Electrical Problem

[PaulT]

A few electrical problems have arisen with my S3 Cartagena.

Things started to go wrong with the mover (PowrTouch). Sometimes the rear motors would start to work and then stop. If I turn the isolator switch off and on they will start to work. The fault isn’t dependent on load or time – sometimes they will work fine for a minute or two on a hill and then trying to move a few feet on a flat surface they will stop.

Next, we noticed a smell in the awning of hot plastic – not burning, just hot. It seemed to be coming from the area of the fridge vent and we put it down to something to do with the very hot weather we’ve been having and the fridge having to work overtime. Then we had a warning on the Alde panel “overheat, red fail” and no hot water. I took the fuse out, put it back and all was ok.

Then, this morning, we went to move the caravan ready for our trip back to the UK. The mover wouldn’t work at all. It tried but there was obviously not enough power. The voltmeter showed 10.3 volts. I checked the mains connector and all seemed correct and, in any case, it has a solar panel. We left the mains hook up lead in place and after an hour or so the voltmeter (mains disconnected for the reading) showed 13.1. As soon as I tried the mover, it dropped back to 10.3 volts. The battery is less than a year old.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

 

[Damian]

With a drop to 10.3 v it sounds like the battery is failing.

 

[PaulT]

Thanks for that Damian, is that probable with a battery less than a year old?

 

[Woodentop]

Have you checked the battery electrolyte level? If you are in the heat of Europe it won't help. Use cold boiled water if you need some.

 

[PaulT]

It's a modern battery and sealed so I can't check the level. However, the battery feels warm to the touch and there is a faint smell coming from it - it's difficult to describe but it's a sort of "sweet" smell. Any ideas?

 

[merseydave]

I would say the same, it sounds like a fault with the battery......sounds like it is not holding it's charge as in very little AMPS.

Regards Dave.

 

[ProfJohnL]

With a warm/hot battery, I would also suspect the caravans power supply/charger which may have over charged the battery.

 

[PaulT]

Thanks for all the answers.

An update – I towed the caravan from home to Caen yesterday. On arrival, the voltage was 13.6. Stopped in it overnight, tv, lights etc used. This morning the voltage was 13.3 so overnight the battery had lost very little. As an experiment I tried the motor mover, nothing happened but the voltage dropped to 9.5. I turned the mover isolator switch off, the voltage returned to 13.3. Do you still think it’s the battery or should I contact PowrTouch?

 

[Damian]

If, when you stayed the night in the van and the mains power was not connected, then the battery certainly sounds as if it is OK, having been charged by the car on the journey.

To drop to 9.5v on operating the mover it suggests that one or both motors is drawing a huge power demand which would suggest there is something wrong with one or both motors, providing the wiring is correct.

It most certainly needs input from Powrtouch and the attendance of one of their fitters.

 

[BryanTheSnail]

Golden rule for electrical faults, don't ever assume that the fault you find is the one causing the problems.
Regarding the mover fault, check the connections on the motor as these can get corroded. Wiggle the connectors about and it may well work again. Had this problem several times with mine. They are in an exposed area. If that solves the issue you can replace the connectors.

 

[Damian]

Quote " Regarding the mover fault, check the connections on the motor as these can get corroded. Wiggle the connectors about and it may well work again. Had this problem several times with mine. They are in an exposed area. If that solves the issue you can replace the connectors"

I agree that this may be the problem, but if the mover is still under warranty it is covered by Powrtouch,who can also make sure everything else is OK, or not.

 

[PaulT]

Another update - I disconnected the supply leads to each of the mover control boxes in turn. Same fault so obviously not the mover. Resigned myself to taking the battery out and getting it checked. When I lifted the battery out, it's obvious from the liquid underneath that the battery has been leaking, so the electrolyte level is low (but can't be topped up) so the battery is faulty after only 1 year. Hopefully the problem will be solved with a replacement battery.

Thanks for all the input from posters.

 

[Damian]

If, as you say, there was battery fluid in the battery tray then apart from a split in the battery case I would have he charger checked to make sure it is not overcharging.

 

[PaulT]

Problem solved. When the battery was installed (by the dealer) the fitter did not remove the transit bungs from the battery. This meant that the internal pressure in the battery could not escape and caused the battery casing to buckle. This allowed the electrolyte to escape and collect in the tray underneath. I’m assuming that if the casing hadn’t buckled then the battery could have exploded with serious consequences. I’ve bought a new battery and the mover problems have been solved. I will now be pursuing a refund from the dealer for the cost of the new battery.

 

[Damian]

I am glad that you have found the problem and got it sorted.

I have to say that I have never come across such a situation where transit bungs have been left in place, they are normally very obvious.

You are right in assuming that had the case not buckled and split in a controlled way it was possible for the battery to explode with very serious consequences.

 

[chrisn7]

I would second that. I bought a second hand mover, and carefully checked all connections. Those to the motors all had some corrosion of the plating, though not rusted, and of course all were crimped connections. Replaced with new terminals, this time soldered in place.

 

[RayS]

Try the mover with the rollers not engaged - see if the same thing happens and what the voltage drop is. Try both forward and reverse directions. Then try each motor individually the same way and not the voltage readings. If you have one motor that has either failed or has bad connections, this should show up and can be looked at. If the fault shows up on motors together and on both individually then fault - if with the mover - is probably back at the control box. Lift the lid and gentrly try to move the connections on the studs - they should all be rock firm. Do the same on the back of the main isolation switch.

If you find a loose connection, disconnect the battery at the terminals before attempting to tighten.

You should expect some voltage drop running the motors unloaded and you will be able to hear them running reasonably fast. Again if they are not both the same - give or take - then this points to a fault.

From the fact your battery charged while towing I would suspect your battery connections are OK but the mover will take far more current that the charger puts in so it's still worth a check on tightness and cleanliness.

Suggest you only do the spanner stuff if you are confident and experienced but the voltage drop and off-load running tests are useful and Powrtouch may ask you to do them anyway if you contact them.

 

[PaulT]

As I wrote earlier, the problem has been solved. I've also received a cheque from the original supplying dealer to cover the cost of my new battery. In view of what could have happened with the battery, perhaps they thought they were getting away lightly. I'm happy though.