Dometic fridge warning beeps

[Alanbrooke]

The Dometic RM8400 fridge in my Elddis Crusader Shamal has suddenly started to sound the "door open" alarm. It sounds every 2.5 minutes, both on gas and mains electric. The door is shut correctly. The 12v fuse is intact and clean. The warning light does not show when the beeping is on.
The noise is very annoying! Any ideas?
Thanks
Alan

 

[Mr Plodd]

Try switching it off, and if at all possible, disconnect the 12v supply at the back for 30 seconds (remove tge outside lower vent, you should see a multi pin connector)
That should "reboot" it, a bit like control/alt/delete on a computer.
A quick and simple procedure that might just fix your problem.

 

[Jcloughie]

My Dometic fridge would beep after 1 min. From new. We had to close the door, then push hard on the top corner. Then it recognised that it was shut and didn’t beep.

John

 

[JRT]

One very common reason for this is condensation build up on the 'door open' activation switch.

As a temp. fix disconnect the connector from the switch after carefully removing the plastic cover. The fridge light will now not activate but the noise should stop.

To fix longer term dry all parts, apply a smear of vaseline to the connection and re connect. We have had to do this about two or three times in the six years of our current 'vans ownership.

At the same time check the switch adjuster, which should be forward towards the door. You can see the two screws that need to be slackened.

 

[Buckman]

In many cases the case is that the site's 240v drops below 200v when everyone switches on their heating because the dayg is cooler than expected.

 

[RogerL]

In many cases the case is that the site's 240v drops below 200v when everyone switches on their heating because the dayg is cooler than expected.

In the UK, the declared voltage and tolerance for an electricity supply is 230 volts -6%, +10%. This gives an allowed voltage range of 216.2 volts to 253.0 volts and installed equipment must allow for this variation.

Energy suppliers monitor ambient temperature using sophisticated algorithms and adjust the grid voltage accordingly.

Some caravan site supplies are overloaded and can suffer low voltage at the pitch outlet at any time!

 

[JRT]

In many cases the case is that the site's 240v drops below 200v when everyone switches on their heating because the dayg is cooler than expected.

Not when it's running on gas though. As per the OP. We were told this in Italy once so switched to gas, made no difference untill we did more research and carried out the procedure above.

 

[Sam Vimes]

Mine would do this. My problem was due to the micro switch that gets pushed in when the door closes not being pushed in enough. I stuck a piece of foam draft excluder on it and its ok now.

 

[Mr Plodd]

Seems to be a bit if a "theme" appearing here!,
Anyone with a similar fridge please take note,

 

[JRT]

Seems to be a bit if a "theme" appearing here!,
Anyone with a similar fridge please take note,

It's a well known and well documented issue with that series of Dometic fridges.

Our previous one suffered and needed the latch adjusting and the current one needs the condensation removing now and then.

 

[JRT]

Mine would do this. My problem was due to the micro switch that gets pushed in when the door closes not being pushed in enough. I stuck a piece of foam draft excluder on it and its ok now.

The 'proper' way to fix that issue is to slacken the two fixing screws that hold the latch and then slide it slightly outwards towards the door, then re tighten the two screws.

 

[Sam Vimes]

The 'proper' way to fix that issue is to slacken the two fixing screws that hold the latch and then slide it slightly outwards towards the door, then re tighten the two screws.

I might look at that now, although its no longer a problem.

At the time of my fix it was still under warranty and I didn't want to risk breaking anything knowing how fragile some caravan items can be.

 

[JRT]

I might look at that now, although its no longer a problem.

At the time of my fix it was still under warranty and I didn't want to risk breaking anything knowing how fragile some caravan items can be.

You do have to be careful pulling the translucent plastic cover off. I found it easier to pull from the back.

After that there isn't really anything to break, just two screws to slacken and re tighten.

I did mine whilst it was under warranty as the hapless dealer insisted they couldn't replicate the issue.

 

[Jcloughie]

I understand the need to adjust the ‘door closed’ switch/sensor. But on mine, there was no visible method of doing this. The door light was just that, nothing else. I had to assume that ours had a magnetic sensor behind the lining.


John

 

[Alanbrooke]

Many thanks JRT. Disconnected the door latch plug-in connector and the noise stopped! The fridge is still working, now on mains electricity.
I prised the cover off (with difficulty) and removed the switch, where some condensation was present. I've now replaced the latch so all's well. I guess I could have simply pulled the plug-in connector off without removing the switch but I couldn't see how it all fitted together. I'll reconnect it all when we return from Cornwall.

 

[JRT]

Many thanks JRT. Disconnected the door latch plug-in connector and the noise stopped! The fridge is still working, now on mains electricity.
I prised the cover off (with difficulty) and removed the switch, where some condensation was present. I've now replaced the latch so all's well. I guess I could have simply pulled the plug-in connector off without removing the switch but I couldn't see how it all fitted together. I'll reconnect it all when we return from Cornwall.

No problem. Just be aware of course you won't now get a warning if the door is left ajar. (At the risk of stating the obvious).

 

[Mr Plodd]

How many years have we all managed without a " door is open " alarm?

One more "improvement" no-one asked for?

 

[otherclive]

I’m just amazed that our home fridge and freezer have a door open alarm, that doesn’t beep unless the door is ajar. And that can be as little as the door seals in contact with their surround. Otherwise there are no beeps. Why does the caravan equivalent have to be so rubbish. Perhaps the answer is in Steve’s YouTube video in a parallel thread.

 

[Mr Plodd]

I’m just amazed that our home fridge and freezer have a door open alarm, that doesn’t beep unless the door is ajar. And that can be as little as the door seals in contact with their surround. Otherwise there are no beeps. Why does the caravan equivalent have to be so rubbish. Perhaps the answer is in Steve’s YouTube video in a parallel thread.

Down to a price not up to a decent standard? Or trying to cram more "tech" into the product without increasing their costs.

A bit like having a fridge controlled by a PCB, what's wrong with a good old mechanical switch? Cheaper and vastly more reliable, but not "techy" enough?

Then there is the ability to switch your caravans heating on remotely with your mobile phone, Who really needs or even wants that?

Remote battery monitoring etc etc. All solutions to a problem that doesnt exist

 

[otherclive]

Down to a price not up to a decent standard? Or trying to cram more "tech" into the product without increasing their costs.

A bit like having a fridge controlled by a PCB, what's wrong with a good old mechanical switch? Cheaper and vastly more reliable, but not "techy" enough?

Then there is the ability to switch your caravans heating on remotely with your mobile phone, Who really needs or even wants that?

Remote battery monitoring etc etc. All solutions to a problem that doesnt exist

But these gizmos are snapped up by quite a number of customers. They are techno addicts , but I basically align my needs with yours. The better is the enemy of the good enough is one adage I tend to support. Hence my preference for blown air heating where the room heater is in the caravan, and physically and functionally separate from the water heater. There’s redundancy of energy sources, and if 240v and 12v electrics are lost you may be unwashed but you can still keep hyperthermia at bay with the gas heater.

 

[Mr Plodd]

Hence my preference for blown air heating where the room heater is in the caravan, and physically and functionally separate from the water heater. There’s redundancy of energy sources, and if 240v and 12v electrics are lost you may be unwashed but you can still keep hyperthermia at bay with the gas heater.

Unless of course you have a combi unit (like me )

 

[otherclive]

Unless of course you have a combi unit (like me )

Can you still get heat into the van with no 240 or 12v available?

 

[Mr Plodd]

Can you still get heat into the van with no 240 or 12v available?

Wouldn't think so, it will need 12v to operate the PCB that controls it all.

It's only the older caravans with a "gas fire" that will operate without 12v (unless of course it has auto ignition which is powered by tje 12v system not an AA battery)

 

[otherclive]

Wouldn't think so, it will need 12v to operate the PCB that controls it all.

It's only the older caravans with a "gas fire" that will operate without 12v (unless of course it has auto ignition which is powered by tje 12v system not an AA battery)

Such is progress I guess !

 

[RogerL]

Such is progress I guess !

Despite having had a Alde central heating system for 11 years, I still think the Truma blown-air was superior AS LONG AS the underfloor pipe runs were properly insulated - and would still work on gas alone, at least the heater would, not the fan-assistance.