Can anybody help .I have recently purchased a Bailey Pageant 200o which is fitted with a Carver Cascade Rapide G E water heater. I need to drain down . Can for the Winter and unfortunately the instruction book tells me what do but does not show any pictures of the parts{it says remove drain plug and turn fast drain 90 degrees with slotted screwdriver}. Can anybody help me. ?
Carver Cascade Rapide GE
- Thread starter Grumpytony
- Start date
Hello Tony,
You will find downloadable copies of most of the carver product instructions at
http://arcsystems.biz/
You will find downloadable copies of most of the carver product instructions at
http://arcsystems.biz/
Welcome to the forum 
Remove drain plug...............Drain is situated on the outside of the caravan wherever the water heater is fitted.
The heater will have a plastic gas vent cowl and in the bottom left hand corner will be the drain which is white and plastic the size of a 10p piece with a large slot to undo and remove.
Fast Drain........... found under the caravan usually underneath the water heater...... a short pipe will exit through the caravan floor.
Turn on taps inside the caravan so that the water system can breath allowing as much water as possible to drain.
Don't forget to drain toilet flush tank if fitted and run flush pump dry!
Remove drain plug...............Drain is situated on the outside of the caravan wherever the water heater is fitted.
The heater will have a plastic gas vent cowl and in the bottom left hand corner will be the drain which is white and plastic the size of a 10p piece with a large slot to undo and remove.
Fast Drain........... found under the caravan usually underneath the water heater...... a short pipe will exit through the caravan floor.
Turn on taps inside the caravan so that the water system can breath allowing as much water as possible to drain.
Don't forget to drain toilet flush tank if fitted and run flush pump dry!
Drain bung is bottom left corner of Cascades plastic flue cover outside on off side of van, quick drain valve is top left directly above it.
When drained replace drain bung in it's hole but do not screw in, the four prongs on the drain bung are there to grip the threads inside the hole and stop the bung falling out, also remember to shut the quick drain valve.
This way any remaining water has an escape route out so cannot build up and get back into the tank, QDV being shut now will ensure you don't find it pouring water outside next season when you can't understand why the tanks not filling up?!!
And on that subject, I don't bother with the QDV, I just open all the hot and cold taps which allows air into the tank just the same, this way I don't forget to open the taps because it's important these are left open over winter or they too may be damaged by frost
When drained replace drain bung in it's hole but do not screw in, the four prongs on the drain bung are there to grip the threads inside the hole and stop the bung falling out, also remember to shut the quick drain valve.
This way any remaining water has an escape route out so cannot build up and get back into the tank, QDV being shut now will ensure you don't find it pouring water outside next season when you can't understand why the tanks not filling up?!!
And on that subject, I don't bother with the QDV, I just open all the hot and cold taps which allows air into the tank just the same, this way I don't forget to open the taps because it's important these are left open over winter or they too may be damaged by frost
I think you will also find there is a filter on the panel. This needs to be removed as water can freeze inside it and damage the casing. We found out that the hard way.
Raywood said:
The Cascade does not contain a water filter. What Ray may be referring to is a Crystal Water filter which is a separate device associated with a submersible water pump. If you do have a Crystal water filter system, then the filter also needs to be removed to prevent damage for winter storage. You will need to replace the filter for the new season.
Never been happy with frost being the cause of mk2 filter housing cracking, not directly anyway.
I I see it yes there is a design weakness at the bottom of the threads in the housing, but to suggest frost is causing the water in the filter to expand and crack the housing at this weak point is to my mind wrong?
Simply the 'filter' is beyond the threads which are in the filters cap, it is also chocker block full of carbon granules which leaves very little space for water to lie, plus the whole filter is circular so any expansion is only length ways so only pushing outwardly on said threaded cap, however inboard end of filter is sealed by a felt pad which is more than capable of absorbing any expansion the little water present can be accountable for.
No, I think the problem has always been the filter is overtightened when fitted, something very easy to do trying to make it seal compressing the dry grippy rubber 'O' ring at the end of the threads. The plastic housing can cope in the summer when it's warm but when it gets cold it's more brittle and gives way under the strain, simple as that!
Solution is coat threads and 'o' ring with silicone grease or if not that, Olive oil, never Vaseline or indeed other cooking oils which can soak into and expand the rubber....and crack the housing!hmy:
And I might add, same applies to toilet holding tank rim seals or they swell, expand and leak!
I I see it yes there is a design weakness at the bottom of the threads in the housing, but to suggest frost is causing the water in the filter to expand and crack the housing at this weak point is to my mind wrong?
Simply the 'filter' is beyond the threads which are in the filters cap, it is also chocker block full of carbon granules which leaves very little space for water to lie, plus the whole filter is circular so any expansion is only length ways so only pushing outwardly on said threaded cap, however inboard end of filter is sealed by a felt pad which is more than capable of absorbing any expansion the little water present can be accountable for.
No, I think the problem has always been the filter is overtightened when fitted, something very easy to do trying to make it seal compressing the dry grippy rubber 'O' ring at the end of the threads. The plastic housing can cope in the summer when it's warm but when it gets cold it's more brittle and gives way under the strain, simple as that!
Solution is coat threads and 'o' ring with silicone grease or if not that, Olive oil, never Vaseline or indeed other cooking oils which can soak into and expand the rubber....and crack the housing!
hmy:And I might add, same applies to toilet holding tank rim seals or they swell, expand and leak!
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