Charged up the battery & moved van with motor mover. Notice that panel, when master switched on, doesn't indicate any power & lights etc. don't work. Connect elec cable and all working ok. Motor mover worked as it is directly fed from the battery so the fault is from the battery to the vans 12 volt system. Fuses seem ok, what am I missing can you help?
Whats wrong with the electrics
- Thread starter mikeH
- Start date
Damian
Moderator
As Ray has said, look around the back of the battery box inside the van, there should be a 20amp fuse quite close to the box, maybe tucked away under it or behind it.
Thanks, it was the fuse but not the 20amp I now know is as you say in-line behind the 12v battery, it was the 15amp in the box. I will have to find out why the fuse went. However, here is a funny thing. To test the 12v feed, I removed the broken 15 amp battery fuse and replaced it with the 15amp fridge fuse. Why then was the fridge light working without a fuse, I don't understand? I'm sure someone will know.
Damian
Moderator
The fridge has a permanent 12v feed to supply the electronics in addition to the supply from the car which is only active when towing.
I am guessing the van you have is a Bailey if it has a 15a main fuse in the distribution box.
There have been numerous problems with the rating of this fuse and as per every other make of van that fuse should be 20a.
The main battery fuse near the battery should be 25a.
If you decide to leave the 15a fuse as 15a, make sure you always take a good supply of replacement fuses with you, you will need them,
I recommend changing the value to 20a and you wil not have a problem
I am guessing the van you have is a Bailey if it has a 15a main fuse in the distribution box.
There have been numerous problems with the rating of this fuse and as per every other make of van that fuse should be 20a.
The main battery fuse near the battery should be 25a.
If you decide to leave the 15a fuse as 15a, make sure you always take a good supply of replacement fuses with you, you will need them,
I recommend changing the value to 20a and you wil not have a problem
Thanks Damian, Didn't realise that the fridge had a direct feed from the 12 volt leisure battery. I always thought that that switching off the master cut all power to all the units. If therefore, one was to leave the fridge on battery feed it would still be working even if the master switch is off. I always thought that the fridge, in battery feed position, took power from the towing vehicle and when static from the leisure battery but the master switch would have to be on.
I can now see the sense to it, if the towing vehicle had to be removed when on journey the fridge would not start defrosting, it would take power from the leisure battery.
A little bit more knowledge is always useful'
thanks
I can now see the sense to it, if the towing vehicle had to be removed when on journey the fridge would not start defrosting, it would take power from the leisure battery.
A little bit more knowledge is always useful'
thanks
Damian
Moderator
Hi Mike,
Just to clarify what I said, the fridge has a 12v permanent supply only to feed the electronics which control the fridge, it does not draw 12v for the heater which provides the cooling, that is only live when connected to the car and engine running.
The fridge will not work to cool when stopped at a service area for example, but the electronics would still have a feed.
The 12v heater never draws power form the leisure battery.
Just to clarify what I said, the fridge has a 12v permanent supply only to feed the electronics which control the fridge, it does not draw 12v for the heater which provides the cooling, that is only live when connected to the car and engine running.
The fridge will not work to cool when stopped at a service area for example, but the electronics would still have a feed.
The 12v heater never draws power form the leisure battery.
Right, I've got it. The leisure battery feeds the electronics for switch-on etc. this would include the fridge light which I thought was strange as it was still lit when the 15 amp fuse had been removed.
Thanks for clarifying
regards
MikeH
Thanks for clarifying
regards
MikeH
Damian-Moderator said:
I have a German Burstner & could not understand why the caravan battery, after having been charged before a trip, would be almost flat after a short journey.
I contacted my dealer & was informed that Burstner had run the fridge direct from the van battery & expected it to be recharged whilst traveling, but a short journey would not be enough.
They told me that they would rewire the feed to the fridge F.O.C for me, so now it works perfect.
I am not certain if German vans use batteries, & just rely on e.h.u, as the picture of mine in the brochure does not have a battery box perhaps Lutz can come back on that one
Damian
Moderator
German vans , in fact all european made vans, do not have batteries as standard which is why on european make cars, specific wiring kits do not include the fridge or charging connections.
It is only the British made vans which have leisure batteries as standard
It is only the British made vans which have leisure batteries as standard
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