mini-blade fuses - sort of

[ChrisUK]

When my Xtrail T31, had a tow bar and electrics fitted, it was months later (now two years) that I noticed that the supply feed to the rear to charge the van battery was only about 1mm cross sectional area, it works, but not really big enough. The fitter used a 25A mini blade fuse that I have not come across before, or can find on the internet.
It plugs into a spare fuse holder under the dash, but the fuse itself is at right angles to where it would normally be, and incorporates a tap off to a 1mm cable which is about 4 inches long, the cable to the rear is than connected to it.
I am trying to identify the mini-fuse blade / tap off device, firstly as I should have a spare, but also because I would like to rewire with bigger cable to reduce volts drop.
Does this device ring any bells?
I would prefer to take a relayed / fused cable direct from the car battery, but being a modern car this seems imposable, the bulk head being so crowded.

 

[Chris_Hyde_Cheshire.]

Chris, mini blade fuses are readily available from most accessory shops, and on ebay you can get a 120 piece assorted set for about £5 - £6. On ebay there are also a selection of the "tap off" devices too.

When I fitted the tow bar to my C-Max, I had a struggle getting to the Fuse box / battery too. Eventually I pierced a large double skinned grommit with a spike, put an empty pen through and then threaded my cable through the pen. I then simply pulled the pen through and removed it from the other side. I then was able to connect direct to the battery via a fuse.

Hope this helps...........

 

[ChrisUK]

Thank you, I found it under "Mini Blade Fuse Piggy Back By Pass Connector" hidden amongst hundreds off mini blade fuse adds on eBay.
Unfortunately my bulkhead does not have any visible rubber grommets, From a poor harness diagram and inspection, the wiring disapears at a high level under the dash then in the engine compartment it seems to appear from out of steel box sections. In past cars I have drilled a hole, but the engine side is too crowded with turbo etc.
At least I have found my spare. Thanks.

 

[xtrailman]

You need to run a minimun cable of 3mm,(40 strand thin skinned insulated) thats rated at about 27.5 amps.
Ideally two separate cables of 3mm should be run to the voltage sensitive relay, and to the battery directly via fuses, fitted adjacent to the battery.
One cable for the charger, the other for the fridge.

 

[ChrisUK]

You need to run a minimun cable of 3mm,(40 strand thin skinned insulated) thats rated at about 27.5 amps.
Ideally two separate cables of 3mm should be run to the voltage sensitive relay, and to the battery directly via fuses, fitted adjacent to the battery.
One cable for the charger, the other for the fridge.

Thanks, the fitting of my tow bar and electrics was done by professional fitters a couple of years ago, but I kick my self as a retired electrical engineer that I did not inspect their work until several months later. The cabling was very neatly hidden behind large panels which I know maybe easy to get off, but a pig to put back. They used 1mm cable and a simple isolating relay for the charging cct. It does however work as such.
We go on extended holidays of up to 8 weeks without EHU so for the last two years I have used a second leisure battery in the boot which is charged up as we tour around, then I use an inverter with a Lidls charger plugged in to charge the caravan battery. This works OK, but till now I have used a tap off the caravan charging cct with a volts sensing relay I fitted to charge the 2nd leisure battery. I want to put energy back into the battery more effectively, less volts drop with a good independent supply.
The two leisure batteries are never connected in parallel.
Although we tow to Scotland, the towing time is insignificant to the touring solo time.
In the past I have wired my own electrics with heavy cable, I wish I had done this time. If we go back to foreign touring I would have to rewire the fridge supply with some 3mm.
A connection to the car battery is my ideal, but unless someone out there has found a way though the bulkhead on a 2008 XTrail, I can’t. I am aware that it is much easier on the earlier T30 XTrail.

 

[xtrailman]

I had my 2009 T31 professionally wired.
I have a 3mm cable straight from the battery, via a adjacent fuse (25 amp), going to a 30amp boot mounted relay.
Also from the battery another cable fused 15 amp, i presume for the road lights.
A single 3mm is the minimum size cable to prevent voltage drop.

So there is a route through the bulkhead.

It is recommend if the "larger" type fridge now being used in some caravans is fitted, that two 3mm cables be used.
I also had the Nissan specific wiring for the road lights, very expensive, but recommend with the can bus system.

I don't think its worth the hassle to fit or wire diy anymore, both of which i have done in the past.

 

[ChrisUK]

I had my 2009 T31 professionally wired.
I have a 3mm cable straight from the battery, via a adjacent fuse (25 amp), going to a 30amp boot mounted relay.
Also from the battery another cable fused 15 amp, i presume for the road lights.
A single 3mm is the minimum size cable to prevent voltage drop.

So there is a route through the bulkhead.

It is recommend if the "larger" type fridge now being used in some caravans is fitted, that two 3mm cables be used.
I also had the Nissan specific wiring for the road lights, very expensive, but recommend with the can bus system.

I don't think its worth the hassle to fit or wire diy anymore, both of which i have done in the past.

Thank you (odd I replied to this about 2 hours ago but it has disappeared) The wiring from the battery, could you tell me please which way it seems to go on leaving the battery, this may give me a clue as to where to look. I understand on the T30 there is a route which ends up behind the glove box, but it is not the same on the T31 and there is the SAT nav in the way.

Chris

 

[xtrailman]

Sorry about the delay in replying.
Been busy rewiring part of the house ring main.
washed the car today and had a look.
The cables come out under the air filter box, looks like they have come out with the wiring loom.
But it looks very cramped there, i would guess that a draw wire has been pushed from inside the car.

 

[ChrisUK]

Sorry about the delay in replying.
Been busy rewiring part of the house ring main.
washed the car today and had a look.
The cables come out under the air filter box, looks like they have come out with the wiring loom.
But it looks very cramped there, i would guess that a draw wire has been pushed from inside the car.

Thanks, I will have a look tomorrow and when it stop raining. The wire would then end up I think behind the glove box which could be a problem with the SAT nav. Still I will have a go. Especially as I measured the volts at the over the knee fuse box at 11.9 Volts, and on the battery teminals at 12.3 V, so the basic nissan wiring is not particulary good.
Perhaps the air box has to come out, I will look into this.
Thanks for the clue.