Do I need a battery isolating switch?

[brianr]

Have caravanned for over thirty years and never needed an isolator switch but with having added a diy motor mover(and have read some horror reports of what can go wrong with handset, control module) which could go out of control VERY QUICKLY would like to fit an "easy access" battery isolator switch.

Is it possible to fit a battery isolator switch in an external outlet with a flip up lid (bbq point, whale ext.sub.pump)type.

Looking ror VERY quick access to battery IF EVER REQUIRED?.

 

[David_374242465]

Hi Brian,

You definately need to fit an Isolation switch.

I have recently purchased an Enduro mover for DIY fitting. The kit came with an isolation switch and "flip-up" type enclosure as you describe. Most fit this within the battery box, behind the access door,(near the mains input connection) but it is perfectly suitable for fitting through any wall on your 'van, just like bbq and pump connections.

You may be able to purchased this item as a "spare" from Enduro (Purpleline). Have a look on the internet. I have also seen similar for sale in good caravan shops.

Cheers

Dave Mac

 

[Damian]

Brian, I think you are over estimating any possible problems.

Firstly, nothing happens "Very Quickly" with a motor mover.

Secondly, there should have been an isolating switch provided with your mover.

Lastly, adding yet another isolator is just adding another place where problems can occur, such as in high resistance, loss of power or possible overheating.

The idea with any electrical installation is to have as few connections as possible, not more.

If,for example, you read the causes of the majority of house fires, they are caused by faulty wiring in junction boxes in roof spaces. I think, from memory that the number is something like 70%.

 

[WatsonJohnG]

Its a standard fitting with Powrtouch movers at least

They are usually fitted next to the mains inlet socket

I have 2 fitted ne in the +ve and one in the -ve

This means that I can run a one pair ot heavy cables from the van battery to the 2 switches and then connect the van feeds to the switches so there are only 2 thick wires in the battery box

The+ve van feed goes to the same terminal as the battery +ve so that the switch just controlls the mover.

The -ve goes to the opposite side of the switch to the van battery-ve so that the van can be isolated by switching off the -ve side if needed

This also has the avantage that fused +ve supply to any accessories are easily added at the +ve switch and earths can be connected to the -ve switch

 

[RayS]

You should have an isolator in the positive cable between battery and mover control unit. This can usually be fitted into the battery box under the mains inlet connection, and you can arrange it so that the mains cannot be connected with the isolator in the On position.

I believe there have been instances - particularly wiht early models - of the relays in the control units failing to the on position and thus driving the wheels, but these are very rare. Nonetheless an isolator is good practice.

 

[MargaretW.]

Hi Brian,

Our motor mover is one of the very first that came onto the market and the handunit was attached to the 'van by the cable. It is now on the third 'van and it was suggested that we update the electrics to a remote control. With the remote control the receiver is always "live" and a drain on the battery. We had an isolator fitted in the electrics box, under the blue cable connector. We find that the drain on the battery is considerably less this way.

Best wishes

Margaret W

 

[WatsonJohnG]

The circuitry on the Powrtouch will shut down if left on and it then needs to be switched off from 12V before it will work again

I was told to switch off the isolator switch and then count to 10 very slowly before switching back on

It works