Query re the Awning Rail Repair to the Elddis featured in the latest issue magazine.

Jun 7, 2012
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I've just read the article about repairing the damaged awning rail. With regard to the sealant used, the text refers to "filling" the inside of the rail with sealant prior to re-fixing and the picture shows a cartridge gun being used on the rail. Last autumn I removed the offside awning rail on my old Bailey Pageant to apply new sealant as I suspected I had a water leak. The inside face of the rail has longitudinal cavities (that's the only way I can describe them). After much deliberation I used the "W4" ribbon on a roll type sealant but I'm doubtful as to whether it is effective as I suspect that when I re-secured the rail to the van the sealant simply squeezed into the rail cavities and is not forming a good seal.. The picture and text in the article seem to indicate that the cavities should have been fully filled with a sealant from a gun prior to refixing the rail to the van.
Is that what was actually done and what type of sealant was used please?
I successfully replaced the awning rail sealant on my previous van ( a Musketeer) using the "W4" sealant but the inner face of the awning rail on that van was flat with small ribs and no cavities for the sealant to squeeze into.
 

Damian

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Mar 14, 2005
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The correct sealant/mastic to use is gun applied and can be either Bostick RV61, Soudall Fixall or Sikaflex 512.
Ribbon mastic is only good on flat surfaces as unless it is very warm when applied, it does not press into any ribs or cavities on the inner surface.
As with all sealers/mastics temperature on application is critical and none should be applied in temperatures less than 10 degrees C
 
Jun 7, 2012
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Thanks Damian.
Am I correct in thinking that whatever sealant/mastic is used it should be "gunned" into the inside of the rail to the point of overfilling so that when the rail is affixed to the van the sealant squeezes out of the edges of the rail.
With regard to the sealants you mentioned. I've used a different Sikaflex for a different purpose in the past and I'm impressed by the quality but is the 512 the one that sticks permanently like a glue?. In the past I have also had the following suggested: Carafax IDL99, Stikaflex, Tigerseal or Caravan 221. I would welcome observations/reviews of any or all of these alternatives as I've read varying opinions in various threads.
 

Damian

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It depends which side of the awning rail you are doing, if the side the awning fits into you need a bonding/setting mastic , if the side where nothing is attached, then IDL99 is adequate(but NOT recommended) as that is a non setting bedding mastic.
I have given you the industry makes used, others I cannot comment on as I do not know what qualities they have.

You need to apply enough to squeeze out as the rail is tightened, then tool off to a smooth finish.
 
Jun 7, 2012
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The awning rail in question is the forward half on the offside so I do not foresee attaching the awning to it. I interpret "bonding/setting" to mean that it adheres and cures so that subsequent removal of the rail would be extremely difficult if not impossible. I was able to remove the rail from the van relatively easily and the old sealant was still quite soft and malleable so I would not consider that sealant to be a setting sealant. Once I've resolved the problem of how to re-bed the offending section of awning rail I intend to repeat the process on the after half and the sealing strip above the windows so I want to get it right.
 

Damian

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The weakest part of an awning rail is where the screws attach it, it is this part which requires the most attention.
Most manufacturers use,or used, ordinary screws instead of stainless steel, which when they get wet rust, expand and create an opening for water to get in and rot the wood, and allow water ingress into the van.

Soft non setting mastic does , over time, become brittle and falls away, leaving gaps into which water gets, then into the van.
You should remove all old screws and when fitting the rail back use stainless steel screws and leave a seal of the new sealer around the screw head.

The infill strip is not a waterproof seal, it is simply a cosmetic finish strip.
As the van flexes quite a lot when being towed I would only use a bonding/sealing mastic to re seal an awning rail for a long lasting job.
 
Jun 7, 2012
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Thanks again Damian.
The original fixing screws did appear to be stainless steel as they had not rusted. I had taken the precaution of obtaining replacement screws but had to specify countersunk flat heads as opposed to countersunk half oval heads as they would have interfered with the fitting of the new infill strip. Unfortunately I neglected to ensure that there was a seal of sealer around each screw head when I re-fixed the rail. Whilst I had the old rail off I noticed that the edges of the roof panel were bent over the top edge of the side panel and secured with plain steel staples at about 6 ins.intervals and they were quite rusty. I made sure each was tapped firmly home then covered each of them with a piece of sealant prior to fitting the ribbon sealant but I don't know how effective that may have been..
 

Damian

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As far as the rusty staples (again a cheap way of securing the roof to the side) I hope you removed the rust and treated them with a rust stopper before refixing the rail, otherwise they will continue to rust, expand and create a pocket in the ribbon mastic, which will allow a potential ingress point where the staples pierce the metal into the wood.
 
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A very good observation which I'm ashamed to say I did not think of. That begs the question, would it be worth removing the old staples and replacing them with stainless steel staples (if such things exist) or stainless steel pan head screws?
 
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Thanks again Damian, helpful as ever.
I think that when the weather improves I'll get the van back on the drive and do the job properly this time.
 

Damian

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Quote " I think that when the weather improves "

Now that is one question that I have no answer for !!!!
smiley-wink.gif
 

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