extending life of rail seals

[g1]

Damp tests suggest that the rail seals on my van have not been leaking but they do look a bit weathered. Is there anything that could be applied to further extend their life e. g. some kind of sealant / filler? Somebody mentioned transparent bonding but i don't know what that is.

Any thoughts?

Thanks, Wes

 

[rob_jax]

Hi Wes,

I believe that it's a false economy to apply a top-coat sealer to the awning rail in the hope of a long term solution.

It is slightly more complex and time-consuming to do the job properly (or more expensive if you need a service centre to do the job) but removing the rails and resealing with the correct butyl mastic will last another 10 to 20 years.

My views on this subject have some bias as we have an Eriba 3-berth - because the body doesn't flex, these caravans will only need resealing every 20 years or more when the sealant eventually rots - rather than the more frequent sealant replacement caused by movement in wooden framed caravans.

Robert

 

[g1]

Hi Wes,

I believe that it's a false economy to apply a top-coat sealer to the awning rail in the hope of a long term solution.

It is slightly more complex and time-consuming to do the job properly (or more expensive if you need a service centre to do the job) but removing the rails and resealing with the correct butyl mastic will last another 10 to 20 years.

My views on this subject have some bias as we have an Eriba 3-berth - because the body doesn't flex, these caravans will only need resealing every 20 years or more when the sealant eventually rots - rather than the more frequent sealant replacement caused by movement in wooden framed caravans.

Robert

Thanks Robert. I guess it's a case of penny wise pound foolish.

I've met a few Dutch people with Eribas who told me they have a tubular steel frame which sounds much more robust. Wes

 

[Bigbigtom]

Hi Wes,

I believe that it's a false economy to apply a top-coat sealer to the awning rail in the hope of a long term solution.

It is slightly more complex and time-consuming to do the job properly (or more expensive if you need a service centre to do the job) but removing the rails and resealing with the correct butyl mastic will last another 10 to 20 years.

My views on this subject have some bias as we have an Eriba 3-berth - because the body doesn't flex, these caravans will only need resealing every 20 years or more when the sealant eventually rots - rather than the more frequent sealant replacement caused by movement in wooden framed caravans.

Robert

Hi "G",

I have had to reseal rails, doors, sills, lockers ETC.

My advice is "DO A PROPER JOB". one might be forgiven if you do not want the peace of mind of knowing it will not leak.

The basics are pretty simple, 1/ Remove rubbery cosmetic strip, 2/ Remove all the screws that are now visible, 3/ Firmly but carefully remove the rail itself. Hard bit over !!!. messy bit to come, 4/ Remove the old sticky gunge using white spirit and plastic spatula, from both caravan AND the old rail, 5/ Clean and shine until the joint is as new, "Rest have a drink" but clean your HANDS first, The easy Bit, 6/ Using Sikaflex 221 in a gun apply along and slightly above the joint, any excess of the new compound will squeeze out later, "Be generous", 7/ apply same to back of rail, 8/ Offer up rail and try to find a screw-hole or two, 9/ screw the rail back into place, slightly wider new screws help. 10/ clean off the gunge and press the rubbery strip back into place "I hate that bit", Admire YOUR handy-work.

Do NOT scrimp on materials, bath silicon sealant is NOT the same.

My wife helps and the job gets done quicker.