Damp discovery

[NickB]

Hi,

I bought my 1995 ABI Sprinter in 2006 and have had a happy time caravanning in it with my children. It set me back £3000 and I like it because it is light weight and towable.

Unfortunately when it was serviced last week I was told some damp had been detected in the rear offside (bathroom wall). I asked how much it would cost to have this repaired and was told it could be £1000 or more.

Just been wondering whether the cost of owning a caravan is going to be more than I anticipated! What do people generally do with older vans that develop damp problems, is there a stage where you just write the van off and take it to the scrap yard, or do you just keep trying to repair it?

 

[RogerL]

You need to to find out how and where the damp is coming in, if indeed the source is external.

If the awning rail(s) are starting to leak they can be removed, reseated on new mastic and allow the interior to dry out.

If the shower area or water system is leaking, then it'll need fixing.

Do you actually have a quote for repair or is

 

[NickB]

You need to to find out how and where the damp is coming in, if indeed the source is external.

If the awning rail(s) are starting to leak they can be removed, reseated on new mastic and allow the interior to dry out.

If the shower area or water system is leaking, then it'll need fixing.

Do you actually have a quote for repair or is

 

[nkosibob]

hello nick----i am in the middle of repairing the rear outside toilet wall in my van, the damp was really bad so it's new panels and support batons, and so far the cost of the job has been about

 

[kobudo]

Hi i seem to have found out last week when away we have a damp spot (front end window leaking in through rubber Lunar 590 1989

oh dear ! have sealed the window at the top where we think its coming in and hopefully that it will cure it just hope wood will dry out ??? best of luck to you all ...fingers crossed

 

[PaulHull]

Hi Nick,

I had some moderate damp in my 88 Swift Rapide that was getting in through a seal in the roof that had been incorrectly fitted. I started by repairing the leak (used silicone sealant - cue the flurry of people telling you not to use silicone sealant), and then I removed the inner wallboard (the whole back end came out).

I removed all of the rotten wood immediately and left the wet-but-still-sound wood to dry for a month. When all was dry I put in replacement timbers, new polystyrene and replaced the whole wallboard with one single piece. I glued it to the wood behind and screwed it in in the corners to hold it while the glue dried, and applied slight pressure to the wall using piece of wood.

All in all I'd say it took about 12 hours and I've not done too bad a job, I was quoted something ridiculous like