Hitch damper

Feb 17, 2015
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Hi folks, new here. Just bought my first van :) A very pretty (old) alpine sprite, 1981....

So, been reading lots of stuff about testing this and that. Just went and tested my hitch damper, by pushing in hard... It did not return, so i assume the damper requires replacing? Also, the hitch itself spins completely through 360 degrees.. Is this part of the same problem,, or should i be looking for something else?

Many thanks, Jamie
 

Damian

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Mar 14, 2005
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You first need to establish which chassis you have, it may be Al-Ko, BPW , Knott or B&B, then you can get the right damper.
The damper should return to its resting position after being pushed in, and If it does not, it needs replacing.
On your van it was common to have a fully rotating hitch, so that is not part of the problem.
I would suggest getting a mobile engineer to look at it to save you getting the wrong parts, and fitting it correctly.
 
Feb 17, 2015
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Thanks for that info.. How can I tell which chassis i have? I am pretty confident that if i can get the part that i will be ok fitting it (I'm an engineer, currently fixing trains)...
 

Damian

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Quote " How can I tell which chassis i have?"

It will be stamped on the A frame under any A frame cover.
 
Feb 17, 2015
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Ok, so, i have been thinking.. (dangerous).
I know that everyone says that the damper should return under its own force, but why? From what i can see there is no spring to act against it... Surely so long as there is sufficient pressure during compression then it is doing its job ok, and will be extended by the act of the vehicle pulling away?
Please, if I am missing something, then forgive my ignorance, but as an engineer I like to have a grip on these things...
 
Apr 7, 2008
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magicpickle said:
Ok, so, i have been thinking.. (dangerous).
I know that everyone says that the damper should return under its own force, but why? From what i can see there is no spring to act against it... Surely so long as there is sufficient pressure during compression then it is doing its job ok, and will be extended by the act of the vehicle pulling away?
Please, if I am missing something, then forgive my ignorance, but as an engineer I like to have a grip on these things...

Taken from this link ...

The correct operation of a coupling damper gives smooth and controlled braking. When the damper has failed it is very noticeable by the fierce application of the brakes or 'snatching' when the towing vehicle's brakes are applied.
Before replacing the damper it may be worth checking the adjustment of the brake shoes to the drums. Sometimes badly adjusted brakes can have the same affect as a failed damper.
The dampers assembled within overrun couplings are pressurised so if they are working correctly it is difficult to check their operation as it requires a considerable amount of pressure to push the coupling back by hand. You may be able to compress the coupling by pushing the coupling head and simulating the overrun system on light weight braked trailers & caravans but otherwise if you can push it back easily or it feels 'springy' then generally the damper has failed.
Dampers are usually very reliable and will last for many years (or many miles) , generally the life of a damper can be shorten by lack of maintenance or bad driving habits. Continued hard braking will shorten its life and even an emergency stop may bring the damper to the end of its life prematurely. The most common cause for dampers to fail is the lack of maintenance or incorrect adjustment. Brakes should be checked and adjusted regularly (about every six months for the average trailer) this ensures that the damper does not take the full force of the overrun when braking occurs.
 
Aug 9, 2010
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Magic, I replaced my damper last year on my B&B chassis.
They are now becoming difficult to find, and are expensive.(around £60/70.)
I was very fortunate to find a new old stock one in my local caravan breakers for only £15!.Try him, with the measurements of your old one.
(the Caravan Centre, Blaenavon 01495 792700)
 

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