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Caravan brake on or off, when parked up

S

Sam Vimes

Moderator
Just curious about your thoughts on using the caravan brake when parked up, either at home or on site. Reason for asking is that during the rainy season, if we don't use the car for 3 or 4 days, the car brakes stick on a bit. Not much but you can hear and feel them 'clonk' when you drive off the first time.
 
Generally I leave it off on site unless there’s a slope but even then I tend to chock the wheels. In storage i leave the handbrake off to reduce the likelihood of shoes sticking on.
 
Thanks - I'm leaving it off for the that reason and the wheels are chocked anyway.

Just another thought - if you have a motor mover do you find that they are pretty well sealed against driving rain?
 
Sam Vimes said:
Thanks - I'm leaving it off for the that reason and the wheels are chocked anyway.

Just another thought - if you have a motor mover do you find that they are pretty well sealed against driving rain?
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Yes they have to be because of road spray. My Powrtouch classic has rubber gaiters which can perish/split. So they need checking periodically.
 
i leave it off when we are on site, unless there is a slope and same with the caravan storage to prevent the shoes sticking .
 
Hand brake ON when on site, but off when back in storage. As I can never know when we go out again.
 
Thanks for all the answers. What ever works for you is the best and I would think it's reasonably obvious that when on a slope you'd need it on.

Mine will certainly be off at home but on site will vary depending on conditions.
 
Sam Vimes said:
Thanks for all the answers. What ever works for you is the best and I would think it's reasonably obvious that when on a slope you'd need it on.

Mine will certainly be off at home but on site will vary depending on conditions.
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On site you have the steadies down and have probably fitted wheel lock so not much point in applying the handbrake. Just my opinion. LOL!
 
Not having put a handbrake on fully when on site is one cause I know for jambing up the likes of Al-KO Secure wheel locks.
The lack of the full potential of the handbrake can allow the van to ease against the wheel lock and that in turn can side load the lock's screwed bolt.
If the lock lozenge can't rock because of this, then I recommmend you use the mover to ease the loaded spoke off the lozenge, till it can rock on its clearances.
Together with the owner, I had a hell of a struggle helping someone who had no mover, get out of that predicament after his failed attempts had damaged the special profile socket that drives the bolt.
 
You can leave the handbrake off when stored although if it is in an exposed position it may be wort applying it in very windy conditions. If the legs are down and you have a wheel clamp on it will normally be safe but chocks would also help.
Winter wheels are probably the best bet if you can fit them and you should remember that in severe frost the brake pads can seize against the wheel so in those conditions brake off is best.
 
JTQ said:
Not having put a handbrake on fully when on site is one cause I know for jambing up the likes of Al-KO Secure wheel locks.
The lack of the full potential of the handbrake can allow the van to ease against the wheel lock and that in turn can side load the lock's screwed bolt.
If the lock lozenge can't rock then I recommmend you use the mover to ease the loaded spoke off the lozenge, till it can rock on its clearances.
Together with the owner, I had a hell of a struggle helping someone who had no mover get out of that predicament after his failed attempts had damaged the special profile socket that drives the bolt.
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One needs to apply the handbrake when lifting the side to fit the ALKO wheel lock. Apply handbrake, lift the side in question, then release the handbrake, fit wheel lock, apply handbrake again and lower side. You may notice that the wheel will still move however it should not jam up tight against the wheel spokes. Works for us.
 
JTQ said:
Not having put a handbrake on fully when on site is one cause I know for jambing up the likes of Al-KO Secure wheel locks.
The lack of the full potential of the handbrake can allow the van to ease against the wheel lock and that in turn can side load the lock's screwed bolt.
If the lock lozenge can't rock because of this, then I recommmend you use the mover to ease the loaded spoke off the lozenge, till it can rock on its clearances.
Together with the owner, I had a hell of a struggle helping someone who had no mover, get out of that predicament after his failed attempts had damaged the special profile socket that drives the bolt.
Click to expand...
I only use the Alko when in store or at home and being single axle don’t have to Jack it for fitting. But I leave the handbrake off and use chocks plus steadies.
 
When in storage we use the mover to put it on our pitch then the steadies go down next is the wheelclamp we use chocks but the handbrake is off .
 
How about virtually never using the handbrake? I use the motormover to move and park the van, then chock the wheels (on my sloping drive) then disengage the mover. I think I only use the handbrake when on a site.
 
Whether on site or in storage I generally chock on the downhill side, and handbrake off. I guess if I was on a severe slope I'd use the handbrake as well for extra security, but I rarely park on slopes like that!

I try to avoid using the corner steadies to prevent the caravan moving, as that's putting a load on the steady and its mountings in a direction that they probably weren't designed to take.
 
Handbrake off and wheels chocked, when on drive. Hand brake normally on, on site, especially if I've had to level the van. Use CLs.
 
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