- Apr 20, 2009
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Thanks for all the replies some varied comments to think about.
Think my decision will be a choice of blocks or Tarmac
Actually had a quote for both with Blocks at £60.00sq
Tarmac @ £76.00 sq this includes removing existing concrete, digging out for 150mm 803 sub base, 60mm of dense Tarmac base and then 40mm of top coat, all layers rolled.
The blocks would have the similar base but thicker in depth with 60mm thick blocks.
The annoying thing in all this is that I am quite capable of doing it all myself (except laying Tarmac) but my back tells me differant
Oh decision's decision's!!!!
Think my decision will be a choice of blocks or Tarmac
Actually had a quote for both with Blocks at £60.00sq
Tarmac @ £76.00 sq this includes removing existing concrete, digging out for 150mm 803 sub base, 60mm of dense Tarmac base and then 40mm of top coat, all layers rolled.
The blocks would have the similar base but thicker in depth with 60mm thick blocks.
The annoying thing in all this is that I am quite capable of doing it all myself (except laying Tarmac) but my back tells me differant
Oh decision's decision's!!!!
I have concrete,
You can power wash it ( when the dogs been on it ) or any thing else drops on it .......
Tarmac & oil leaks do like each other
It's load bearing if done right
( you can safely jack up the caravan or tug knowing the jack wont sink into it on a hot summers day )
If you are botherd about the colour ?
You can paint it
If you go for coloured concrete ( the whole batch want's to be coloured ) not just the top skim
then if you knock a lump out of it, it's still the same colour........ ( my opinion )
When I had our garden done I had a base for the conservatory & new drains put in & a base for my shed done all in the same time to save on any extra work later on so they got put in 6"+ reinforced concrete aswell
About 30 tons of garden was removed & 24 tons of concrete put back in.......
I don't intend to replace it in the near future ..........
Planning changed after the 2007 floods have a read & see if it will have any effect
You can power wash it ( when the dogs been on it ) or any thing else drops on it .......
Tarmac & oil leaks do like each other
It's load bearing if done right
If you are botherd about the colour ?
You can paint it
If you go for coloured concrete ( the whole batch want's to be coloured ) not just the top skim
When I had our garden done I had a base for the conservatory & new drains put in & a base for my shed done all in the same time to save on any extra work later on so they got put in 6"+ reinforced concrete aswell
About 30 tons of garden was removed & 24 tons of concrete put back in.......
I don't intend to replace it in the near future ..........
Planning changed after the 2007 floods have a read & see if it will have any effect
- Jun 20, 2005
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Kev
Nigel hit the nail on the head. It's all about the sub base, not what you actually see.
We had ours extended four years ago. The 26 year old Navvie worked his socks off digging out nearly 5 tons of spoil. Added 8 inches of scalpings which were carefully compacted with , firstly a vibrating plate then a mini roller. He left it for two weeks , came back rolled again and then aprox 3" of hot tarmac was laid. Of which roughly 2" was cousre and 1" fine , all rolled with a roller. It hasn't moved but if I need to use the jack I always place a sheet of ply under the jack. I thingk the jack alone would pierce the tarmac.
Nigel hit the nail on the head. It's all about the sub base, not what you actually see.
We had ours extended four years ago. The 26 year old Navvie worked his socks off digging out nearly 5 tons of spoil. Added 8 inches of scalpings which were carefully compacted with , firstly a vibrating plate then a mini roller. He left it for two weeks , came back rolled again and then aprox 3" of hot tarmac was laid. Of which roughly 2" was cousre and 1" fine , all rolled with a roller. It hasn't moved but if I need to use the jack I always place a sheet of ply under the jack. I thingk the jack alone would pierce the tarmac.
- Mar 14, 2005
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It doesn't matter who puts a drive down, if it's not done properly then it is more likely to fail in some way. Original build is no guarantee of a proper job.
Regardless of advice on the forum to the contrary, a simple phone call to your planning department will tell you if you need to use a particular type of construction, whilst there are national guidelines, local planning regs or by laws will take precedence, and it would be a waste of money to do a job which the council then instruct you to redo.
Regardless of advice on the forum to the contrary, a simple phone call to your planning department will tell you if you need to use a particular type of construction, whilst there are national guidelines, local planning regs or by laws will take precedence, and it would be a waste of money to do a job which the council then instruct you to redo.
Hello Kev
You can replace the existing concrete for like for like as long as you dont increase the area of your drive.
When you replace your drive it may be neccessary to repalce the sub base as well
Concrete is good hardwaring, but not particularly attractive
Coloured concrete as above unless the insitu cvoncrete with a powder coated surface laid at the same time as the concrete, this generally has to be recoloured every three years or so
Tarmac is ok but as mentioned above oil leaks damage the tarmac- beware of the cowboys
Block pavers, there are lots of different types and patterns some have tight flush joints which dont look as bad as the v jointed pavers when mossing up, one of the ways to prevent moss from building up is regular brushing, this can be hard work if you have a large drive
Another way of dealing with your drive is to use resin bonded gravel, depending upon the state of your existing drive it may be possible to apply this to your existing drive directly or applied to a new concrete drive
Alternatively precast concrete slabs could be used however they must be at least 50mm thick or better still laid on 150mm of insitu concrete
Hope this helps
Alb
You can replace the existing concrete for like for like as long as you dont increase the area of your drive.
When you replace your drive it may be neccessary to repalce the sub base as well
Concrete is good hardwaring, but not particularly attractive
Coloured concrete as above unless the insitu cvoncrete with a powder coated surface laid at the same time as the concrete, this generally has to be recoloured every three years or so
Tarmac is ok but as mentioned above oil leaks damage the tarmac- beware of the cowboys
Block pavers, there are lots of different types and patterns some have tight flush joints which dont look as bad as the v jointed pavers when mossing up, one of the ways to prevent moss from building up is regular brushing, this can be hard work if you have a large drive
Another way of dealing with your drive is to use resin bonded gravel, depending upon the state of your existing drive it may be possible to apply this to your existing drive directly or applied to a new concrete drive
Alternatively precast concrete slabs could be used however they must be at least 50mm thick or better still laid on 150mm of insitu concrete
Hope this helps
Alb
Hello Kev
You can replace the existing concrete for like for like as long as you dont increase the area of your drive.
When you replace your drive it may be neccessary to repalce the sub base as well
Concrete is good hardwaring, but not particularly attractive
Coloured concrete as above unless the insitu cvoncrete with a powder coated surface laid at the same time as the concrete, this generally has to be recoloured every three years or so
Tarmac is ok but as mentioned above oil leaks damage the tarmac- beware of the cowboys
Block pavers, there are lots of different types and patterns some have tight flush joints which dont look as bad as the v jointed pavers when mossing up, one of the ways to prevent moss from building up is regular brushing, this can be hard work if you have a large drive
Another way of dealing with your drive is to use resin bonded gravel, depending upon the state of your existing drive it may be possible to apply this to your existing drive directly or applied to a new concrete drive
Alternatively precast concrete slabs could be used however they must be at least 50mm thick or better still laid on 150mm of insitu concrete
Hope this helps
Alb
You can replace the existing concrete for like for like as long as you dont increase the area of your drive.
When you replace your drive it may be neccessary to repalce the sub base as well
Concrete is good hardwaring, but not particularly attractive
Coloured concrete as above unless the insitu cvoncrete with a powder coated surface laid at the same time as the concrete, this generally has to be recoloured every three years or so
Tarmac is ok but as mentioned above oil leaks damage the tarmac- beware of the cowboys
Block pavers, there are lots of different types and patterns some have tight flush joints which dont look as bad as the v jointed pavers when mossing up, one of the ways to prevent moss from building up is regular brushing, this can be hard work if you have a large drive
Another way of dealing with your drive is to use resin bonded gravel, depending upon the state of your existing drive it may be possible to apply this to your existing drive directly or applied to a new concrete drive
Alternatively precast concrete slabs could be used however they must be at least 50mm thick or better still laid on 150mm of insitu concrete
Hope this helps
Alb
Alb250751 said:
On our drive we have two runs of 2'x2' paving slabs and in between there are round pebbles. The caravan is on this and the rest of the front is pavers with cut outs for flower beds. I park my 4x4 on the pavers. There is a problem of small weeds but I use weedkiller in a pressure sprayer for those. We had the block paving done in October 2003 and last year was the first time I needed to jet wash it. Like some others have said, it's whats underneath that counts and ours is the same as when it was laid.
Gafferbill said:
You know how things go & things change a bit
Have now room to park the van & have enough room to put awning up.....
two for one
- Apr 20, 2009
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Paid a visit to local planning office, can only replace like for like Concrete providing the water falls away onto flower beds, lawn etc. no water can run onto the footpath as is the scenario now, which makes it impossible as my drive has a slight slope to the path and I live on a hill!!
So it has got to be permeable so either porus tarmac (way toooo expensive for me) or block pavers. Think it might be block pavers
So it has got to be permeable so either porus tarmac (way toooo expensive for me) or block pavers. Think it might be block pavers
How about recycled rubber there are a few places in britain where the old railway tracks have been lift and recycled rubber put down as a cycle/walking path. Sure you could get some info on it off the net would last for years without cracking,subsidence etc
- Apr 20, 2009
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Finally see the light, Mr Fleety has a new resting place.
Previous drive;
And after the removal of 58 tonnes of spoil and rubble and the replacement materials weighing in at 56 tonnes
this is the outcome
It also included a further patio area down by the front door and the knocking down and rebuilding of some of the walls
Previous drive;
And after the removal of 58 tonnes of spoil and rubble and the replacement materials weighing in at 56 tonnes
this is the outcome
It also included a further patio area down by the front door and the knocking down and rebuilding of some of the walls
- Jul 15, 2008
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