Shower leaking and stuck in Germany - Help Appreciated

Jun 14, 2020
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Evening all,

I live in Germany with the family and we've just been away with a UK Swift Freestyle 6TD. Before we went I was doing my usual checks and noticed I had a leak from the shower tap. With the tap in the closed position and the pump running, water gushed out from underneath. I dismantled hoping for a quick fix. The second photo shows a green retaining peg on the underside of the tap where the 2 pipes insert that has failed. Under pressure when the pump is running, the 2 pipes are able to push past it and leak. Bit of a design flaw from my view as I can't run the pump even to use the kitchen taps. There seems to be no way to isolate it - any one know of any way to do this whilst I get a replacement or repair carried out?

Whilst the German dealers are good and can do a basic service they looked in horror when I presented the shower tap. Seems like German manufacturers do it a bit different connector-wise.

I've been onto the place I bought the van and had a quote for a replacement part but it's got a 6-week lead time. The picture on the part I've been quoted for (pic 4) seems to have connectors coming out from it, whereas with mine the male ends go into the tap. So either it isn't compatible or it means having to connect elsewhere (maybe under bathroom sink?)

anybody had any similar experience or can offer advice - would be much appreciated as options out here are very limited. And with lock down easing a bit better over here we are very keen to get out and use the van.

Many thanks in advance
 

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JTQ

May 7, 2005
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The "green" piece is no more than a "dowel" that locks the stems of the feed pipes in place, it serves no sealing function.

Replace it with a bit of round "stuff" of the same diameter.
At a push a dowel whittled from wood should do, pinch a partner's plastic knitting needle, or be otherwise inventive. If you use something that corrodes don't forget to replace it ASAP.
 
Jun 14, 2020
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The "green" piece is no more than a "dowel" that locks the stems of the feed pipes in place, it serves no sealing function.

Replace it with a bit of round "stuff" of the same diameter.
At a push a dowel whittled from wood should do, pinch a partner's plastic knitting needle, or be otherwise inventive. If you use something that corrodes don't forget to replace it ASAP.
I wish it was that simple. Firstly, it's not round. The green dowel you refer to has a grooved profile that matches the diameter of the o-ring and mates perfectly with the pipe connector to ensure the fit remains robust enough to keep them in place when the system is under pressure and the pump running. I tried gluing the pieces in place but it didn't last more than a couple of cycles. Trust me, I've tried to be inventive and thus far to no avail. Thanks for your help though.
 
Apr 2, 2020
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What is the internal & external dimensions of the plastic ends? My thoughts are: for the external repair are; use a rubber hose pipe or pipe from a car heater matrix. If you link the hot & cold together and tighten with jubilee clips that will work. Don't worry about joining the hot & cold together, this will stop the leak. If you are worried you can seal the ends of each hose by bending it double & holding it tight using another jubilee clip on each. That way you will be isolating each pipe individually, but it will take more time and effort.
 
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Oct 8, 2006
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It looks to me as though the rubber O-ring seals may be a bit tired. See if you can get something new that is about the same size (O-rings do tend to be standard sizes) and fit them in place of the existing, then try it again.
 
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JTQ

May 7, 2005
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The "typical" connections used are shown in the picture.

The "O" ring is in the outer groove. The two connectors are fully inserted into the tap till the dowel pin can be pushed through the tap's dowel hole, "locking" the two connectors in place. The "O" rings seat deep in the tap body, clear of the dowel, and its hole.
I know of no system where the dowel interferes with the "O" ring seals, if your tap by design does, its new to me.

To seal the thing off to use other water services, this can be done with shallow tapered wooden plugs [ like a very shallow pencil point], pushed firmly into the feed pipe connectors. The water pressure is low, the plastic compliant enough, and area so small that given a shallow taper, they will both seal and stay put.
 

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The "typical" connections used are shown in the picture.

The "O" ring is in the outer groove. The two connectors are fully inserted into the tap till the dowel pin can be pushed through the tap's dowel hole, "locking" the two connectors in place. The "O" rings seat deep in the tap body, clear of the dowel, and its hole.
I know of no system where the dowel interferes with the "O" ring seals, if your tap by design does, its new to me.

To seal the thing off to use other water services, this can be done with shallow tapered wooden plugs [ like a very shallow pencil point], pushed firmly into the feed pipe connectors. The water pressure is l, the plastic compliant enough, and area so small that given a shallow taper, they will both seal and stay put.
That is really helpful. Thank you.
 

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