Just wondered What it means if a site states: Each hookup is limited to a 6A
load.
Steve
load.
Steve
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6 amp load limit?
- Thread starter steve56616
- Start date
Steve
It means that you can only draw 6 amps max. from the 240volt supply EHU.
If you use more than that it will trip the breaker in the supply box and you will have to get the warden to re-set the trip.
A 1Kw kettle will draw 4.5 amps so if you use it with anything else you could be in trouble
Dave
It means that you can only draw 6 amps max. from the 240volt supply EHU.
If you use more than that it will trip the breaker in the supply box and you will have to get the warden to re-set the trip.
A 1Kw kettle will draw 4.5 amps so if you use it with anything else you could be in trouble
Dave
It means the total power your van can take from the supply is 1.44 kw; based on UK 240 volt rated equipments. This includes things that might be on automatically like your van's battery charger , the fridge and if selected your water heater. Without your water heater on you ought to be able to use a 1kw kettle or a 1kw heater.
Some devices have misleading labelling, for example an "800 watt" microwave will take a lot more than 800 watts, because in this case its an "out-put" rating.
Other devices have high surge characteristics, typically those with big motors are in this group, so you might find your 6 amps will not start your 1 kw vacuum cleaner and will most likely trip the supply. Things with small motors where the motor only takes a percentage of the rated power; small 1kw hair dryer for example ought to be okay.
Some devices have misleading labelling, for example an "800 watt" microwave will take a lot more than 800 watts, because in this case its an "out-put" rating.
Other devices have high surge characteristics, typically those with big motors are in this group, so you might find your 6 amps will not start your 1 kw vacuum cleaner and will most likely trip the supply. Things with small motors where the motor only takes a percentage of the rated power; small 1kw hair dryer for example ought to be okay.
Oh that doesn't seem very much. So if I am heating the water I can't really boil a kettle or use anything else like the toaster. Mmmm I wonder if it is worth paying for electric hookup then?
No its not very much in terms of instantly available power, but its plenty to keep the frig going, the water being heated and importantly the battery being fully charged. This latter aspect allows you to "hammer" the 12-volt system the TV or radio and the lighting in the evening knowing that the steady full charge is recovering the battery. [And the mover will work when you leave]. If these are on 12 volts and the water heating is "off" it is also enough to have 1kw of electrical background heating. [That’s often enough heating for autumn evenings and the pre breakfast warm up]steve56616 said:
Low amperage EHU are very common on the continent, so even being just 3 amps and 6 being very widespread. It just needs a cultural change in how you use what’s available and supplement it with gas for the high short-term energy needs like boiling a kettle.
Er, actually not. The UK supply is still 240V. The EU imposed a state wide requirement of 230V, but then put a tolerance of initially +10/-6% which was eventually reduced to +/-6%. Thus everyone stays exactly as they were: 230V-6% covers 220V, and 230V +6% covers 240V.
It does beg the question as to why they imposed it in the first place? Uniformity again maybe?
It does beg the question as to why they imposed it in the first place? Uniformity again maybe?
G
Guest
Well my supply voltage in the workshop is consistently above 250v, last time i checked it was 251v but I've seen it over 253v regularly!
Anyway, setting the 'standard' voltage at 230v means design output in wattage will be reasonable at the lower and higher limits, if the old UK standard of 240v was still in use, then our appliences would not be as efficient on the continent.
IE, The Carver Fanmaster is rated at 230v and oddly at 1850W heat output, but that's actually a nice round 2000W at 240V, in this country then you get the full 2000W, or better in my case, but abroad 1850W or less.
Truma's equivalent Ultraheat is rated at 230V and 2000W, that's nearer 2250W here but what you pay for on the continent.
Little of this applies to amperage drawn then, you still draw the same amperage regardless of the available voltage, only the work done, (energy produced), varies
The good news about lowly 6A supplies is the available overload you can make use of , most 6A breakers take a controlled overload. the most common 6A'B' breaker can take up to 1.45 x 6amp for a useable time.
IE, you can for instance leave 1kw of heating on and still boil a 2kw kettle, that is, if you don't over fill the kettle so it boils and switches off before the overload time is exceeded.
It's a pain at first but you soon get used to it!
Anyway, setting the 'standard' voltage at 230v means design output in wattage will be reasonable at the lower and higher limits, if the old UK standard of 240v was still in use, then our appliences would not be as efficient on the continent.
IE, The Carver Fanmaster is rated at 230v and oddly at 1850W heat output, but that's actually a nice round 2000W at 240V, in this country then you get the full 2000W, or better in my case, but abroad 1850W or less.
Truma's equivalent Ultraheat is rated at 230V and 2000W, that's nearer 2250W here but what you pay for on the continent.
Little of this applies to amperage drawn then, you still draw the same amperage regardless of the available voltage, only the work done, (energy produced), varies
The good news about lowly 6A supplies is the available overload you can make use of , most 6A breakers take a controlled overload. the most common 6A'B' breaker can take up to 1.45 x 6amp for a useable time.
IE, you can for instance leave 1kw of heating on and still boil a 2kw kettle, that is, if you don't over fill the kettle so it boils and switches off before the overload time is exceeded.
It's a pain at first but you soon get used to it!
