Levelling caravans

Mar 14, 2005
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Many sites in England have pitches which are not level - and side to side levelling is often a problem. Milenco are now importing a Dutch levelling device called a Lockloy. This slips under the tyre on the side which needs to be raised, and a winch separates the two parts of the device, to raise the wheel off the ground. The device is made of aluminium and is light to transport (unlike the existing Bulldog leveller). We've seen lots of Dutch caravanners with them, and have wanted to buy one for ages. Practical Caravan have a small 'article' with picture in the latest issue - and I now know what my partner will be getting for his birthday. No more heaving and shoving backward and forward with a series of blocks for us, just wind and hey-presto a level van!!!
 
Nov 6, 2005
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Who needs to heave anyway?

I stuck a small plastic spirit level just inside the front window so we can see what slope we're on. We then put a plastic wedge-type ramp behind the appropriate wheel and just reverse the outfit up the ramp to the required height, handbrake on, job done. Blocks under a second ramp, behind the first, cope very well when the slope is quite steep.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Thick as two short planks! thats what I use, two reativly thick short planks of wood. If one isn't enough just pile the second one on top, not let me down yet.

Cost?

Nothing, found the wood one day at work, cut the ends to form a slight slope and painted them using some leftover fencing paint.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Thick as two short planks! thats what I use, two reativly thick short planks of wood. If one isn't enough just pile the second one on top, not let me down yet.

Cost?

Nothing, found the wood one day at work, cut the ends to form a slight slope and painted them using some leftover fencing paint.
and forgot to spell check! serves me right!
 
Jan 2, 2006
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RogerL

Thats ok but if you reverse up the wedge you disengage your brakes and even if you apply the handbrake the van can still run forward,better to pull the van up the wedge which is also easier to control.
 
Nov 6, 2005
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tony - the action of the reversing mechanism within the brakes is exactly the reason why I reverse up the ramp.

If you pull up the ramp forwards and apply the handbrake, the caravan can run about a foot backwards before the spring pre-load re-applies the brake - this defeats the object of using the ramp!

In over 20 years of reversing up a ramp I've never had any problem.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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I would like to look at one of these units.

I can't see why the reverse mechanism should be working if the van has not been reversed in the first place but if it works for you Roger then it works for you .

I always drive up and chock the wheel as well as I leave the brake off for long stays.

The new Alko wheel clamp makes levelling more difficult and I am resorting to using a 3ft plank to give more length to align the clamp..The plank(could do with a length of decking !!) is heavier than a plastic wedge but as the Alko clamp doesn't weigh much it probably balances out overall.
 
Jan 2, 2006
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Far be it for me to disagree but I stand by my comment as does Watson if your van rolls back after pulling forward there must be a fault.I presume you wedge the wheel before unhooking.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Jeeves may find a pic but Google couldn't for me

I've seen it now in the mag and it doesn't look any different to ones that have been on the market for a while( Bulldog).

I would think that tre distortion could be a problem which is wht I got rid of one years ago
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Jeeves may find a pic but Google couldn't for me

I've seen it now in the mag and it doesn't look any different to ones that have been on the market for a while( Bulldog).

I would think that tre distortion could be a problem which is wht I got rid of one years ago
Spot the spelling mistakes !!!Oh for an edit facility
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Jeeves may find a pic but Google couldn't for me

I've seen it now in the mag and it doesn't look any different to ones that have been on the market for a while( Bulldog).

I would think that tre distortion could be a problem which is wht I got rid of one years ago
We've done all that - planks, blocks, specially made widgets, and wodgets of different thicknesses, reversing, chocking against resistance, forward onto wedges, backwards on to wedges, and even (on one particularly 'unlevel' site) resorted to jacking up and then stacking planks under the wheel. Believe me, I've seen these working - and they do, even on muddy fields. A rubber doormat placed strategically under the wheel before driving on, then the leveller on the top if necessary. I've decided they are more than worth the money!!!
 
Mar 14, 2005
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We've done all that - planks, blocks, specially made widgets, and wodgets of different thicknesses, reversing, chocking against resistance, forward onto wedges, backwards on to wedges, and even (on one particularly 'unlevel' site) resorted to jacking up and then stacking planks under the wheel. Believe me, I've seen these working - and they do, even on muddy fields. On the wettest site a rubber doormat can be placed strategically under the wheel before driving on, then the leveller slides on the top if necessary. I've decided they are more than worth the money - and as my partner has a bad back any sort of heaving and huffing is now out of the question.

The difference is the way the ratchet works, the way the device fits around the tyre, and together these prevent distortion much better than the Bulldog. When we first saw one on a French site, the couple next door to us (British) had a Bulldog, and we all got together to examine the difference. The Lockloy was much better, and weighed about a quarter of the Bulldog.
 
May 21, 2008
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I've seen the add too, and while i think it is a good idea, most of us have gotused to the plastic ramps.

I would have to buy two lifters as I've got a twin axle van.

At present, I back onto the pitch and go back 4 feet more than my final resting place, then lay out two ramps at the pitch of the van's axles in front of the low side. Then I just drive up and over the first ramp, then watching the strategically placed stick on spirit level on the front of the van, proceed forward until the van is level across the axles.

Finally after chocking the wheels and uncoupling, I level front to back on the jockey wheel.

I suffer from arthritis of the spine and tendonitis in both elbows and shoulders, so as you can imagine heavey lifting is out.

Instead I spend time developing easy ways of doing the grunting. Motorised aqua rolls next!!

Steve
 
Mar 14, 2005
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I've seen the add too, and while i think it is a good idea, most of us have gotused to the plastic ramps.

I would have to buy two lifters as I've got a twin axle van.

At present, I back onto the pitch and go back 4 feet more than my final resting place, then lay out two ramps at the pitch of the van's axles in front of the low side. Then I just drive up and over the first ramp, then watching the strategically placed stick on spirit level on the front of the van, proceed forward until the van is level across the axles.

Finally after chocking the wheels and uncoupling, I level front to back on the jockey wheel.

I suffer from arthritis of the spine and tendonitis in both elbows and shoulders, so as you can imagine heavey lifting is out.

Instead I spend time developing easy ways of doing the grunting. Motorised aqua rolls next!!

Steve
Where can I get one !!

My wife had an invalid buggy---really great for emptying the loo !!
 
Sep 25, 2005
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We had one for a number of years (different make but identical set up) but the problem was that on soft ground they would sink slightly and then were a bu**er to get off! After years of struggles we got the yellow ramps last year! Much easier to do!
 

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