I have seen this video which makes it look a fairly simple job. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rtXZEmqM-Ec The video is obviously a promotional video for one to buy stuff from the company in question. The Tv is a 40" flat screen TV that is now 14 years old as a Tv that is heavier than current models.

Can someone advise on the simplest route to follow and the best dry wall mountings to use? I will probably only need a packet of about 4 or 6 studs to mount the TV. Thanks.

 

[otherclive]

I normally use the fasteners shown below. Fir a tv I would try and get some of the screws into a wooden stud.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/METAL-PLASTERBOARD-CAVITY-FIXINGS-SCREWS/dp/B07BWJ6DZ1/ref=asc_df_B07BWJ6DZ1?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989572564974&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589110950504&psc=1

 

[Buckman]

I normally use the fasteners shown below. Fir a tv I would try and get some of the screws into a wooden stud.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/METAL-PLASTERBOARD-CAVITY-FIXINGS-SCREWS/dp/B07BWJ6DZ1/ref=asc_df_B07BWJ6DZ1?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989572564974&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589110950504&psc=1

As said I am not into DIY. Is this a matter of screwing in the big screw thing and then using the smaller screw to hold the TV mounting bracket?

 

[otherclive]

As said I am not into DIY. Is this a matter of screwing in the big screw thing and then using the smaller screw to hold the TV mounting bracket?

Yes there will be instructions on the pack. If you feel more comfortable something like these are excellent to. Just one clearance hole required. There’s also toggle fasteners.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HEAVY-PLASTERBOARD-CAVITY-FIXINGS-ANCHORS/dp/B00H6FDT14/ref=asc_df_B00H6FDT14?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80401845130323&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001419576185&psc=1

Toggle or wing/butterfly fastener

 

[Jcloughie]

You first need to identify the construction of the wall. Is it interior or exterior.? Timber studded, metal studded, Paramount. triple plasterboard or plaster dots.

All would need different fittings and the fitting in any one wall may vary depending on where you want to fit it.

There are also other tricks which can be used to get around problems.

Sorry, not a simple answer.

John

 

[otherclive]

You first need to identify the construction of the wall. Is it interior or exterior.? Timber studded, metal studded, Paramount. triple plasterboard or plaster dots.

All would need different fittings and the fitting in any one wall may vary depending on where you want to fit it.

There are also other tricks which can be used to get around problems.

Sorry, not a simple answer.

John

Crikey in my last house and this one I did not realise the complexities of stud walls. All I have done is use a detector and gentle tapping with my knuckle. Luckily nothing has crashed downwards.

 

[Buckman]

Wall is interior between bathroom and bedroom. No idea of studs hence a Metal, Voltage & Stud Detector on list however I doubt very much if there are any studs in the area. The only concern is drilling only to find I a drilling into a batten. Tapping on the wall most of it sounds hollow, but one area the sound seems a bit muffled so guessing this where the batten may be?

 

[otherclive]

Wall is interior between bathroom and bedroom. No idea of studs hence a Metal, Voltage & Stud Detector on list however I doubt very much if there are any studs in the area. The only concern is drilling only to find I a drilling into a batten. Tapping on the wall most of it sounds hollow, but one area the sound seems a bit muffled so guessing this where the batten may be?

I generally worked on 16 inch horizontal distance between the studs, but both this and our last house were built in 1986/1976respectively. And all were interior walls not exterior.
FI battens are studs.

 

[Jcloughie]

Wall is interior between bathroom and bedroom. No idea of studs hence a Metal, Voltage & Stud Detector on list however I doubt very much if there are any studs in the area. The only concern is drilling only to find I a drilling into a batten. Tapping on the wall most of it sounds hollow, but one area the sound seems a bit muffled so guessing this where the batten may be?

Sounds likely (but not definitely), it's a stud wall then. Try to determine its thickness at an opening. For a 40inch TV the bracket will be a frame like the one in your video. These give lots of opportunities for locating screws, and if you can screw into studs it will be far stronger than any of the cavity fixings.

Another way to find studs is to tap the wall and listen. Then try to punch a sharp tool through, or a nail or a screw. It will cause damage, but this is easily filled and will be behind the TV anyway. As OC said, they will be about 16 inches apart, so a good chance of fixing across two studs. But if that is not possible you could always use a combination of fixings. Screws directly into the stud, and cavity fixings as well.

Why do you think it would be bad to drill into a stud?


John

 

[Buckman]

Sounds likely (but not definitely), it's a stud wall then. Try to determine its thickness at an opening. For a 40inch TV the bracket will be a frame like the one in your video. These give lots of opportunities for locating screws, and if you can screw into studs it will be far stronger than any of the cavity fixings.

Another way to find studs is to tap the wall and listen. Then try to punch a sharp tool through, or a nail or a screw. It will cause damage, but this is easily filled and will be behind the TV anyway. As OC said, they will be about 16 inches apart, so a good chance of fixing across two studs. But if that is not possible you could always use a combination of fixings. Screws directly into the stud, and cavity fixings as well.

Why do you think it would be bad to drill into a stud?


John

I was thinking the batten or stud was the framework onto which the outer panel (wall) was fixed

 

[otherclive]

I was thinking the batten or stud was the framework onto which the outer panel (wall) was fixed

The stud is what you are referring to as batten. It’s the framework inside which as you say the plasterboard is fixed to. With your stud detector and careful tapping you can determine their position. As John says then poke a sharp Bradall, or small diameter drill through so you can hopefully then put woodscrew(s) to support your bracket although you may have to use some plasterboard fastenings as well.

 

[Jcloughie]

I was thinking the batten or stud was the framework onto which the outer panel (wall) was fixed

Think of it more as the studs and noggins and possibly braces are the wall. The plasterboard is the surface covering. Therefore, fixing directly to the studs through the plasterboard is the ideal for maximum strength.

John

 

[otherclive]

This may help understand aspects of the internal wall construction

Do Stud Walls Need Noggins? - What Blueprint

Stud walls are a common staple in any home. The prominent members that hold up the wall are the studs and the noggings. The question now is if you can skip

whatblueprint.com

 

[Jcloughie]

This may help understand aspects of the internal wall construction

Do Stud Walls Need Noggins? - What Blueprint

Stud walls are a common staple in any home. The prominent members that hold up the wall are the studs and the noggings. The question now is if you can skip

whatblueprint.com

A poor report OC. noggins are required even if the wall is not load bearing, as is the case of the mass majority. As, and it says this itself, they help prevent buckling. Buckling can lead to a cracked and twisted surface. Also, noggins can be positioned to catch the ends of plasterboard sheets if necessary. The only reason to not put noggins in is to save a few bob. (Or if they are designed for use in a caravan ).

John

 

[otherclive]

A poor report OC. noggins are required even if the wall is not load bearing, as is the case of the mass majority. As, and it says this itself, they help prevent buckling. Buckling can lead to a cracked and twisted surface. Also, noggins can be positioned to catch the ends of plasterboard sheets if necessary. The only reason to not put noggins in is to save a few bob. (Or if they are designed for use in a caravan ).

John

Apologies I’m just a lowly marine engineer who nevertheless has managed over the years to mount heavy stuff on stud walls without any disasters. But I bow to your greater knowledge on things constructive 😂😂😂

 

[Hutch]

Apologies I’m just a lowly marine engineer who nevertheless has managed over the years to mount heavy stuff on stud walls without any disasters. But I bow to your greater knowledge on things constructive 😂😂😂

You have probably learned not to drill through the outer walls. 🤔

 

[Jcloughie]

Apologies I’m just a lowly marine engineer who nevertheless has managed over the years to mount heavy stuff on stud walls without any disasters. But I bow to your greater knowledge on things constructive 😂😂😂

Buckman is yet to establish that it is a studded wall.

John

 

[otherclive]

Buckman is yet to establish that it is a studded wall.

John

From your #5 describing the several types of wall I really don’t know how he will determine what type of wall he has, as when they are covered in plaster, wallpaper or paint it can’t be that easy to determine, other than block or dry. I do note however that the report I posted at # 13 does in fact recommend in its Devon paragraph ( in bold) that “noggins” be fitted if it’s a load bearing wall. Let us hope then that Buckman finds a few noggins to go with his studs. Or better still some thermalite or breeze blocks. 🤣🤣🤣

 

[Buckman]

The first time I came across dry walls was in the UK as we never had them. All our interior walls were brick. Over the years the only things we have hung on dry walls is pictures and nothing heavy. The TV in the lounge is mounted on an outer brick wall so no issue there.

 

[otherclive]

The first time I came across dry walls was in the UK as we never had them. All our interior walls were brick. Over the years the only things we have hung on dry walls is pictures and nothing heavy. The TV in the lounge is mounted on an outer brick wall so no issue there.

My house in Ottawa was all dry walls. In those days referred to as timber frame construction. So no alternative but to use specialist fixings.

 

[Jcloughie]

From your #5 describing the several types of wall I really don’t know how he will determine what type of wall he has, as when they are covered in plaster, wallpaper or paint it can’t be that easy to determine, other than block or dry. I do note however that the report I posted at # 13 does in fact recommend in its Devon paragraph ( in bold) that “noggins” be fitted if it’s a load bearing wall. Let us hope then that Buckman finds a few noggins to go with his studs. Or better still some thermalite or breeze blocks. 🤣🤣🤣

It is not easy to determine the wall type. However, if he knows that not all contain studs, He won’t be searching for one forever. Sometimes these walls are straight forward, but not always. We can also be misled by biased advise, eg, Buckmans YouTube video. It shows the use of good, though expensive, fittings. But it misses the far stronger solution of fixing to the studs. (Perhaps that was mentioned, I did not have the volume turned up).

John

 

[otherclive]

It is not easy to determine the wall type. However, if he knows that not all contain studs, He won’t be searching for one forever. Sometimes these walls are straight forward, but not always. We can also be misled by biased advise, eg, Buckmans YouTube video. It shows the use of good, though expensive, fittings. But it misses the far stronger solution of fixing to the studs. (Perhaps that was mentioned, I did not have the volume turned up).

John

Both of us have advised fastening to a stud if one is around where Buckman wants the tv located. I think he will be okay as he has the right idea.

 

[Dustydog]

I have used these with great success. You need the special pulling tool, cheap which compresses the umbrella section. A 46” plasma tv, v heavy, has safely been on a stud wall for ten years. You must use the correct drill . I tend to go 1/2 mm smaller diameter than recommended..looking at the bracket try and use a fastener every 3”. It’s all about spreading the load. What sort of bracket are you using?

Easyfix Hollow Wall Anchors 8-16mm M5 x 52mm 10 Pack - Screwfix

Order online at Screwfix.com. Provides permanent threaded anchor in cavity walls. For use with setting tool. FREE next day delivery available, free collection in 1 minute.

www.screwfix.com

 

[Sam Vimes]

Are you sure its a dry wall construction? Sometimes plasterboard is glued onto block work as a liner before skimming with plaster. If tapped it will sound hollow like a dry wall.

However, if its a plasterboard drywall construction, which is what I have, then using either of the fixings mentioned earlier will do.

I have two cabinets mounted on the wall using just two screwson each as mentioned in post #2. The cabinets are much heavier than a flat screen TV of 43" which is all we have go by.

I've used the toggle bolts but these can be tricky. First you need a hole in the wall large enough to push the toggle through, then you need a screw long enough to allow it to be pushed through and still have enough on the room side to take the fixing. Also they don't always spring open or tighten properly.

If you have the standard TV mounting plate which I think takes 4 fixings then that's 4 toggle bolts to line up and push through the wall as you'll have to put the bolts on the plate first.

Personally I'd go for the screw fixings in post #2 but watch out for the screw length as these are not always long enough either if you have a thick mounting plate and don't overtighten as you can easily rotate the insert.

 

[Buckman]

Yes there will be instructions on the pack. If you feel more comfortable something like these are excellent to. Just one clearance hole required. There’s also toggle fasteners.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/HEAVY-PLASTERBOARD-CAVITY-FIXINGS-ANCHORS/dp/B00H6FDT14/ref=asc_df_B00H6FDT14?tag=bingshoppinga-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80401845130323&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001419576185&psc=1

Toggle or wing/butterfly fastener

View attachment 4027

I thought a stud was something metal and not something that is wood. If drilling into a stud surely you cannot use the fastener as above? Excuse my ignorance, but this is all new to me.