Water was coming from behind the cowl which I removed. A slight turn on the fast drain plug stopped it but I noticed the plug was very loose. Is this normal, or does it need screwing in further or is it broken?
Thanks, G
Thanks, G
Carver Rapide GE water heater fast drain plug
- Thread starter g1
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Damian
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- Mar 14, 2005
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G,
When you say fast drain plug, which are you talking about?
The drain plug is at the bottom left of the cowl, and is accessable without taking the cover off.
The pressure release valve is top left, under the cowl, with the fusible plug a metal "nut" centre top under the cowl.
If you are talking about the pressure release valve, then it should be tight enough to create a seal against its 'O' ring, but not extrememly tight as it is a plastic material and relatively easily broken.
The only way of checking is to take it out and see if any of the threaded part is left inside the heater.
If any is still in, then it is a case of getting it out, and replacing the valve with a new one.
When you say fast drain plug, which are you talking about?
The drain plug is at the bottom left of the cowl, and is accessable without taking the cover off.
The pressure release valve is top left, under the cowl, with the fusible plug a metal "nut" centre top under the cowl.
If you are talking about the pressure release valve, then it should be tight enough to create a seal against its 'O' ring, but not extrememly tight as it is a plastic material and relatively easily broken.
The only way of checking is to take it out and see if any of the threaded part is left inside the heater.
If any is still in, then it is a case of getting it out, and replacing the valve with a new one.
The valve in the top left corner has been for some time the 'quick drain valve'(QDV)and not the pressure release valve it once was? Reason is as a pressure relief valve, it blows off at 50psi, permanent stretching to the later slimmer tie rod occurs at pressure above 40psi.
Whichever, after several years this valve is very prone to break at it's base leaving the threaded part in the heater, however it's straightforward to replace if the correct method is used.
Inviting as it is, you must NEVER attempt to use a tapered 'stud extractor' of the type used to remove metal bolts, this is without doubt certain to do far more damage.
Whichever, after several years this valve is very prone to break at it's base leaving the threaded part in the heater, however it's straightforward to replace if the correct method is used.
Inviting as it is, you must NEVER attempt to use a tapered 'stud extractor' of the type used to remove metal bolts, this is without doubt certain to do far more damage.
P.S, re-reading what you say, the toggle which you turn on the end is loose and floppy until held firm by the hole through which it appears in the cowl.
You're right , Gary. When the cowl is replaced the end is held firm. So, maybe it's OK after all?
Thanks to all for your help.
G
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