hi all, just had a second look at an abi tri star 1990 armed with a damp meter , there is no smell, and no soft spongy wood anywhere, but when putting the damp meter on walls insde wardrobe ,bathroom and under kitching it squeeled at us not just a click. the seller said it needs re sealing on the roof,. we now have to decide whether to buy or not. its £1500. we really like the lay out but the decision is really hard please can someone give us advice
damp meter squeels
- Thread starter kimjohn
- Start date
Damian
Moderator
Depends how you were using the damp meter, and how good the meter is/was.
Unless used correctly it will give false readings.
Unless used correctly it will give false readings.
my husband put both prongs on the walls an aplyed a little pressure in some places it had no sound others just clicked but the places i mentioned it was very high pitched.we got the damp meter from bq as tow sure had non in stock but it says for timber , thanks ,kim
my husband put both prongs on the walls an aplyed a little pressure in some places it had no sound others just clicked but the places i mentioned it was very high pitched.we got the damp meter from bq as tow sure had non in stock but it says for timber , thanks ,kim
Damian
Moderator
Kim, I am afraid you were using the meter incorrectly.
Also, the B&Q or any other cheap meters are not very accurate.
The industry standard meter used is the Protimeter, which will set you back over
Also, the B&Q or any other cheap meters are not very accurate.
The industry standard meter used is the Protimeter, which will set you back over
I wonder if there is a mobile caravan maintenance engineer in you area. If so, they should be properly equiped and experienced to detect damp, and could give the rest of the van a look-over whilst they were there.
The problem is not re-sealing the roof, but whether the damp has damaged the structure inside the walls.
Given that the owner has said that there is a problem, I would walk away. That's quite a lot of money to pay out and find later than the van needs major work, and there will be another along with a similar layout in due course.
The problem is not re-sealing the roof, but whether the damp has damaged the structure inside the walls.
Given that the owner has said that there is a problem, I would walk away. That's quite a lot of money to pay out and find later than the van needs major work, and there will be another along with a similar layout in due course.
Damian
Moderator
Kim, in reply to your comment earlier.
A damp meter works on the principle of differential resistance between the prongs.
If the surface is even the smallest part damp, it will respond, but that does not mean the van is damp, just the surface.
To test a van properly you need to open every locker, door, cupboard etc and leave the van for about an hour to allow the whole van to acclimatise to the prevailing atmosphere.
It is very easy to get false readings, one only has to contact a hidden staple, or have the prongs in contact with the rubber seals around windows to make it look as if the van is dripping wet, a ploy "sometimes" used by dealers to reduce trade in values!!
Wood is naturally damp anyway, and a certain reading is to be expected, increasing with damp weather, reducing in hot dry weather.
Unless the mater has been calibrated to take account of the type of wood and its natural "wetness" for want of a better word, and you have the reference tables to hand, then getting wrong information is going to happen.
A damp meter works on the principle of differential resistance between the prongs.
If the surface is even the smallest part damp, it will respond, but that does not mean the van is damp, just the surface.
To test a van properly you need to open every locker, door, cupboard etc and leave the van for about an hour to allow the whole van to acclimatise to the prevailing atmosphere.
It is very easy to get false readings, one only has to contact a hidden staple, or have the prongs in contact with the rubber seals around windows to make it look as if the van is dripping wet, a ploy "sometimes" used by dealers to reduce trade in values!!
Wood is naturally damp anyway, and a certain reading is to be expected, increasing with damp weather, reducing in hot dry weather.
Unless the mater has been calibrated to take account of the type of wood and its natural "wetness" for want of a better word, and you have the reference tables to hand, then getting wrong information is going to happen.
I, too, think that is an awful lot of cash for a 1990 'van from a manufacturer no longer building tourers. I think you should walk away.
If in doubt I would walk away. Resealing isnt the cheapest job, so consider the cost and add it to the price of the van. Then ask yourself if you would be willing to pay the total for the van.
hi, thank you to everyone who has given their advice on this matter. we had more or less decided not to have it, but after reading all the comments and useful advice we are going to stay with our trusty 1985 swift dannet with no damp, thanks to all and happy touring, john + kim
Hello Kim & John,
As most caravans are primarily constructed from wood, any hint of a damp problem is usually bad news. If a caravan needs to be resealed, then how long has it needed the repair? And how much water has managed to get inside the construction?
Sadly when water does get inside, then rot very quickly starts, and the problem is how far has the structure been affected?
Repairs to damp caravans can be very successful, but as the structure is hidden from sight there is always that nagging doubt about whether all the affected material has been excavated and replaced.
I think it is wise to walk away from the caravan you were considering. Even a small structural repair is likely to cost more than the caravan is worth. It would be better to budget to spend more but only on a dry caravan.
I also have to echo Damian's caution about the DIY damp meter readings. The consumer models are not very accurate, and usually lack the essential calibration to allow the user confidence in the accuracy of the readings. Not only are meters not particularly accurate, the readings even from professional models need careful interpretation with regards to temperature, humidity, and materials being tested.
As most caravans are primarily constructed from wood, any hint of a damp problem is usually bad news. If a caravan needs to be resealed, then how long has it needed the repair? And how much water has managed to get inside the construction?
Sadly when water does get inside, then rot very quickly starts, and the problem is how far has the structure been affected?
Repairs to damp caravans can be very successful, but as the structure is hidden from sight there is always that nagging doubt about whether all the affected material has been excavated and replaced.
I think it is wise to walk away from the caravan you were considering. Even a small structural repair is likely to cost more than the caravan is worth. It would be better to budget to spend more but only on a dry caravan.
I also have to echo Damian's caution about the DIY damp meter readings. The consumer models are not very accurate, and usually lack the essential calibration to allow the user confidence in the accuracy of the readings. Not only are meters not particularly accurate, the readings even from professional models need careful interpretation with regards to temperature, humidity, and materials being tested.
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