When using a levelling ramp should the caravan always be backed up the ramp or can the caravan be pulled forward up the ramp? When I recently pulled the caravan up a ramp, on unhitching the caravan (with the caravan brake applied) the caravan rolled down the ramp causing the caravan to turn as it did so.It seems that the wheel not on the ramp was locked with the brake but the wheel on the ramp was not.....Where am I going wrong?
Levelling ramps
- Thread starter Danddandy
- Start date
Hi There,
It reads as though you have experienced is the automatic reversing feature working. However even though it might be the auto feature working, it may be wise to get the brakes checked.
Its always wise to chock the wheels before unhitching.
It reads as though you have experienced is the automatic reversing feature working. However even though it might be the auto feature working, it may be wise to get the brakes checked.
Its always wise to chock the wheels before unhitching.
Yes,Thanks for that although the caravan is a brand new Baily. . Actually it is my sister's caravan. . .Would you or anyone know if there is a levelling ramp suitable for my twin axle?
Hi Danddandy
Most odd.
The automatic reversing system will operate if you reverse up your ramps but not if you go forward. Reversing up usually allows far more travel of the handbrake than needed and hence the tendancy not to hold.Puliing the caravan up the ramps, providing you haven't just reversed will enable the handbrake to work correctly. Don't forget you should also chock both wheels before unhitching.
On our TA we carry four 28mm thick planks, bevelled at the leading edge, for levelling.
Steve in Leo has another excellent method using ramps but I can't find it just now. I'm sure Steve or Parksy will explain.
Most odd.
The automatic reversing system will operate if you reverse up your ramps but not if you go forward. Reversing up usually allows far more travel of the handbrake than needed and hence the tendancy not to hold.Puliing the caravan up the ramps, providing you haven't just reversed will enable the handbrake to work correctly. Don't forget you should also chock both wheels before unhitching.
On our TA we carry four 28mm thick planks, bevelled at the leading edge, for levelling.
Steve in Leo has another excellent method using ramps but I can't find it just now. I'm sure Steve or Parksy will explain.
Thanks Dustydog. . .For my twin axle I have used two Fiamma ramps with one cut short so it fits between the wheels. . I then reverse up using the caravan mover. .I then apply the brake but also leave the mover engaged as an added precaution.. .However occasionly I need more lift. . Like you say longer planks of wood under the ramps would give more lift but we take too much "stuff" with us as it is!. . and when we don't use it we bring it back home again!
Hi Dandy.
Here's my method of using ramps, it can be used just as effectively for both single or twin axle vans.
First off always pull forward up ramps, for the reason that Dusty has pointed out.
A couple of safety points.
If you chock between the front and rear wheel of a twin axle van. Use either chocks with rope lines attatched, or use a long handled paint roller handle/frame to hook the chocks out, thus avoiding trapping fingers.
Use your OH or a fellow caravanner to act as "banksman", to guide you up the ramps and keep an eye on progress and any people walking too close.
I can supply a single handed method if required as well.
I would also have a trial run just to test the theory before you go on site. It helps to deflate the "gongoozeler's" and give the proffessional impression.
Good luck.
Here's my method of using ramps, it can be used just as effectively for both single or twin axle vans.
First off always pull forward up ramps, for the reason that Dusty has pointed out.
- Position your caravan on the pitch 18" (single axle) or 40" (twin axle) to the rear of where you want to end up.
- Position the ramp in front of the wheel of the side to be raised.
- For twin axles only. position the second ramp 40" in front of the 1st ramp (or the distance between the center of the two wheels).
- Drive forward in 1st gear (both manual and automatic gearboxes). up and over the first ramp and then up sufficiently to get the van level.
- Apply the caravan brake and chock all the wheels on the van to prevent roll back.
- Now uncouple and level the van front to back as normal using the jockey wheel.
- To leave your pitck, hook up and drive forward over the ramps and collect them after clearing the pitch.
A couple of safety points.
If you chock between the front and rear wheel of a twin axle van. Use either chocks with rope lines attatched, or use a long handled paint roller handle/frame to hook the chocks out, thus avoiding trapping fingers.
Use your OH or a fellow caravanner to act as "banksman", to guide you up the ramps and keep an eye on progress and any people walking too close.
I can supply a single handed method if required as well.
I would also have a trial run just to test the theory before you go on site. It helps to deflate the "gongoozeler's" and give the proffessional impression.
Good luck.
With my present van I tend to reverse up the ramp as with a front mounted mover and limited ground clearance (Reich) the mover tends to sometimes get in the way if pulling up the ramp. I have never had any problem with brake slip but I do always put the handbrake on hard and chock the wheels before unhitching.
Its easier & kinder on the car clutch to pull the van up the ramps,but as you have found out the hand brake does not come on fully due to the auto reverse mechanism.so you must chock the wheels before un hitching.
to see how the auto reverse works,if you pull on the hand brake on the van & then push it backwards you will find that the van will move a short distance & then the handbrake lever will shoot up into an upright position.In this position the handbrake is fully on.which is why the van will roll backwards off the ramps before the hand brake fully sets
personaly I use my mover to get on to the ramp & leaving it engaged until I have chocked the wheels & put down the steadies
to see how the auto reverse works,if you pull on the hand brake on the van & then push it backwards you will find that the van will move a short distance & then the handbrake lever will shoot up into an upright position.In this position the handbrake is fully on.which is why the van will roll backwards off the ramps before the hand brake fully sets
personaly I use my mover to get on to the ramp & leaving it engaged until I have chocked the wheels & put down the steadies
TD42 how do you use the mover, whenever I have tried the van slews sideways even when I input very small rotations with the controller?
Hi Clive
The Powrtouch on my unit works ok with one side going up the ramps. Maybe you could try leaning on the caravan to stop the slewing?
The Powrtouch on my unit works ok with one side going up the ramps. Maybe you could try leaning on the caravan to stop the slewing?
I'm quite suprised that the motor movers are so low to the road surface that one can't use a plastic caravan ramp at the front of the caravan wheels. I would question the fitting design of the mover manufacturer, because if you can't get a 3" ramp between the mover and the ground, you won't clear any speed ramps??!!
I have a pair of slim milenco ramps that rise up to 3" and a pair of those orange recycled plastic ramps that go up to 5". By placeing the slim ones infront of the wheel first and slipping the tapered tip of the orange ramp under the slim one, you can reduce the steep, short climb up the orange ones. Thus avoiding grounding out on the mover, and avoiding having to carry long wooden planks that reduce the capacity for tinnies in the fridge.
From a safety point of view, having the caravan hooked to the car significantly increases control of the situation as the car acts as an anchor and has a good handbrake, plus you could leave the car "in gear" with the engine turned off. Thus providing 4 wheel stationary braking.
I have a pair of slim milenco ramps that rise up to 3" and a pair of those orange recycled plastic ramps that go up to 5". By placeing the slim ones infront of the wheel first and slipping the tapered tip of the orange ramp under the slim one, you can reduce the steep, short climb up the orange ones. Thus avoiding grounding out on the mover, and avoiding having to carry long wooden planks that reduce the capacity for tinnies in the fridge.
From a safety point of view, having the caravan hooked to the car significantly increases control of the situation as the car acts as an anchor and has a good handbrake, plus you could leave the car "in gear" with the engine turned off. Thus providing 4 wheel stationary braking.
I tend to use sections of scaffold boards with chamfered ends & varying lenghts 3ft down to 1ft laying the longest length first & so on until I get the height I need.I some times find it helps to push against the side of the van to compensate the slew
We have a twin axle and use the yellow ramps. Most times I reverse up the ramp as we have a motor mover fitted. On one side you chock the wheel behind and on the ramp side in front. Stops the caravan swinging and rolling partly off the ramp before the handbrake activates.
Steveinleo,
The mover is a Reich Control and has been on the van for 6 years. Whilst it is probably the lowest mover around I have never had a problem with speed ramps, ferrries etc, or grounding on rough sites. The problem stems from my 11 year old recycled 5 inch high (and narrow), ramps which are due to be further recycled at the end of this season with new ones which are already on the Xmas list for the kids to buy.
The mover is a Reich Control and has been on the van for 6 years. Whilst it is probably the lowest mover around I have never had a problem with speed ramps, ferrries etc, or grounding on rough sites. The problem stems from my 11 year old recycled 5 inch high (and narrow), ramps which are due to be further recycled at the end of this season with new ones which are already on the Xmas list for the kids to buy.
My wife bought a pair of cheap ramps from a work colleague. we didn't bother to check them fully until we arrived on site and needed to use them. They had to be filled with water or sand, so obviously we used water as no sand available. When we filled the first one we noticed it had a hole in it. i said to other half put it hole side up it will be alright. When i started to pull up on to it a jet of water shot out like a water cannon, luckily the wife was stood in just the right place to stop the water going all over the site. For some reason she was not best amused!!!!
I have had a casual look at the motor movers on the vans on site where I am and haven't found any that would impead the use of plastic ramps. I thought I'd do this because my van has an A frame mounted motormover ET which I only use for tight manouvers in storage, and because it's portable, I can store it in my shed.
I realy don't see why one would reverse up ramps as this put's two extra loads upon the clutch of the tow car. Firstly because reverse gear is higher ratio and often closer to 2nd gear, thus adding stress to the clutch pressure plate. Secondly there is additional force needed to overcome the brake's initial locking on, before the mechanisum releases.
Next is the safety aspects.
By reversing you realy need a banks person to guide you on site and to keep pedestrians away. The safest way is to, drive on and drive off, if it can be done. Also by driving forward up the ramps you can see clearly where you are going and only need the banksman to stop you at the required level on the ramp. Also by using 1st gear you will have the greatest control over your outfit.
I realy don't see why one would reverse up ramps as this put's two extra loads upon the clutch of the tow car. Firstly because reverse gear is higher ratio and often closer to 2nd gear, thus adding stress to the clutch pressure plate. Secondly there is additional force needed to overcome the brake's initial locking on, before the mechanisum releases.
Next is the safety aspects.
By reversing you realy need a banks person to guide you on site and to keep pedestrians away. The safest way is to, drive on and drive off, if it can be done. Also by driving forward up the ramps you can see clearly where you are going and only need the banksman to stop you at the required level on the ramp. Also by using 1st gear you will have the greatest control over your outfit.
Surprised no one so far has mentioned also fitting the Alko security wheel lock. I have also experienced the slewing problem when using the mover, but with the wheel lock to attach, always a precision job at best, I found it impossible to fit if a ramp was required either side. Have now resolved the matter entirely this season with the use of a proprietry bottle jack via dedicated brackets on the chassis. I have now got the process of jacking the van, fitting the wheel lock and lowering to the appropriate level via my collection of timber packing blocks off to a tee. When leaving the pitch I just hitch up and carefully draw forward off the blocks. Simples....
PS The Alko jack supplied with the van was next to useless. This has now gone to that Ebay in the sky!
PS The Alko jack supplied with the van was next to useless. This has now gone to that Ebay in the sky!
I'm a bit late joining this thread, but a tip I was given to stop the van slewing when using a mover to mount a ramp is to keep the jockey wheel "locked" when unhitching - that is keep the wheel mountings engaged in the slot in the outer tube. This way there is more resistance to turning so you may not need to lean on the corner of the van or the A frame.
Jimbo
Jimbo
That's a usefull tip Jimbo. My only reservation would be relying on the clamp to hold the jockey wheel post.
I probably would still opt to tow the van up and chock wheels, at least the van would still be hitched to the car, and if you put pull cords on the chocks and use a stick to position them you will avoid finger traping as well.
Only this weekend, I saw a guy get his clutch smoking a treat on his 308 trying to back his van up a ramp. At anything from £500 to £2'000 for a clutch change, it can be an expensive choice.
Having to put up with arthritic shoulders & elbows and degraded virtabrae & disc's in my back, I have over the years had to find alternative ways to bending down or BF&I muscle power. I know what it feels like to have your arms and legs working but the main chassis cracking up
.
I probably would still opt to tow the van up and chock wheels, at least the van would still be hitched to the car, and if you put pull cords on the chocks and use a stick to position them you will avoid finger traping as well.
Only this weekend, I saw a guy get his clutch smoking a treat on his 308 trying to back his van up a ramp. At anything from £500 to £2'000 for a clutch change, it can be an expensive choice.
Having to put up with arthritic shoulders & elbows and degraded virtabrae & disc's in my back, I have over the years had to find alternative ways to bending down or BF&I muscle power. I know what it feels like to have your arms and legs working but the main chassis cracking up
I have seen owners of twin axle vans levelling them by raising only one wheel. They must be oblivious to the potential dammage to tyre and suspension.
We have a twin axle and a set of orange ramps (4 height jobbies) which are tied together on the highest end with some nylon rope. This is about 6 inches long. When placed back to back I can reverse up and over them and get the 1st height on both wheels. By spreading them out progessively I get the other heights. A 6" gap doesn't cause me any issues reversing over. Once in place, handbrake on and chock wheels on the other side of the van. Unhitch and level front to back with jockey wheel. Legs down. Kettle on. Job done.
BTW, no mover fitted so no issues with the mover catching the ramps. Never needed one and prefer to use the weight for beer & pies.
Dom.
BTW. Cheap solution for wheel chocks. Buy (scrounge) a length of 4"x4" timber. You need about 18" of it. Cut in half at a 45 degree angle. Hey presto - 2 chocks.
BTW, no mover fitted so no issues with the mover catching the ramps. Never needed one and prefer to use the weight for beer & pies.
Dom.
BTW. Cheap solution for wheel chocks. Buy (scrounge) a length of 4"x4" timber. You need about 18" of it. Cut in half at a 45 degree angle. Hey presto - 2 chocks.
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