DIY Motor mover

[ThePlotter]

Has anybody experience of fitting a motor mover themselves,how easy or difficult is any and what are the main problems if any.

I am competent at most diy etc so wondered if the saving of around £200 is worth it.

 

[trevor123]

Hi, We had a motor mover fitted by the company that sell them, it took him about 2 hours, Have know DIY to fit them as well, took them round 4 hours, our fitter charge us

 

[JTQ]

I fitted my Reich Comfort to a 2002 Alko chassis Hymer. I incidentally opted to install aft of the wheels.

I found no real difficulties after I found a method to "take the weight".

Tipping the van fully up on end gave me a bit more working space for fixing the powering cables. Cripping on the cable lugs could have been easier with the proper tool.

You have to be very careful to get your polarities right as reversed powering of the main board will damage it; just double check and check again before switching on.

 

[JeremyClarksson]

"Cripping on the cable lugs"

I hope the spelling mistake was the first "p"!

 

[cokey1970]

Plotter,

I fitted a Powrtouch mover to our Bailey Ranger last year. I was initially a bit daunted by the task but set to it and was surprised by how straightforward it is.

All in all, it took me 2 to 3 hours to fit.

Martin.

 

[cokey1970]

Forgot to mention that someone has produced a step-by-step photograph guide to fitting a mover on the net.

I'll try and find the site and post it here later.

Martin.

 

[Rubix]

JTQ: "Tipping the van fully up on end gave me a bit more working space for fixing the powering cables."

Really, I now have visions of a 'van with the hitch pointing skywards !!

JTQ: "Cripping on the cable lugs could have been easier with the proper tool."

Don't you mena crimping ?

 

[MalcolmL]

JTQ: "Tipping the van fully up on end gave me a bit more working space for fixing the powering cables."

Really, I now have visions of a 'van with the hitch pointing skywards !!

JTQ: "Cripping on the cable lugs could have been easier with the proper tool."

Don't you mena crimping ?

Let those without sin cast the first stone!!!!! Mena should be "mean"

 

[JTQ]

JTQ: "Tipping the van fully up on end gave me a bit more working space for fixing the powering cables."

Really, I now have visions of a 'van with the hitch pointing skywards !!

JTQ: "Cripping on the cable lugs could have been easier with the proper tool."

Don't you mena crimping ?

You got the picture; I jacked up the nose till the rear grounded.

I did of course mean, "crimping".

Isn't commenting on contributors spelling still the height of poor web etiquette?

 

[Roger_374318323]

I also have fitted a couple of these power movers and agree that provided you use common sense they are really quite simple to fit. Leastways on single axle vans.

Anyone tried to fit them behind the rear axle on a twin?

 

[Damian]

Roger, the recommended fitment for a twin axle van is behind the wheels.

Apart from possibly having to relocate the jacking points, or settle on a different method of jacking, the fitment is the same, but will have to reverse the connections to the motors to achieve correct movement in line with the handset.

The reasoning behind rear fitment is to allow some weight to be taken off the leading wheels to aid turning

 

[RayS]

I'vwe fitted Powrwheel movers to three vans and found it very straightforward. however a couple of tips.

Assemble the mover on a sheet of thick plastic (builders damp membrane stuff) where you can see what you are doing. leave all the bolts finger tight and then you will find it easy to slide the whole thing under the caravan.

Mark the centre of the cross member so you can see that it remains centred on assembly.

Get an extra negative terminal - available from car wiring suppliers e.g. Vehicle Wiring Products and short lengths of good size red and black cable - say 8mm square. Then re-arrange the battery to charger cabling of the caravan so you have only this heavy cable between battery and mover - positive to the isolation switch and negative to this new terminal (Which has a plastic housing). This means you do not have to get the mover supply cable AND the existing 12v cables into the battery box which can be a nightmare, particularly if you have gone to a 110aH battery which virtually fills the box.

I run the wires to the mover motors in flexible conduit with a junction box somewhere near the axle. You can make the assembly - cables, conduit, box etc. up loosely where you can see what you are doing. don't forget to colour code the ends of the wires with insulation tape using one colour for off side and one for nearside.

All this takes longer to explain than do, butthe sub assembly method saves a lot of work on you back under the van.

 

[ThePlotter]

Thanks one and all just got to decide if I can afford to get one and if so where from so I might be back for further info if and when I proceed,thanks again.

 

[Catcher]

Ray

Thanks for these tips - they look useful as I'm considering fitting a mover.

I'm afraid I can't quite follow your 4th paragraph about terminals and cabling, sorry!. When you say 'New Negative Terminal' what type do you mean exactly - where does this go? Could you please explain a little more.

Regards

Catcher

 

[YorkshireMover]

Thanks one and all just got to decide if I can afford to get one and if so where from so I might be back for further info if and when I proceed,thanks again.

I have been fitting PowrTouches for a 2-3 years and am now a Dealer. If you live in Yorkshire or thereabouts, I can do you a good deal on a Model 3, and fit for you!

Main points if fitting yourself are; rock solid electrical connections, torque wrench all clamp nuts, ensure frame not binding on inner wall of tyre when engaged, protect cable runs through chassis with conduit, gap between roller and tyre is accurate and if you do cut the motor cables keep them the same length for each motor.

 

[RayS]

Ray

Thanks for these tips - they look useful as I'm considering fitting a mover.

I'm afraid I can't quite follow your 4th paragraph about terminals and cabling, sorry!. When you say 'New Negative Terminal' what type do you mean exactly - where does this go? Could you please explain a little more.

Regards

Catcher

Sorry I was less than clear. The "extra negative terminal" is part PJ1 from Vehicle Wiring Products and consists of two studs on a common base in a small plastic enclosure with a flip lid.

Fit this inside the caravan, as close to the mover isolating switch as reasonably possible.

From the battery with new heavy cable 8 or 12mm run black to on terminal of the device mentioned and red to one side of the isolation switch.

To these same points, connect the red and balck of your origianl leads which went to the battery. You have now effectively transferred the battery terminals inside the caravan.

The mover control box positive gets connected to the other terminal of the isolation swithch, the negative to the other stud in the new box.

You need to have the new cables long enough to be able to remove the battery, but you will not have to struggle to stow two lots of quite heavy cable on top of the battery.

You will need ring terminals on the cables (all except battery end when you need the usual clamps) and these need to be applied with a crimping tool and or soldered - you will need a large electic iron or a small butane flame one.

Incidentally, I am not a fan of the quick release type of battery connections for mover applications. I much prefer the bolt clamp type where you can see the quality of the joint.

For good mover operation the quality of all the joints is highly important. Those between battery and control box can be carrying over 80 amps when both motors are driving.

If using Powrtouch, be careful not to overtighten and damage the stud connections in the control box. I use shakeproof or star washers on all these connections (under the nut, on top of the ring terminal) to minimise the chance of towing vibration loosening the joint.

Hope this has cleared things up but if not, let me know and I'll try again. It's a pity we can't send drawings over the forum, as, like most engineers, I could draw it better than write about it !

 

[Catcher]

Sorry I was less than clear. The "extra negative terminal" is part PJ1 from Vehicle Wiring Products and consists of two studs on a common base in a small plastic enclosure with a flip lid.

Fit this inside the caravan, as close to the mover isolating switch as reasonably possible.

From the battery with new heavy cable 8 or 12mm run black to on terminal of the device mentioned and red to one side of the isolation switch.

To these same points, connect the red and balck of your origianl leads which went to the battery. You have now effectively transferred the battery terminals inside the caravan.

The mover control box positive gets connected to the other terminal of the isolation swithch, the negative to the other stud in the new box.

You need to have the new cables long enough to be able to remove the battery, but you will not have to struggle to stow two lots of quite heavy cable on top of the battery.

You will need ring terminals on the cables (all except battery end when you need the usual clamps) and these need to be applied with a crimping tool and or soldered - you will need a large electic iron or a small butane flame one.

Incidentally, I am not a fan of the quick release type of battery connections for mover applications. I much prefer the bolt clamp type where you can see the quality of the joint.

For good mover operation the quality of all the joints is highly important. Those between battery and control box can be carrying over 80 amps when both motors are driving.

If using Powrtouch, be careful not to overtighten and damage the stud connections in the control box. I use shakeproof or star washers on all these connections (under the nut, on top of the ring terminal) to minimise the chance of towing vibration loosening the joint.

Hope this has cleared things up but if not, let me know and I'll try again. It's a pity we can't send drawings over the forum, as, like most engineers, I could draw it better than write about it !

Ray

Many thanks for the clarification - I now understand what to do and will follow your instructions, I'm sure it will result in a much better installation.

(You're right about the drawings!)

Regards

Catcher