i wish to fit a 240 vac AMMETER to my caravan to measure the current we are using when on site, it's embarrasing when you trip out the electrical hook up bollard for overloading. can any supply advise or a drawing, i have a good grasp of electrics i just need reassurance.
How to fit an ammeter ?
- Thread starter ray_374348051
- Start date
I have bought a mains "meter" that looks like one of those electronic timers but will tell you what the voltage is from the supply, and also what the current is being drawn from whateve is plugged in.
I use it mainly inside the van, but have made myself a set of leads so I could plug into the site hookup have this box in line and then plug the van into that. (the box was bought from a shop like Maplin Elecronics of similar for about a tenner. (See link)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=38343&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=mains current meter&doy=18m2
hope this helps
I use it mainly inside the van, but have made myself a set of leads so I could plug into the site hookup have this box in line and then plug the van into that. (the box was bought from a shop like Maplin Elecronics of similar for about a tenner. (See link)
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Module.aspx?ModuleNo=38343&C=Maplin&U=SearchTop&T=mains current meter&doy=18m2
hope this helps
Ray,
Ammeters need to be inserted into a circuit, so they become "a part of" the live feed wire - and measure the current flowing in that wire. Unlike Voltmeters which are used across the supply and measure the difference between live and return.
What ammeter have you bought? Were you thinking of using a DIY multi-meter on the current setting? or a "clamp-on" meter? or have you bought a commercial meter system with a remote (low voltage) display?
"Clamp on" AC meters that detect the current flowing in the wire from outside - without breaking into the circuit - are safe, but reasonably expensive, and not particularly accurate (most are intended for use with 100's of amps - and not trying to differentiate between 4 and 5 Amps)...
And there are some issues here: An "in-line" ammeter would need to be inserted between the EHU socket and the caravan MCB / RCD "fuse box" - so that you measure the total current flowing into the caravan - and that's not an ideal situation for a DIY project.
Why? Because if you want to read the meter display, that needs to be somewhere convenient - and the foot or two of cable that links the EHU socket to the "fuse box" won't be. And extending the live wire isn't a good idea.
It would be OK if you have a sealed meter with a remote (low voltage and safe) display.
Hobby multi-meters just aren't meant for this type of use (no possibility of permanent connection - and connectors that easily pull out are "lethal")
If you insert the ammeter after the "fuse box" then you'll only measure that circuit, and not the total...
Thinking further on this, a project that involves inserting a meter into the 240 volt AC supply, before the MCB and RCD trips - and asking how you could do this - are not a great combination.
It might be best for this to be done professionally...
Robert
Ammeters need to be inserted into a circuit, so they become "a part of" the live feed wire - and measure the current flowing in that wire. Unlike Voltmeters which are used across the supply and measure the difference between live and return.
What ammeter have you bought? Were you thinking of using a DIY multi-meter on the current setting? or a "clamp-on" meter? or have you bought a commercial meter system with a remote (low voltage) display?
"Clamp on" AC meters that detect the current flowing in the wire from outside - without breaking into the circuit - are safe, but reasonably expensive, and not particularly accurate (most are intended for use with 100's of amps - and not trying to differentiate between 4 and 5 Amps)...
And there are some issues here: An "in-line" ammeter would need to be inserted between the EHU socket and the caravan MCB / RCD "fuse box" - so that you measure the total current flowing into the caravan - and that's not an ideal situation for a DIY project.
Why? Because if you want to read the meter display, that needs to be somewhere convenient - and the foot or two of cable that links the EHU socket to the "fuse box" won't be. And extending the live wire isn't a good idea.
It would be OK if you have a sealed meter with a remote (low voltage and safe) display.
Hobby multi-meters just aren't meant for this type of use (no possibility of permanent connection - and connectors that easily pull out are "lethal")
If you insert the ammeter after the "fuse box" then you'll only measure that circuit, and not the total...
Thinking further on this, a project that involves inserting a meter into the 240 volt AC supply, before the MCB and RCD trips - and asking how you could do this - are not a great combination.
It might be best for this to be done professionally...
Robert
Robert,
My "system" was only ever to be use outside as a temporary measure as it isn't waterproof, but I mainly used it inside to monitor voltage. We only have two mains sockets in our van and I have measured all current consumtion at home so I know how many appliances I can use at once (ie NOT the water heater and the kettle at the same time !!)
Maybe I should make one in a waterproof box and market it !!
Dragon's Den here I come
My "system" was only ever to be use outside as a temporary measure as it isn't waterproof, but I mainly used it inside to monitor voltage. We only have two mains sockets in our van and I have measured all current consumtion at home so I know how many appliances I can use at once (ie NOT the water heater and the kettle at the same time !!)
Maybe I should make one in a waterproof box and market it !!
Dragon's Den here I come
Hi Rubix,
I remember a programmable ammeter that was advertised last year (or before) which had a remote display, was installed between the EHU and the "fuse box" and could be programmed to trip out at a set current, and cost around
I remember a programmable ammeter that was advertised last year (or before) which had a remote display, was installed between the EHU and the "fuse box" and could be programmed to trip out at a set current, and cost around
That's why I measured all the seperate current readings of all the appliances whilst at home. I even switched off the battery charger to make sure I had everything sperately to be sure.
The kettle and the water heater draw the most and then there is only the fridge, battery charger, and whetever else we plug in (lantern for the awning, and the radio).
If you have a modern van with all the mod cons like the starship enterprise you might reach 16 A quite quickly !!!
We don't
The kettle and the water heater draw the most and then there is only the fridge, battery charger, and whetever else we plug in (lantern for the awning, and the radio).
If you have a modern van with all the mod cons like the starship enterprise you might reach 16 A quite quickly !!!
We don't
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