Thanks for the reply John however, I’m a little confused on ”all vents are clear”. Which vents do you mean? Cheers.As caravans are ventilated, using a dehumidifier, whether powered or passive is, imho, useless.
Just ensure all vents are clear and that there is full circulation.
I also just used the sun blind on the roof lights, so that some heat might be generated if there was sun, but not too much, which would increase circulation.
John
Makes sense now. Thank you.Normally there are vents beneath the benches, these feed into the van via gaps at floor level. Also known as gas drops or something like that.
Also, roof lights are not totally sealed even when closed, and allow a trickle ventilation. There may well be more,
Without some sort of passive ventilation, the air would soon be unbreathable and dangerous.
John
Thanks for that. On a mission now to do the same😀I opened all cupboards, wardrobes, lockers etc plus opened door to bedroom and bathroom. Lifted the mattress and seats. The aim being to ensure good air circulation throughout caravan. Don’t clean surfaces with Pledge or similar as it encourages mould. Just wipe down with a detergent cleaner
In effect our van when not being used in winter looked a bit like an explosion in a furniture factory. But all our vans went through winter without any problems.
I have never put heat onto a caravan during winter apart from if we were away in it., and I never suffered any mould/mildew problems. I really do not see that heating it for a few hours then opening it to cold/humid air would give any benefit as very quickly the caravan would have atmospheric air entering again, and would come back down to ambient temperatures. Its inner air would then cycle as the outside air varies, and with the amount of ventilation in a caravan it would then exchange with external air.Worth running heater for few hours every month or so when you visit. Then vent van totally before leaving to flush out warm air carrying any moisture.
Anything that runs off solar and house battery will need a controller so equipment only operates when battery has good charge. Eg turn on if charge 90% and turn off when 50%.
As it happens just designed and built something like this for charging my ebike batteries when off grid. I've electronics background. For those with electronics back ground its simple hystersis circuit. Worth running separate battery voltage monitoring +&- wires directly to battery terminals. Means you don't need to worry about voltage drop over wires feeding controller.
Not sure if running a heater every now and then is a good idea. As the van cools down after using the heater, you may have a condensation issue.Worth running heater for few hours every month or so when you visit. Then vent van totally before leaving to flush out warm air carrying any moisture.
It's not quite that simple. Assuming you don't have a water ingress problem which is artificially raising water content inside the caravan, when in storage the entire caravan will assimilate to the level of humidity in the ambient air over a few days. That is as low you can realistically hope to get a caravans moisture level, and that should not be a problem long term.Heating van will cause moisture in furnishings to evaporate. Unless you flush air out before turning heating off it will just condensate back in van.
Many thanks for that. Great advice.It's not quite that simple. Assuming you don't have a water ingress problem which is artificially raising water content inside the caravan, when in storage the entire caravan will assimilate to the level of humidity in the ambient air over a few days. That is as low you can realistically hope to get a caravans moisture level, and that should not be a problem long term.
If you periodically introduce heat into the air, that may initially cause the air to absorb some moisture from the furnishings and fittings, but the warm air will also raises the temperature of the same fixtures and furnishings, which just like the air actually increases its own ability to absorb moisture, which it will do from the ambient air that ventilates the caravan. theis cyclic heating won't do harm to the caravan, but neither does it have any long term benefit.
Ultimately such warming for a few hours makes no overall difference to caravan nominal moisture content and it just uses energy and money.
I turned the caravan upside down earlier and could only find one Vent adjacent the Water Heater. Have now asked the dealership for advice on any other Vents. If there are, I’ll post on this thread. Thanks.Not sure if running a heater every now and then is a good idea. As the van cools down after using the heater, you may have a condensation issue.
Make sure caravan is well ventilated and none of the vent holes are closed up preventing circulation of air.
What van is it, and what year? Vans legally have to have minimum ventilation. Some have too much and can be draughty.I turned the caravan upside down earlier and could only find one Vent adjacent the Water Heater. Have now asked the dealership for advice on any other Vents. If there are, I’ll post on this thread. Thanks.
It’s a Bailey Phoenix 640+. 2022.What van is it, and what year? Vans legally have to have minimum ventilation. Some have too much and can be draughty.
John
I would be very much surprised if there wasn't a drop hole (covered with mesh) below the fridge and the cooker.I turned the caravan upside down earlier and could only find one Vent adjacent the Water Heater.
My little bailey has one under cooker, left and right seats. Maybe others I've not found. Don't forget fridge vents on side and also gas heaters flue. They are far from airtight.I would be very much surprised if there wasn't a drop hole (covered with mesh) below the fridge and the cooker.
Ahh the hidden ones. I take it they’re only visible from under the caravan?I would be very much surprised if there wasn't a drop hole (covered with mesh) below the fridge and the cooker.