Battery tester suggestions please

[GeorgeandAde]

Hi.
Just wondering if members could recommend a reasonable priced battery tester for use with the car and caravan.
I don't want an "all singing and dancing"one,just to periodically check on the level of charge from time to time and determine the state of the battery.
Preferably under £25 would be ideal.

 

[Beehpee]

There are cheap multi meters on screwfix website, there are 2 under £25 but both don’t mention DC only AC, I’m surprised they don’t mention DC so be worth checking as most multi meters have AC & DC but should they not have DC there is definitely one for 29.99 that does AC & DC, if you get a multi meter to keep an eye on car and caravan battery then it will come in for other uses, testing fuses, torch batteries etc, might be worth checking tool station but I find screwfix to be usually cheaper.

BP

 

[otherclive]

There are cheap multi meters on screwfix website, there are 2 under £25 but both don’t mention DC only AC, I’m surprised they don’t mention DC so be worth checking as most multi meters have AC & DC but should they not have DC there is definitely one for 29.99 that does AC & DC, if you get a multi meter to keep an eye on car and caravan battery then it will come in for other uses, testing fuses, torch batteries etc, might be worth checking tool station but I find screwfix to be usually cheaper.

BP

Do you actually want a battery tester or a multimeter? If the latter there are many for sale at below £25. Clarke, Sealey etc and outlets such as Screwfix or Toolstation have a good choice.

 

[Damian]

A multimeter will tell you what the battery is showing as per the amount of voltage is concerned, it will not tell you the actual state of the battery, for that you would need a drop tester.

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Ummm.....its just basically a meter to tell me the current level of charge.e.g. when the caravan/car hasn't been used for a couple of weeks.
Want to firstly check the car as I'm now using company van for travel to and from work and(I know this cold weather may affect performance), sometimes feels a little sluggish to turn over.

 

[JTQ]

Ummm.....its just basically a meter to tell me the current level of charge.e.g. when the caravan/car hasn't been used for a couple of weeks.
Want to firstly check the car as I'm now using company van for travel to and from work and(I know this cold weather may affect performance), sometimes feels a little sluggish to turn over.

If you want a blunt but truthful answer, it is not possible at anything like your budget.
A crude garage drop tester is okay for a starter battery, or even a leisure battery that is no more than a relabelled starter battery, but it can easily wreck a quality deep cycling battery, that needs something far more sophisticated.
Using a volt meter, will only tell you how full the battery is, not how much "capacity" it now has; a tiring battery loses its capacity, not the ability to be full.

Put your car on a charger, ideally a smart charger, for say up to 36 hours, and if it lets you down within the following week, take it as "shot". There is no really simple check for your caravan's battery.

 

[otherclive]

Ummm.....its just basically a meter to tell me the current level of charge.e.g. when the caravan/car hasn't been used for a couple of weeks.
Want to firstly check the car as I'm now using company van for travel to and from work and(I know this cold weather may affect performance), sometimes feels a little sluggish to turn over.

You just require a digital multimeter that does DC and AC which will tell you the battery voltage. Knowing that will give you an indication of charge but not it’s ability to reliably deliver that charge. But it does help somewhat. There are charts that tell you no load volts versus battery percentage charge.

 

[Beehpee]

I keep a multi meter on the caravan and I regularly check the voltage using a multi meter, as said by other it’s not going to tell you how well it’s going to turn the engine over or run your mover but it’ll give you an idea at least of when it’s going to and as I mentioned there are plenty of other uses in the house and checking fuses in the house and on the caravan.

BP

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Thanks for your "straight to the point"replies......much appreciated to save me wasting money.
Looks like a multimeter would be the best option then.
Will have to do some googling to learn how to use one.
Never had one before.
Many thanks.

 

[Beehpee]

Easy to use once you have it, I can still remember my first one and wondering what it’s all for, it’ll take you a good 5 minutes to understand it.

BP

 

[Beehpee]

Imperative that it tests DC or you won’t be able to use it for your batteries, ideally get DC & AC then you’ll be doing all sorts, I’m not trying belittle you but just in case AC settings are for mains electric and DC is for batteries whether they are 12 volt car batteries or torch batteries or the battery in mover remotes etc.

BP

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Very good information everyone.
Many thanks👍

Just one last question......if I wanted to test car/caravan battery with a multimeter,can this be done whilst the battery is still connected to the car/caravan?

 

[otherclive]

Very good information everyone.
Many thanks👍

Just one last question......if I wanted to test car/caravan battery with a multimeter,can this be done whilst the battery is still connected to the car/caravan?

It can providing the PSU is switched off so you have no power sources which whilst low drain could affect the reading.

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Thanks otherclive.

 

[ProfJohnL]

Hi.
Just wondering if members could recommend a reasonable priced battery tester for use with the car and caravan.
I don't want an "all singing and dancing"one,just to periodically check on the level of charge from time to time and determine the state of the battery.
Preferably under £25 would be ideal.

Taking your question literally, "just to periodically check on the level of charge from time to time" the simplest (but imprecise) check is to measure the standing terminal voltage (battery left for an hour or so with nothing connected) A good 12V battery should have a voltage of at least 12.8V.

There are some very reasonably priced dc volt meters available.

This is an example of one that you might consider. It is designed to mounted in a panel.

Battery Capacity Tester & Voltage Meter with LCD Display Backlit, Waterproof 12V 24V 36V 48V Lead Acid Battery Indicator Voltmeter Monitor Detector for Car Vehicle : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Buy Battery Capacity Tester & Voltage Meter with LCD Display Backlit, Waterproof 12V 24V 36V 48V Lead Acid Battery Indicator Voltmeter Monitor Detector for Car Vehicle at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Thank you Prof JohnL.

My reason for asking if car battery could be tested whilst still connected was that (apparently) my Santa fe could possibly lose the radio code and (I'm not 100% sure) require reprogramming back into the ecu if disconnected.

 

[Beehpee]

Well regarding the meter the prof has recommended, I think this is completely the wrong thing, by all means go with the profs suggestion but that is not what your looking for, to me that looks like a meter that you fix to a wall or something then it’s permanently connected, what your looking for is called a multi meter, it has 2 leads often with a crocodile clip on the black earth so it will fit on one terminal and a probe usually on the red live probe, I can’t fathom what the prof is recommending that for.

BP

 

[JTQ]

Very good information everyone.
Many thanks👍

Just one last question......if I wanted to test car/caravan battery with a multimeter,can this be done whilst the battery is still connected to the car/caravan?

Can I point out you really will not be able with measuring voltage to test more than how full it is.
Don't confuse it being "full" with any guide to its present energy holding "capacity", its present Ah, as opposed to its labelled Ah.

A useful way of thinking about battery "capacity" and "full" is as a bucket holding water.
Say a new bucket filled to the top, full of water holds 15 litres of water.
Battery ageing is like somebody progressively putting bricks or sand into your bucket.
You can still fill it with water right to the top, but whilst still full, its water capacity is not as it was new out of the shop.
Read bucket full as a voltage of about 12.8 volts, when as full as it can be. You can always fill it, but the amount of Ah, think water is reduced.

Thank you Prof JohnL.

My reason for asking if car battery could be tested whilst still connected was that (apparently) my Santa fe could possibly lose the radio code and (I'm not 100% sure) require reprogramming back into the ecu if disconnected.

A light drain like your radio switched off though taking its code retention power, will make no practical difference to the reading or its validity.
For reasons a bit complex to detail here, to get a meaningful battery voltage reading, leave things alone, at least overnight from charging the battery till taking a voltage reading.

 

[Beehpee]

With a multi meter you can test the caravan or car battery with the caravan plugged into mains it will give you the voltage that is coming from the caravan charger, unhook it from mains and it gives the voltage just of the battery, same with the car, lift the bonnet and check battery you just get the battery voltage, start the engine and you’ll be able to see if your alternator is chucking enough voltage out to charge the battery and run the car.

BP

 

[otherclive]

Thank you Prof JohnL.

My reason for asking if car battery could be tested whilst still connected was that (apparently) my Santa fe could possibly lose the radio code and (I'm not 100% sure) require reprogramming back into the ecu if disconnected.

I thought that other owners had confirmed that your Santa Fe would not require radio recoding. If you aren’t certain then perhaps your cars owners manual should say or talk to a Hyundai dealership if you plan to change it yourself.

 

[Beehpee]

You charge the battery then take a reading, if the battery is fitted in the car or caravan and the next day or a couple of days later your voltage has significantly dropped it’s either the battery is faulty or the car or caravan is drawing power, if the voltage of the battery when it’s disconnected from caravan or car drops significantly over night then it’s a good indication the battery is had it, if the voltage doesn’t drop over a day or a few days when it’s off the car or caravan then you can be fairly confident the battery is at least half decent still, with a multi meter you can diagnose much more if there is a significant drop when it’s on the caravan.

BP

 

[Jcloughie]

To add to the advice given above. I find some approximation of condition can be determined like this.

Charge battery, leave to settle for a couple of hours, check voltage, should get about 12.8

Don't use the battery and check daily over time. If it holds the original reading that’s good, (but not conclusive).

If it drops, I believe that is indicative of an issue. A good battery will maintain for a few months.

Another thing I do, though not everyone likes Halfords. Is to take the battery for a free drop test. I have always found them honest and helpful and have not tried to push a new battery sale.

John

 

[ProfJohnL]

Well regarding the meter the prof has recommended, I think this is completely the wrong thing, by all means go with the profs suggestion but that is not what your looking for, to me that looks like a meter that you fix to a wall or something then it’s permanently connected, what your looking for is called a multi meter, it has 2 leads often with a crocodile clip on the black earth so it will fit on one terminal and a probe usually on the red live probe, I can’t fathom what the prof is recommending that for.

BP

To be fair the OP said "I don't want an "all singing and dancing" one." - and that is why I deliberately did not suggest a multi-meter. Multi-meters have many ranges, and if yo are not familiar with using them its all too easy to select the wrong range - which at best will not give you the reading you want, or worst it could damage the meter.

I personally agree, a multi-meter would certainly do the job except for teh point above.

Yes the model I suggested is designed to be panel mounted, and I did say that. I could have gone on to say it doesn't have to be, and it could be used as by its self, it would just need some longer leads with clips. Or it could be fitted in a handy small case to keep it portable.

But the prime advantages are its relatively cheap, its designed for DC battery voltages, and with only two wires its has smaller opportunity of being incorrectly connected. It does not require any additional batteries - so its always ready, provided the battery under test has some charge remaining. The display provides the percentage indication the OP was asking for as well as an easily read voltage reading. and it goes to a very lower power down setting automatically so it wont be a nuisance at night or drain the battery over long periods.

My thinking was cheap enough to get 2 and have one for both caravan and car. It might be advantageous to leave it permanently mounted in the caravan to monitor the battery.

Any way its the OP's choice, and he might choose to ignore either suggestion.

 

[Beehpee]

My sister had an occasion where her car was regularly having starting problem, a company that has been mentioned as not being liked by others, categorically stated her battery was faulty and sold her a new battery, result was car still faulty and the problem still existed, new alternator solved the problem and would have solved it without the new battery, that’s not to say they did it knowingly but quite a few staff seem to think they are experts when they aren’t.

BP

 

[GeorgeandAde]

Thank you for replies.

Otherclive,I just re-read the replies to my other thread re;changing battery on Santa fe.
I notice a few replies stated that they have changed theirs with no problems,but 1 or 2 commented that Halfords are able to maintain power(I think thats how it was put),to save the radio code.
Someone else mentioned that if it was a "stop/start" model,(mine is) it would have to be re-programmed to the ecu.

I must admit that I could possibly get away with doing it myself as most people replied, butI don't want to take that chance and be stuck on the drive.
Many thanks anyway.👍