Hi all, bought new 2009 Avondale Dart 525, I am wondering if I am setting the heating correct, it is only warm, I had a Sterling Eccles and the heating was very good any information appreciated thanks Geoff
Avondale heating
- Thread starter junieliz
- Start date
Damian
Moderator
Hi Damion, the heating in the van is Truma ultra heat and we have tried it on blown air. We haven't yet tried the gas fire which is a Trumatic S3002 space heater with blown air. Thank you for any info, Geoff
Damian
Moderator
Geoff, there has been a whole load of postings about the Ultraheat system and its lack heating .
Firstly to understand the system, the Ultraheat was added to the fire as a secondary form of heating, with the gas being the primary source, and the most effective.
The ultraheat can only really be used with any efectiveness with the fan sped set to low, any higher and the air passing over the elements cools them too quickly so minimal heat output.
Another aspect is the locationof the control switch, as it contains the thermostat for the fire, and if it is,, as in a lot of cases, set into an area close to the fire, like the side of a wardrobe, it is contained in an area where the heat from the fire cannot disperse as quickly as the rest of the van and keeps the fire switched off much longer than is wanted by the occupier.
The solution is to have a remote thermostat fitted alongside th egas thermostat at the base of the fire.
Firstly to understand the system, the Ultraheat was added to the fire as a secondary form of heating, with the gas being the primary source, and the most effective.
The ultraheat can only really be used with any efectiveness with the fan sped set to low, any higher and the air passing over the elements cools them too quickly so minimal heat output.
Another aspect is the locationof the control switch, as it contains the thermostat for the fire, and if it is,, as in a lot of cases, set into an area close to the fire, like the side of a wardrobe, it is contained in an area where the heat from the fire cannot disperse as quickly as the rest of the van and keeps the fire switched off much longer than is wanted by the occupier.
The solution is to have a remote thermostat fitted alongside th egas thermostat at the base of the fire.
My thoughts are these;
The Ultraheat's wattage settings are there so you can make use of low amperage hookups, 500W for 6A, 1000W for 10A and 2000W for 16A hookups, their not there to adjust the temperature of the van.
The Ultralheat is thermostatically controlled, therefore the wattage used will simply mean the fire is heating for shorter or longer periods. Where the problems arise then is if the temperature control is not working correctly, this is often due to the heat from the elements directly affecting the sensor itself. This means the heat brings the temperature sensor up to that set on the dial and the elements switch off, you and the vans are still cold but the sensors toasty and takes forever to cool before switching the fire back on!!
Due to this and particularly overnight, it's become something of an urban myth to set it at 500w or 1000w, this or that number on the dial and fan speed setting. In truth what's happening is the available heat is not capable of reaching the set temperature so never switches off, it's a useful work around but not how it should work.
The real solution is to fit a 'remote' temperature sensor and attach it to the gas fires sensor, if a remote is already fitted, it to will usually react better if moved to this location.
I would suggest as a start and during the day, the wattage selected is as high as the hook up allows and then fan speed set to maximum on 'A'.
This provides the maximum heat if required and the fans speed will respond automatically to change in temperature, ie, fast when heat cycle is on and slow when heat is off.
After that you can fine tune to suit your own needs
Other problems concern the control board, the elements are switched on and off by relays and the contacts burn out particularly the 2kw relay.
The 12v for control also comes from this board and the transformer sometimes packs up for no apparent reason but possibly because of a mains voltage spike. Apart from no heat, you will lose the green light in the switch if this happens
Lastly and also if no heat is forth coming, there are two safety thermostats, one at least of these has a habit of self destruction which stops all heating on electric!
The control switch itself seems generally reliable but the odd one does fail.
The numbers on the dial represent roughly 4degs and 9 is 32degs or thereabouts, this in theory makes 6 or 7 'normal' but it's what feels comfortable that matters not the number.
Another problem not caused by the heater itself is long runs of un-insulated blown air pipe running outside under the floor, insulating this will improve matters considerable.
Everything installed and working as it should, there is no good reason why the electric heating should not work very well and keep an even temperature to suit your needs.
However, it must be remembered the van needs to be warmed through thoroughly before the heating is turned down, while the vans cold it will constantly drag heat from the air and this needs constant topping up or the van will always feel draughty. It's most useful then to use gas as well for the first couple of hours and if the heating is off during the day to turn it back on at the first sign of a chill.
The Ultraheat's wattage settings are there so you can make use of low amperage hookups, 500W for 6A, 1000W for 10A and 2000W for 16A hookups, their not there to adjust the temperature of the van.
The Ultralheat is thermostatically controlled, therefore the wattage used will simply mean the fire is heating for shorter or longer periods. Where the problems arise then is if the temperature control is not working correctly, this is often due to the heat from the elements directly affecting the sensor itself. This means the heat brings the temperature sensor up to that set on the dial and the elements switch off, you and the vans are still cold but the sensors toasty and takes forever to cool before switching the fire back on!!
Due to this and particularly overnight, it's become something of an urban myth to set it at 500w or 1000w, this or that number on the dial and fan speed setting. In truth what's happening is the available heat is not capable of reaching the set temperature so never switches off, it's a useful work around but not how it should work.
The real solution is to fit a 'remote' temperature sensor and attach it to the gas fires sensor, if a remote is already fitted, it to will usually react better if moved to this location.
I would suggest as a start and during the day, the wattage selected is as high as the hook up allows and then fan speed set to maximum on 'A'.
This provides the maximum heat if required and the fans speed will respond automatically to change in temperature, ie, fast when heat cycle is on and slow when heat is off.
After that you can fine tune to suit your own needs
Other problems concern the control board, the elements are switched on and off by relays and the contacts burn out particularly the 2kw relay.
The 12v for control also comes from this board and the transformer sometimes packs up for no apparent reason but possibly because of a mains voltage spike. Apart from no heat, you will lose the green light in the switch if this happens
Lastly and also if no heat is forth coming, there are two safety thermostats, one at least of these has a habit of self destruction which stops all heating on electric!
The control switch itself seems generally reliable but the odd one does fail.
The numbers on the dial represent roughly 4degs and 9 is 32degs or thereabouts, this in theory makes 6 or 7 'normal' but it's what feels comfortable that matters not the number.
Another problem not caused by the heater itself is long runs of un-insulated blown air pipe running outside under the floor, insulating this will improve matters considerable.
Everything installed and working as it should, there is no good reason why the electric heating should not work very well and keep an even temperature to suit your needs.
However, it must be remembered the van needs to be warmed through thoroughly before the heating is turned down, while the vans cold it will constantly drag heat from the air and this needs constant topping up or the van will always feel draughty. It's most useful then to use gas as well for the first couple of hours and if the heating is off during the day to turn it back on at the first sign of a chill.
Adding to Gary's post - we have found that when the weather is around freezing, if the voltage is low, electric only will not always keep up and a gas boost is required.
The remote thermostat (supplied by Gary) and attached to the gas thermostat, transforms the heating capability.
I still don't understand why there are 2 overheat thermostats (125 and 175 degrees). Soon after buying the 'van (when it was about 4 years old) both thermostats disintegrated. The 125 one has just gone again. Maybe it's the quality of it but how can I find a better quality equivalent? Tried RS Components but they only do a 120 which may be OK but how do I know if its better?
Mike
The remote thermostat (supplied by Gary) and attached to the gas thermostat, transforms the heating capability.
I still don't understand why there are 2 overheat thermostats (125 and 175 degrees). Soon after buying the 'van (when it was about 4 years old) both thermostats disintegrated. The 125 one has just gone again. Maybe it's the quality of it but how can I find a better quality equivalent? Tried RS Components but they only do a 120 which may be OK but how do I know if its better?
Mike
Excellent, interesting feeback.
I find the 500watt setting usefull for overnight heating at the start and finnish of the season, as gary says we set to 6/7.
We have the standard remote sensor set at locker height near the bay window.
I consider the fire safe to leave on while we are out, but only on convection mode.
With our van the fan mode is useless, due mainly to the long outside the van route.
We take a fan heater and set this up in the shower room, and use this on 1kw only.
I find the 500watt setting usefull for overnight heating at the start and finnish of the season, as gary says we set to 6/7.
We have the standard remote sensor set at locker height near the bay window.
I consider the fire safe to leave on while we are out, but only on convection mode.
With our van the fan mode is useless, due mainly to the long outside the van route.
We take a fan heater and set this up in the shower room, and use this on 1kw only.
Hi,
also bought this van at nec last year. Have just been away in it for a couple of nights to try it out. Found the heating 'cranks' up slowly at first but once it gets going it was great. The fan set to 'auto' only speeds up as the heater gets hotter so it seems that it is not working at first.
also bought this van at nec last year. Have just been away in it for a couple of nights to try it out. Found the heating 'cranks' up slowly at first but once it gets going it was great. The fan set to 'auto' only speeds up as the heater gets hotter so it seems that it is not working at first.
Facebook
Twitter