Bailey Pageant Heating Efficiency

Jun 11, 2005
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Hi,

we have a two yaer old Pageant Bordeaux which has a blown air heating system. The warm air pipes to the front lounge area have to pass under the door and are outside of the van. During a recent cold spell away I could not help but notice how much heat was lost to the outside air. Does anyone know of a suitable lightweight insulant that would not soak up moisture?

Other Clive
 
Mar 14, 2005
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OC

Do you have the black covering on the trunking?

We have the Oklahoma which is the same layout.

I have put an extra outlet in the botton of the wardrobe /cupboard so that the hottest air comes out across the door and warms any drafts coming under the door.

There is a lever on the Y junction on the back of the fire which can be used to redistribute heat between front and rear.

I appreciate that there is a heat loss but have not found it necessary to lag as I still need to turn the thermostat down !!

Thermostat/control resited to within arms length when seated!!
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hello Clive,

The typical blown air system (Carver/Truma) has been around for 30 odd years. They can be set up to cater for the majority of touring vans, and have been shown to improve the comfort levels significantly. Even though they were the standard kit for most caravan manufacturers, some caravan layouts exceed the practical limits for the Blown air systems.

The majority of the ducting used is approx 75mm diameter and is manufactured with a corrugated wall. This allows for easy bending and positioning within the confined spaces in a caravan. But corrugations also present quite a rough internal surface that produces significant drag that impedes the airflow through the duct.

The practical outcome of this is that the longest duct run should not exceed about 3M to 4M as the drag will reduce airflow to just a warm waft, rather than breeze or stronger.

There are other factors that also increase the ducts drag. Each 90-degree bend has the effect of adding the equivalent of about 0.5M length of duct, so the maximum length of duct that is effective is usually less than 3M.

Some manufactures prefer to use the under floor option. In some cases there is no alternative, but in some, there is an internal route, but it may be more complicated to fit, or use more parts.

Where the duct is taken under the floor, it should be sheathed in a second skin, which offers water protection, and some additional thermal insulation.

There is of course nothing wrong in looking to increase the insulation under the van, but it may be worth looking to see if there is a viable internal route.

Technically, although the surface of the duct may appear to be quite hot, the amount of heat actually lost through the walls is a small proportion of the total heat transfer by the air through the duct. I do concede that any heat loss should be avoided if possible.
 
Jun 11, 2005
391
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Hello Clive,

The typical blown air system (Carver/Truma) has been around for 30 odd years. They can be set up to cater for the majority of touring vans, and have been shown to improve the comfort levels significantly. Even though they were the standard kit for most caravan manufacturers, some caravan layouts exceed the practical limits for the Blown air systems.

The majority of the ducting used is approx 75mm diameter and is manufactured with a corrugated wall. This allows for easy bending and positioning within the confined spaces in a caravan. But corrugations also present quite a rough internal surface that produces significant drag that impedes the airflow through the duct.

The practical outcome of this is that the longest duct run should not exceed about 3M to 4M as the drag will reduce airflow to just a warm waft, rather than breeze or stronger.

There are other factors that also increase the ducts drag. Each 90-degree bend has the effect of adding the equivalent of about 0.5M length of duct, so the maximum length of duct that is effective is usually less than 3M.

Some manufactures prefer to use the under floor option. In some cases there is no alternative, but in some, there is an internal route, but it may be more complicated to fit, or use more parts.

Where the duct is taken under the floor, it should be sheathed in a second skin, which offers water protection, and some additional thermal insulation.

There is of course nothing wrong in looking to increase the insulation under the van, but it may be worth looking to see if there is a viable internal route.

Technically, although the surface of the duct may appear to be quite hot, the amount of heat actually lost through the walls is a small proportion of the total heat transfer by the air through the duct. I do concede that any heat loss should be avoided if possible.
Hi,

thanks for the information. I have no complaint regarding the system's abilty to heat the van, my aim would be to ensure max efficiency and minmal power/gas input. I will look at the alternative routing option as well as a possible duct modifaction.

Cheers

Other Clive
 
Feb 17, 2007
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Hi,

thanks for the information. I have no complaint regarding the system's abilty to heat the van, my aim would be to ensure max efficiency and minmal power/gas input. I will look at the alternative routing option as well as a possible duct modifaction.

Cheers

Other Clive
Hi Clive,

We have a 2006 Bordeaux. Its our 2nd Bailey, the previous one being a 2004 model. I would have to say that we've found exactly the same as you - the ear blowers are red hot but the front 2 are cold. The previous bailey was ok so i'm sure this a pageant series 5 bordeaux thing!!

Carl
 

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