Just bought a twin axle and do not own any screw up type levellers. So is there a easy way or do I carry half a timber yard?
Colin - Orpington.
Colin - Orpington.
How do I level a twin-axle?
- Thread starter sunnybunny
- Start date
Hello Colin. This subject has been brought up many times on this forum and there are several ways to do this
This is the way we do it, you need two of the large Fiamma (yellow)levelling blocks to start.
Measure from the centre of you fist wheel to the centre of second wheel Ive forgotten what ours is note the measurementlay levelling blocks out back to back now that measurement you took space the blocks out to that distance basically when you reverse up the first block your first axle goes over the top and second axle follows this should just about get you level I hope you get the gist of this , others will reply and youi can your pick which way you choose . Good luck old chap Regards Sir Roger
This is the way we do it, you need two of the large Fiamma (yellow)levelling blocks to start.
Measure from the centre of you fist wheel to the centre of second wheel Ive forgotten what ours is note the measurementlay levelling blocks out back to back now that measurement you took space the blocks out to that distance basically when you reverse up the first block your first axle goes over the top and second axle follows this should just about get you level I hope you get the gist of this , others will reply and youi can your pick which way you choose . Good luck old chap Regards Sir Roger
Could you not just put one of the levelling blocks between the wheels (as well as the second one of course), or are the ramps too big ?
I tow a SA, so if i'm wrong you can tell me to shut up, go easy though
I tow a SA, so if i'm wrong you can tell me to shut up, go easy though
Hi Colin.
We have a twin axle with motor movers front and rear so we cannot use the big yellow rampy things as the movers won't clear.
Tried it once - didn't like it. Got on 'em and couldn't get off without damaging movers.We ended up jacking the van up to get the bloody ramps out.
So now we make sure that,side to side is as level as possible with any real incline being from front to rear.Obviously,side to side is never bang on level so we use 1" thick squares of timber at the low side and run the van up onto them either from the front or from the rear,whichever.We carry four pieces so each wheel can be on two squares.This,of course,raises that side of the van by 2".
If we needed any more than that,we'd look for a different pitch.
You'll soon find the best way for you and doubtless curse and swear a bit before you do.But you will get there.
Good luck, Dave.
We have a twin axle with motor movers front and rear so we cannot use the big yellow rampy things as the movers won't clear.
Tried it once - didn't like it. Got on 'em and couldn't get off without damaging movers.We ended up jacking the van up to get the bloody ramps out.
So now we make sure that,side to side is as level as possible with any real incline being from front to rear.Obviously,side to side is never bang on level so we use 1" thick squares of timber at the low side and run the van up onto them either from the front or from the rear,whichever.We carry four pieces so each wheel can be on two squares.This,of course,raises that side of the van by 2".
If we needed any more than that,we'd look for a different pitch.
You'll soon find the best way for you and doubtless curse and swear a bit before you do.But you will get there.
Good luck, Dave.
Thank you to all for the advice, nice try Rubix - you can't fit a yellow thingy between the wheels but thanks anyway.
Colin.
Colin.
I've made some ramps out of ply. The first is just overt 20" long and is just high enough to go in fornt of the wheel without fouling the motormover.
The ramp for the other wheel is the clever bit, it's the same as the first ramp but made in 2 halves.
The first section fits between the van wheels, so as you drive forward the van rises on both ramps until you have room to get the second half af the ramp in between the wheels. You can then drive forward again with the van rising all the time.
The bit that takes some messing about is trying to put the Alko wheel locks on as well!!
The ramp for the other wheel is the clever bit, it's the same as the first ramp but made in 2 halves.
The first section fits between the van wheels, so as you drive forward the van rises on both ramps until you have room to get the second half af the ramp in between the wheels. You can then drive forward again with the van rising all the time.
The bit that takes some messing about is trying to put the Alko wheel locks on as well!!
Hi Colin
We use a mixture of the methods suggested. I cut a length of decking slightly longer than the distance of the two wheels,bevelled one end and screwed 3x2 block at the other end, then the wheels ride up onto this to increase height by approx 1",if greater height is needed we add the yellow plastic blocks on top of the decking.Also drilled a hole in the end of the decking which accepts a metal rock peg, and that stops the wood slipping while the caravan is going up it.
We use a mixture of the methods suggested. I cut a length of decking slightly longer than the distance of the two wheels,bevelled one end and screwed 3x2 block at the other end, then the wheels ride up onto this to increase height by approx 1",if greater height is needed we add the yellow plastic blocks on top of the decking.Also drilled a hole in the end of the decking which accepts a metal rock peg, and that stops the wood slipping while the caravan is going up it.
WOW! You guys really are inventive with great ideas. I'm spoilt for choice. Thanks for the info.
Colin.
Colin.
I use two standard ramps of the orange recycled type (don't know the brand name).
What I do is to set them out in line with the front wheel of the low side of the van. Set the distance between the ramps (pitch)to the same as the distance betwen the van axles. 40 inches in my case.
Then I drive forward up and over the first ramp, the continue up the second ramp until level is reached.
Chock the wheels and apply parking brake before un hitching.
Steve L.
What I do is to set them out in line with the front wheel of the low side of the van. Set the distance between the ramps (pitch)to the same as the distance betwen the van axles. 40 inches in my case.
Then I drive forward up and over the first ramp, the continue up the second ramp until level is reached.
Chock the wheels and apply parking brake before un hitching.
Steve L.
Well, just returned and oh! what fun we had. We did take two yellow ramps along with half a timber yard thinking we had it all covered, - wrong!!!
We did not anticipate the fence at the rear of a reserved disabled pitch (for the inlaws) that was only just long enough for the van, so there was no chance of reversing back and driving forward onto the levellers. Never mind - we'll pitch on the angle. So we jacked it up and stacked planks of wood under the wheel - fine, even reaching over and through the blackberries, stinging nettles and wire fence to wind down the offside rear steady onto stacker pads.
"Hang on" says Christine, - "at this angle the awning corner will extend over the road!!!" - she has her uses!!
"No problem I'll swing it round a touch", so up with the steadies and engage the mover. That looks better, until I came to wind down the offside rear steady again which was now directly in line with a fence post and could not be accessed with the steady winder, hmm? So it had to be a wheel brace and short extension with lots of patience.
The new awning went up a dream and this was all followed 2hrs later by a cool beer sitting in the sunshine.
Yes we had a great week away and thanks to all for the advice.
Colin. - Orpington.
P.S. Next purchase - paid of wind up wheel lifters
We did not anticipate the fence at the rear of a reserved disabled pitch (for the inlaws) that was only just long enough for the van, so there was no chance of reversing back and driving forward onto the levellers. Never mind - we'll pitch on the angle. So we jacked it up and stacked planks of wood under the wheel - fine, even reaching over and through the blackberries, stinging nettles and wire fence to wind down the offside rear steady onto stacker pads.
"Hang on" says Christine, - "at this angle the awning corner will extend over the road!!!" - she has her uses!!
"No problem I'll swing it round a touch", so up with the steadies and engage the mover. That looks better, until I came to wind down the offside rear steady again which was now directly in line with a fence post and could not be accessed with the steady winder, hmm? So it had to be a wheel brace and short extension with lots of patience.
The new awning went up a dream and this was all followed 2hrs later by a cool beer sitting in the sunshine.
Yes we had a great week away and thanks to all for the advice.
Colin. - Orpington.
P.S. Next purchase - paid of wind up wheel lifters
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