From what i remember on the 2 that i have replaced they went open circuit when i did a continuity test?
Fridge out - surprisingly straight forward actually, although slightly different screw locations from the various videos online (2 on each side, going into the side of the fridge, as opposed to the front of it).
I have cleaned the rear up, swept out the flue, and have turned the unit upside down
Happy to hear the fluid moving about - took just over 10 seconds to run through, which seems to be what you want.
Gary - got a reading of 480 ohms for the 240 element - thanks for that really useful info....
when I checked the 12v in a similar manner, I got a zero reading - can you (anyone) advise if this means the 12v element has failed ?
Also, can anyone advise what the function of this part is ?
The cap on the end says "do not remove" but it was moving about a lot, and I was just wondering if it was simply a cap, or if it was, say, a valve cover or something.. ( I haven`t removed it to see what is underneath)
Hopefully mixing the fluid and a general clean should sort it... fingers crossed
The burner looks a lot older than the ones seen in the online videos, I have not decided if I need to open it to clean the jet - worth it ???
I have cleaned the rear up, swept out the flue, and have turned the unit upside down
Happy to hear the fluid moving about - took just over 10 seconds to run through, which seems to be what you want.
Gary - got a reading of 480 ohms for the 240 element - thanks for that really useful info....
when I checked the 12v in a similar manner, I got a zero reading - can you (anyone) advise if this means the 12v element has failed ?
Also, can anyone advise what the function of this part is ?
The cap on the end says "do not remove" but it was moving about a lot, and I was just wondering if it was simply a cap, or if it was, say, a valve cover or something.. ( I haven`t removed it to see what is underneath)
Hopefully mixing the fluid and a general clean should sort it... fingers crossed
The burner looks a lot older than the ones seen in the online videos, I have not decided if I need to open it to clean the jet - worth it ???
Cleaning and turning complete, fridge now refitted.
Further testing of the 12 v side, and I got the following :
With the car hooked up, I was getting over 14v at the incoming
but as soon as I switched the fridge to run off the 12v, it dropped to 10
still with a zero ohms reading across the 2 wires from the element, although on an odd occasion, with the mulitmeter connected, it would flicker up to about 2 and then instantly drop again....
I`m no electrician, but that doesnt sound right
Further testing of the 12 v side, and I got the following :
With the car hooked up, I was getting over 14v at the incoming
but as soon as I switched the fridge to run off the 12v, it dropped to 10
still with a zero ohms reading across the 2 wires from the element, although on an odd occasion, with the mulitmeter connected, it would flicker up to about 2 and then instantly drop again....
I`m no electrician, but that doesnt sound right
ohms law
Amps = watts / voltage
Resistance = voltage / amperage
so. 125w/12v= 10amp and 12v/10amp = 1.2ohms
So there is virtually no resistance on the 12v element, 1.2ohms which pulls 10amps, that accounts for the voltage drop when you switched it on, albeit you can generally decrease the drop by upgrading earth wiring through the 12S socket and plug.
As for the rest, the bottle is the condenser and the cap does spin, leave it alone nothing you can do.
Same goes for the gas, you have the RM212F model so the old style burner, perfectly good design and as long as you see three slightly different blue flame heights when adjusting the control knob, then nothing wrong with jet.
(The 'F' btw stands for Fawn and supposedly the colour of the Fascia and knobs etc?!)
One other thing, you have disconnected the gas, great care is required on reconnection that the compression joint is correctly tightened so it does not leak, however, that does not mean cramming it up so tight it cracks the back of the nut and it then starts leaking several weeks later?!!
So if your in any doubt, get it done professionally
Amps = watts / voltage
Resistance = voltage / amperage
so. 125w/12v= 10amp and 12v/10amp = 1.2ohms
So there is virtually no resistance on the 12v element, 1.2ohms which pulls 10amps, that accounts for the voltage drop when you switched it on, albeit you can generally decrease the drop by upgrading earth wiring through the 12S socket and plug.
As for the rest, the bottle is the condenser and the cap does spin, leave it alone nothing you can do.
Same goes for the gas, you have the RM212F model so the old style burner, perfectly good design and as long as you see three slightly different blue flame heights when adjusting the control knob, then nothing wrong with jet.
(The 'F' btw stands for Fawn and supposedly the colour of the Fascia and knobs etc?!)
One other thing, you have disconnected the gas, great care is required on reconnection that the compression joint is correctly tightened so it does not leak, however, that does not mean cramming it up so tight it cracks the back of the nut and it then starts leaking several weeks later?!!
So if your in any doubt, get it done professionally
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