blown air heating system

Mar 31, 2005
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Have just baught a new German van with same type of heating unit as my last English van but find that firstly it takes an age to get the air to blow luke warm and then it cuts out on the thermostat before the van is any where near warm enough. Part of the problem seems to be the long length of ducting that travels beneath the van, also the stat is sited in the wardrobe side directly over the heater. Has anyone else had these problems? if so how were they resolved?
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hello David.

If you trawl through these pages you will find several references to thermostat problems. The general solution is to have the thermostat repositioned, and there is an extension lead available to allow this. Contact your supplier to see if it can be done under warranty, failing that speak to the UK distributor for the heater (I assume it is a Truma) I must point out that the these fitting faults are the responsibility of the caravan supplier not the heater manufacurer.

The other issue is as you rightly say is the length of hot air ducting which is under the caravan. Some UK manufactures do a similar thing, but they take the trouble to insulate the duct to minimise heat loss.

As I recall, Truma do supply special over ducting which provides a waterproof jacket and some thermal insulation, It slipd over the normal hot air duct.

The other small possibility is to re-route the ducting around the interior of the caravan, but there is an additional problem that it may require a lot of addional bending to make it fit. As any aerodynaics expert will tell you each time you bend or extend a pipe you introduce more drag, so the air flow will be reduced. It is best to keep all ducts as short and as straight as possible, so the underfloor can sometimes be the only practical solution.
 
Feb 22, 2006
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Hello David,

Havng bought a Truma arm air system off Ebay and had it fitted toour Bessaarr Cai 500, WE HAVE A LONG UNDERVAN RUN WHICH COOLS THE AIR DOWn, go to your DIY store and buy a watr tank jacket, earte it down into pieces and cable tie it round the pipe ! not expensive and very efficient !!
 
Feb 28, 2006
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Hello Folks

Itoo was suffering the symtoms of on electric it turned of when it reached the desired temp ,but never came back on 'whilst i was at the N.E.C show i spoke to truma who told me it needed a remote sensor ,iasked him if this was a design fault and he kinda agreed suggesting i should contact the dealer,on my round the show i called at the swift stand and relayed what Truma had said and the swift guy said the dealer could fitt one and there would be no charge ,as it very simple to fit i contacted my dealer to see if he would send me the part so that i could fit it myself he popped it in the post today
 
Mar 14, 2005
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Hi,

You need a remote stat fitting. Takes about 30 mins.

You should be able to get it done under warranty.

Stuart (caravan engineer)
 
Mar 31, 2005
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David,

Is your problem with the heating on gas or electric?
Hi Rod The van eventually warms on gas but the electric is very poor, have taken the van back to the dealers and have since learnt of others with this van having similar problems, The dealer feels the main issues are the very long runs of ducting and the under floor run, also the heating ducts are pierced to allow warm air to escape under the lockers and in cupboard spaces. Dealer is discussing possible solutions to the problems, including fitting a remote stat. Thanks David
 
Oct 28, 2005
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David

I have EXACTLY the problem you describe on a German made van "designed for the British market". I understand we may not ID the make/model here for legal reasons but if yours begins with a "G" I'd like to know (mine does) because the OEM denies there's a widescale problem and I don't believe him anymore.

If so you will need to do everything that follows here to make it anywhere near acceptable, all of which (but only after considerable pressure) I have managed to have done under warranty at no cost:-

1. Fit remote sensor as described above (ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL).

2. Shorten, by re-routeing underfloor ducting, under and across front door (need to go in and out of chassis via existing apertures)

3. Properly insulate the run in 2 above. My workshop didnt do this on first attempt and it was useless for forward area as a result.

4. Cap off internal duct immediately after second butterfly valve in both front and rear.

5. Tape over any "bleed" perforations in retained sections

6. Adjust bias valve on rear of heater to give max flow to forward area.

One last request please. ***** like hell to the OEM and your dealer and post your findings on the Owner's website as individuals are being made to think they have an isolated problem. I now know of at least 4 others who have this problem and the van cannot be used on electric during cold months whereas companions' units are fine.
 
Mar 14, 2005
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On my 2005 Hobby Prestige all the underfloor ducting is contained in high impact, polystyrene trunking.

The underfloor ducting is confined to a section under 1 metre in length to pass under the entrance door.
 
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My van is from a German Company but is actually made in Belgium, that is the EU for you. It does not have a 'G' in the name. Anyway, the ducting is all inside the van and runs along the backside of the furniture. Seems to work well, although the thermostat is only on the heater itself. My van is not the posh version. I do howver like the vent in the bathroom that blows hot air...just where you need it??
 
Mar 31, 2005
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David

I have EXACTLY the problem you describe on a German made van "designed for the British market". I understand we may not ID the make/model here for legal reasons but if yours begins with a "G" I'd like to know (mine does) because the OEM denies there's a widescale problem and I don't believe him anymore.

If so you will need to do everything that follows here to make it anywhere near acceptable, all of which (but only after considerable pressure) I have managed to have done under warranty at no cost:-

1. Fit remote sensor as described above (ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL).

2. Shorten, by re-routeing underfloor ducting, under and across front door (need to go in and out of chassis via existing apertures)

3. Properly insulate the run in 2 above. My workshop didnt do this on first attempt and it was useless for forward area as a result.

4. Cap off internal duct immediately after second butterfly valve in both front and rear.

5. Tape over any "bleed" perforations in retained sections

6. Adjust bias valve on rear of heater to give max flow to forward area.

One last request please. ***** like hell to the OEM and your dealer and post your findings on the Owner's website as individuals are being made to think they have an isolated problem. I now know of at least 4 others who have this problem and the van cannot be used on electric during cold months whereas companions' units are fine.
Hi Malcolm

My van does begin with a G, sounds like we have exactly the same problems,at first glance the heating layout looked great, but in practice is just not effective. The dealer is consulting with the manufacturer to try and improve the situation but I too am being made to feel as this is an isolated problem-clearly it is not.

Thanks David
 

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