Whale water system problems

[Col3691]

Hello
I recently replaced the Whale Submersible Pump for my 2003 Coachman Amara because the old one died.
On the next trip out I connected up the new pump as usual but it wouldn't shut off after closing a tap. I tried adjusting the inline pressure switch as per a video on YouTube. The Pump Run light on the main console came on (as per the info in the video) but the pump still didn't switch off. It only switched off when I turned off the main pump switch.
As a result I bought a new inline pressure switch thinking it might also be faulty. I tried the pump again but it was still the same. I watched a Whale video to see how you're meant to fit the replacement pressure switch. Although the switch can only be fitted one way, I realised I hadn't done it per the video. The video says to disconnect the high pressure side first and quickly attach the new switch, then disconnect the low pressure side and finish connecting the switch. Then you're ready for carrying out any adjustment once connected to the water again.
Is it possible that by not connecting up the new pressure switch to the letter that I might have inadvertently created a problem and if so has anyone got a suggestion that would help resolve this issue.
Many thanks
Col

 

[ProfJohnL]

I would be surprised if your accidental mal fitting will have caused any permanent damage.

If a pump continues to run on a pressurised system, then it means it not been able to develop enough pressure in the pipe work to operate the pressure switch. Repeating the prescribed set up procedure should resolve the situation.
If it doesn't, then you need to check for a number of things
Does your external water barrel need filling?
Is the hot water heater filled ( constant flow of water through the hot taps)?
Does the battery need to be charged?
Are all the drain ports properly closed or are you dropping water anywhere including under the caravan?

Its easy to cause an airlock in pump when you change the water barrel. When changing the barrel, always turn off the pump at the main switch, unplug the pump from the outside fitting and remove it from the barrel. Refill the barrel, then drop the pump into the barrel before you plug the pump back into the caravan. This allows the water to flood the pump and expel any air before staring to pump.

 

[Minesaguinness]

I would be surprised if your accidental mal fitting will have caused any permanent damage.

If a pump continues to run on a pressurised system, then it means it not been able to develop enough pressure in the pipe work to operate the pressure switch. Repeating the prescribed set up procedure should resolve the situation.
If it doesn't, then you need to check for a number of things
Does your external water barrel need filling?
Is the hot water heater filled ( constant flow of water through the hot taps)?
Does the battery need to be charged?
Are all the drain ports properly closed or are you dropping water anywhere including under the caravan?

Its easy to cause an airlock in pump when you change the water barrel. When changing the barrel, always turn off the pump at the main switch, unplug the pump from the outside fitting and remove it from the barrel. Refill the barrel, then drop the pump into the barrel before you plug the pump back into the caravan. This allows the water to flood the pump and expel any air before staring to pump.

I have a very similar sounding issue with a Whale Water master fitted to a compass caravan. Mine is a pressure activated system (no micro switches on the taps). The problem I’ve had is that on shutting off a tap the pump continues to run excessively and will only stop when switched off at the control panel. The control panel can be switched straight back on and this does not cause the pump to restart. However turn on a tap, pump starts, turn off the tap, pump continues to run. Switch off at panel, cycle continues. You mentioned a few potential issues above which all make sense but no leaks, plenty of water in the barrel etc. The only other point you made that I tried to give consideration to is the pressure issue. I understand that what switches off the pump is an increase in water pressure caused by turning off the tap which consequently pushes against a diaphragm which in turn operates the micro switch. However, what doesn’t correlate with that is that when I shut off the tap and the pump continues to run, if this was because there was insufficient pressure in the system, why doesn’t the pump immediately restart when it’s turned back on at the panel? It doesn’t run again until I turn in a tap.
I fitted a new pump in April, I tried a new intelligent controller which resulted in the same symptoms but, belt and braces, I sent the original controller back to Whale who carried out a functional test and returned it ‘no fault found’. The only (Whale) component not changed at this time was the ‘Water in’ socket on the side of the van. I first of all replaced the diaphragm, one way valve and the ‘o’ rings within this interface again to no avail. I then changed the whole ‘Water in’ socket. This is where things did change. The system did calibrate straight away and operated as it should. All taps working, shower and toilet flushing ok, pump light turns off after 3-4 seconds each time. Cracked it I thought. There was one occasion that day where I thought ‘******’ it’s running on again. I’d turned off a tap and the pump seemed to continue 15-20 seconds, too long. I did a calibration again and all seemed well. We went away with the caravan and the water system again set up fine. Used it all day no problems. However…. I deliberately left the pump master switch on overnight so that we could still flush the loo. When I got up the next morning, turned on a tap and nothing. Although there was a healthy voltage at the ‘Water in’ terminals, the pump wasn’t running at all. I tested it from my car battery and still nothing. I can only think that at some point during the night, the pump might have started to run without me hearing it and ran to the point of destruction. The water barrel was still perfectly full. My caravan service engineer today could only scratch his head at at it and equally, when I spoke to Whale, they stated that “as you’ve changed all of the Whale side of things, it can only be an issue with the caravan. Doesn’t help me.
I’m currently waiting for a new water pump. I can manage for now by only turning on the water master switch as and when I want water then turn it off again, but I just want it sorted as it should be. Very frustrated and significantly out of pocket. Any thoughts are welcomed

 

[GUMPY]

I tried a new intelligent controller which resulted in the same symptoms

I binned my intelligent controller and went back to the old screw system, changed the whole inlet as you can't buy the bolt and locknut. Problem solved.
I do have to calibrate when I change pumps and when we are off grid as the voltage is not as high as when on EHU.

Oddly last week on the same site as it first failed 12 months ago I had to recalibrate and it took ages to do even after I bought a new pump😟

 

[Minesaguinness]

I did have a spell recently where I put in the manual adjuster screw and as you say it largely cures the problem. The only issue is finding the true ‘sweet spot’ where the pump doesn’t ‘knock’, otherwise I have to keep reaching under the seat to make minor adjustments. Not helped by the fact that whoever in the factory fitted the ‘water in’ interface onto the caravan, fitted it half way behind the water tank so it’s quite awkward to get to the screw with a driver, yet there was plenty of room if they’d moved it over just an inch or so. I did find when using the manual screw that it’s better to always open the taps fully so as to avoid ‘knocking’. It’s more prevalent if you try to run a tap slowly. Easy issue to remedy though.
It’s just frustrating that when the pump works with the IC Controller, it’s much better at delivering variable pressure smoothly and obviously has the other benefit of cutting off the pump if the barrel should run dry.
Thanks for your comment though

 

[Col3691]

I have a very similar sounding issue with a Whale Water master fitted to a compass caravan. Mine is a pressure activated system (no micro switches on the taps). The problem I’ve had is that on shutting off a tap the pump continues to run excessively and will only stop when switched off at the control panel. The control panel can be switched straight back on and this does not cause the pump to restart. However turn on a tap, pump starts, turn off the tap, pump continues to run. Switch off at panel, cycle continues. You mentioned a few potential issues above which all make sense but no leaks, plenty of water in the barrel etc. The only other point you made that I tried to give consideration to is the pressure issue. I understand that what switches off the pump is an increase in water pressure caused by turning off the tap which consequently pushes against a diaphragm which in turn operates the micro switch. However, what doesn’t correlate with that is that when I shut off the tap and the pump continues to run, if this was because there was insufficient pressure in the system, why doesn’t the pump immediately restart when it’s turned back on at the panel? It doesn’t run again until I turn in a tap.
I fitted a new pump in April, I tried a new intelligent controller which resulted in the same symptoms but, belt and braces, I sent the original controller back to Whale who carried out a functional test and returned it ‘no fault found’. The only (Whale) component not changed at this time was the ‘Water in’ socket on the side of the van. I first of all replaced the diaphragm, one way valve and the ‘o’ rings within this interface again to no avail. I then changed the whole ‘Water in’ socket. This is where things did change. The system did calibrate straight away and operated as it should. All taps working, shower and toilet flushing ok, pump light turns off after 3-4 seconds each time. Cracked it I thought. There was one occasion that day where I thought ‘******’ it’s running on again. I’d turned off a tap and the pump seemed to continue 15-20 seconds, too long. I did a calibration again and all seemed well. We went away with the caravan and the water system again set up fine. Used it all day no problems. However…. I deliberately left the pump master switch on overnight so that we could still flush the loo. When I got up the next morning, turned on a tap and nothing. Although there was a healthy voltage at the ‘Water in’ terminals, the pump wasn’t running at all. I tested it from my car battery and still nothing. I can only think that at some point during the night, the pump might have started to run without me hearing it and ran to the point of destruction. The water barrel was still perfectly full. My caravan service engineer today could only scratch his head at at it and equally, when I spoke to Whale, they stated that “as you’ve changed all of the Whale side of things, it can only be an issue with the caravan. Doesn’t help me.
I’m currently waiting for a new water pump. I can manage for now by only turning on the water master switch as and when I want water then turn it off again, but I just want it sorted as it should be. Very frustrated and significantly out of pocket. Any thoughts are welcomed

I had my caravan in for servicing last week and asked them if they could check the pump and water system. Turns out the reason the pump wouldn't turn off was operator error on my part. I'd inadvertently put the wires back on the pressure switch the wrong way around when I'd been checking it. This meant it was permanently active. I never thought to check the obvious first.
As for the pump, they tried their own which is the same as mine, a Whale EP1622, and theirs didn't leak. That's two I've had from Whale that have leaked. I managed to get a refund from Amazon and I'm buying one from another company, so keeping my fingers crossed.
I did asked this other company about whether I can get a refund if the one they send leaks and they said yes. They also raised the question of whether the leak could be caused by the water inlet housing where the pump plugs in. I never had leaking with the old pump so I doubt it's that.
I guess I'll see what happens next.

 

[Col3691]

If this video is anything to go by, then it's possible that there's a design flaw in these particular pumps. Mine is the EP1622 which fits the Truma Crystal system so has a different plug. The first one I ordered from Amazon leaked so I contacted Whale. They asked me to return it for inspection and said the spigot was the problem and sent me a replacement. The replacement also leaked so I got a refund.
I've just ordered another from a different supplier so I guess we'll see what happens next.

View: https://youtu.be/PI3sI4WYBZg?si=AlNO9gAIV_fbqqGj

 

[trevormonty]

If this video is anything to go by, then it's possible that there's a design flaw in these particular pumps. Mine is the EP1622 which fits the Truma Crystal system so has a different plug. The first one I ordered from Amazon leaked so I contacted Whale. They asked me to return it for inspection and said the spigot was the problem and sent me a replacement. The replacement also leaked so I got a refund.
I've just ordered another from a different supplier so I guess we'll see what happens next.

View: https://youtu.be/PI3sI4WYBZg?si=AlNO9gAIV_fbqqGj

I bought just pump for my internal tank. Water leaks out around where wires come out of pump. Wasn't problem as water sprayed around in tank but I don't think it was producing max pressure. Took it back to shop for replacement, the two others they tested did same thing so we assumed it was normal.
If used in Aquaroll like yours water could go up wire side of blue hose and straight into electrical fitting .

Thanks to your post I'm going back to Whale direct.