Coljac,
I do believe things have changed in Scotland as far as eating out is concerned. There are a good number of excellent restaurants serving good, home produced food. Just three examples would be Eat on the Green at Udny Green, Aberdeenshire, The Glass House in Grantown on Spey, Moray and Sangsters in Elie, Fife. None of these are cheap but the quality is definitely there.
I am less able to comment on west coast establishments but one good one is Grants of Craigellachie at Ratagan near the CC site at Morvich in Wester Ross.