Bio-Fuel

[Danny_5134221]

If anyone of you out there is using bio-fuel like me then you will be pleased to know that as of 30th June the HM Revenue and Customs have stated," A production thresold of 2,500 litres per annum or less producers will need not submit returns or pay duty ".

Therefore if you are filtering old cooking oil etc and using it for your own use then you need not declare or register with the authorities as long as you dont use more than 2,500 litres or 500 gallons in old money.

 

[Claire_5039866]

Hi just wondering, I am considering switching to bio diesel will this wear out my injectors or my fuel pump prematurely. I've worked for petro chem firms and they spend a lot of time and money on making your engine cleaner, last longer and do more mpg.What will happen to my engine if I take a trip to the chip shop and knock a batch up in my garage. Thanks Anthony

 

[rob_jax]

Anthony,

Depends what you mean by bio-diesel.

EN 590 is the current specification for petrochemical sourced ultra low Sulfur diesel, and the current bio-diesel initiative in Europe means that most EN 590 fuel will be a 5% bio-diesel blend real soon (it already is in many European countries).

This 5% blend is known as B5, the 10% as B10, and pure bio-diesel as B100

France and the French car manufacturers have approved B20 fuel.

An interesting side-effect of B5 is that the bio-diesel component has replaced most of the need to add the pump and injector lubricity improver needed for the 100% petroleum product. So even at this low level, you'll have no issues with hardware life.

The issues for someone wanting to run on home-brewed B100 are:

1. B100 is a very good solvent and will dissolve all the crud in the tank and fuel lines - you'll need to replace the fuel filter at least once in the first few weeks of change over

2. B100 has the ability to swell the rubber seals in the fuel system - which is why all the European car manufacturers have removed B100 fuel from their list of recommended fuels. If your car is outside warranty or has the right seals - then do as you please.

3. B100 (unlike petroleum diesel) attracts water - you need to use it up in a reasonable time period - water contmination is an issue.

4. B100 is prone to bacterial degradation - you need to use it up quickly - like 3 above - and if you plan to leave the car standing whilst flying off on vacation - fill the tank with petroleum diesel

5. The home-brew process needs a bit of chemistry skill - you need to make sure that the trans-estirification process (the reaction of veg oil with methanol and sodium hydroxide) is properly neutralised - you don't want spare acid or alkali in the engine - that will really screw with the injectors

Overall, particularly in the winter, you'd be better served with a 50:50 blend with pump diesel

Oh, and you need to take care over the disposal of the reaction by-products. The waste glycerol can be sold or burnt in some oil central heating systems, and the waste sodium methoxide needs professional disposal.

Robert (UK representative to CEN TC19 - motor vehicle fuels - test standards)

 

[Danny_5134221]

Anthony, to put in simple terms I use wvo, waste veg oil, and filter it through a 25 micron sock filter twice and pour it in the tank, during the winter I mix it 50/50 with diesel and now in the summer I am running it neat. As for pump and injector wear I have not noticed any problems, I have had the injectors out and they are fine, it starts and drives ok and returns the same mpg, you just get a strange smell out the back ! Be carefull with chip shop oil in can be very fatty and takes ages to filter.

Also I am using it in a Ford P100 pickup, so it does not have the latest generation diesel engine, I have heard the new common rail engines need a bit more chemistry involved and various things added, at the end of the day if my engine blows up I will fit another. For our towcar we have a Kia Sorento diesel and I would'nt dream of putting it in there.