How easy/hard is it to fit a motor mover? Just bought an Adria caravan which previous owners had a mover fitted but they removed it before trading it in.
Motor Mover self install?
- Thread starter Len_Cuff
- Start date
It's not that difficult. Getting beneath the van is the hardest part and the units can be quite heavy to manhandle on your own. I fitted mine to my first van. No drilling req to fit, just the holes for the cable entry points. Thing is if you fit your own (purpleline/Ego) the warranty is not as good. Also if you get a deal, like I did then fitting is quite often included. I would recommend the chap who fitted the one I have now and I could not beat his price anywhere, not even supply only.
If you are reasonably handy at DIY there is no real problem. Tip the caravan to get maximum access to (usually) the front of the axle and make sure it is secure, brake on, wheels chocked and well supported in addition to the steadies.
Assemble the mover with all bolts only finger tight on a sheet of thick plastic in front of the caravan and then pull the whole thing under the van to the approximate position required.
Then lift one side - ideally with a trolley jack and attach to the chassis. when confident this side is secure, repeat for the other side. You will have to jiggle it about to get the correct roller to tyre clearance and sometimes this is easier by having the u bolts just gripping and tapping gently with a rubber mallet. Tighten each side in turn and check the gaps constantly. It is important that they are the same. Some mover makers supply a piece of wood to act as a gauge for this process - it should be sufficiently tight to hold itself in place but not too tight to remove by hand.
I should have said it may be easier to do the cable runs first, although this will depend on the van. I use flexible electrical conduit tube and pipe clips to keep the job neat - see www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk or similar suppliers.
Hope this helps. It's quite satisfying to fit your own and at least you know were all the joints and adjustments are for later servicing.
Assemble the mover with all bolts only finger tight on a sheet of thick plastic in front of the caravan and then pull the whole thing under the van to the approximate position required.
Then lift one side - ideally with a trolley jack and attach to the chassis. when confident this side is secure, repeat for the other side. You will have to jiggle it about to get the correct roller to tyre clearance and sometimes this is easier by having the u bolts just gripping and tapping gently with a rubber mallet. Tighten each side in turn and check the gaps constantly. It is important that they are the same. Some mover makers supply a piece of wood to act as a gauge for this process - it should be sufficiently tight to hold itself in place but not too tight to remove by hand.
I should have said it may be easier to do the cable runs first, although this will depend on the van. I use flexible electrical conduit tube and pipe clips to keep the job neat - see www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk or similar suppliers.
Hope this helps. It's quite satisfying to fit your own and at least you know were all the joints and adjustments are for later servicing.
I am in Dorset - tho from Lincoln originally, too may years ago to admit to. The guy I used is in Derby and he came down to the dealers in Wilts to fit and as I said at a price that I could not get anywhere else for supply only! can give you his No if you want and you can talk to him.
Seeing all the required holes have been drilled for the previous mover then the install should be a little easier.
Often diy only saves £50 to £100, so you have to access whether its worth it.
Often diy only saves £50 to £100, so you have to access whether its worth it.
It's not just a matter of cost when deciding whether to self fit. I fitted a mover to my last 'van running the cables in flexible conduit, clipping securely, fitting the control box where it wouldn't get damaged or in the way, fitting junction boxes to the battery wiring inside the 'van to take the mover feed from, thereby keeping the battery leads tidy and flexible etc. etc. The dealer transferred the mover to my new van and I have to say it's not half the job I did. That's apart from all the mounting bolts being left finger tight so the first time I tried to wind the mover on it simply slid along the chassis rails! 
Just about to install a Truma onto our "new" Bailey Pageant Champagne. I've taken it off and put on two 'vans now. I had to fit new grit rollers first as they were a little worn. Chris has just answered a question I had. Easy to route the cables from outside to inside, but always had problems getting the red and black feed back out to the battery box. Its cramped in there and I want to "break into" the main feeds already inside the 'van. I'll do as Chris just said and use a 30 amp junction box to do this.As an aside, go very careful with tightening the pinch bolts on the crossover shaft and the middle bar! Over tighten and the weld will fracture, not enough and the crossover shaft can come off the 'van! Only my experience, so I pass this on as a precaution only.
Damian
Moderator
A word of caution over "breaking into" the 12v cables from the battery already installed.
If any of the mover manufacturers had though that it was Ok to such a thing, they would have included that info in the fitting instructions.
They have NOT, therefore it has to be taken that it is NOT acceptable to do such a thing and they state quite clearly that the mover cables MUST be connected direct to the battery.
If any of the mover manufacturers had though that it was Ok to such a thing, they would have included that info in the fitting instructions.
They have NOT, therefore it has to be taken that it is NOT acceptable to do such a thing and they state quite clearly that the mover cables MUST be connected direct to the battery.
when the power cables have been fed in to the battery box don't forget to seal the entry hole. malc
Damian-Moderator said:
I quite understand why the mover manufacturer says connection must be made straight to the battery, they have no knowledge or control of the cable size of the existing battery leads. However, providing the correct sized cable and junction boxes are used and all connections are properly made, I maintain there is no problem taking the feed from an internal junction box.
Seeing the size of motor mover cables I'm not sure if they would fit into the connectors of a domestic 32A junction box.
Damian
Moderator
Quote "I maintain there is no problem taking the feed from an internal junction box"
You may think it is OK, however there is an Approved Code of Practice regarding the fitting of movers which has been agreed by all the major mover manufacturers and the Electrical Safety body which does not advocate your thoughts.
Therefore, should any mishap occur due to overloading the caravan wiring which you have cut into, it is not covered by any warranty.
To quote from the Installation instructions:
"The wiring and cabling supplied by Powrtouch for the installation of the unit are to the correct voltage and current ratings , under no circumstances should any other wiring or cabling be used unless supplied by Powrtouch or written approval is given for their usage."
You may think it is OK, however there is an Approved Code of Practice regarding the fitting of movers which has been agreed by all the major mover manufacturers and the Electrical Safety body which does not advocate your thoughts.
Therefore, should any mishap occur due to overloading the caravan wiring which you have cut into, it is not covered by any warranty.
To quote from the Installation instructions:
"The wiring and cabling supplied by Powrtouch for the installation of the unit are to the correct voltage and current ratings , under no circumstances should any other wiring or cabling be used unless supplied by Powrtouch or written approval is given for their usage."
Providing the original battery cables are the same or larger than the motor mover cables, then splicing off them is perfectly acceptable.
Options for the connections are line connectors, or a connector block as used for household meter connections.
http://www.qvsdirect.com/100a-double-pole-5-way-mains-meter-connector-block?utm_source=google&utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_campaign=googlebase&gclid=CPGgtrD7870CFUTHtAods2oApw
I also agree that a DIY install will always be fitted more conscientiously than a independent installer.
However any problems arising afterwards may be resolved quicker if the install was professional.
Options for the connections are line connectors, or a connector block as used for household meter connections.
http://www.qvsdirect.com/100a-double-pole-5-way-mains-meter-connector-block?utm_source=google&utm_medium=googleshopping&utm_campaign=googlebase&gclid=CPGgtrD7870CFUTHtAods2oApw
I also agree that a DIY install will always be fitted more conscientiously than a independent installer.
However any problems arising afterwards may be resolved quicker if the install was professional.
xtrailman said:
Whist I do accept that SOME so called 'professional' fitters may not take less care as a DIY'er, There will be good and bad from both sides of the issue, but on balance I have to make the point that as a professional gas and electrical fitter I found more incompetent installations done by DIY'ers than professionals.
I notice that on some new 12 volt leisure batteries the manufacturers now fit second poles, and actually refer to them as mover terminals thus making provision to keep the-electrical draw for the mover completely independent of all other wiring and direct to the battery
Damian
Moderator
Quote " Providing the original battery cables are the same or larger than the motor mover cables, then splicing off them is perfectly acceptable."
It may be to you, but it is not acceptable by any of the mover manufacturers ,or ACoPS for Installation of Movers
Nowhere in any of the mover Installation Instructions does it say anything about it being acceptable to do so, and all in fact state that the connection must be direct from the battery to the control box.
It may be to you, but it is not acceptable by any of the mover manufacturers ,or ACoPS for Installation of Movers
Nowhere in any of the mover Installation Instructions does it say anything about it being acceptable to do so, and all in fact state that the connection must be direct from the battery to the control box.
I've fitted my mover today and all works well. Two things i'd like clarification of please is: I want to fit a isolation switch and a fuse in the positive side. I know where to buy a switch, but I'm not sure about what type fuse and where to buy one from. Is there a preferred order on the cable for them both? No doubt Damion will let me know if he reads this question? Terry.
Damian
Moderator
Hello Terry,
What make of mover do you have> if a Powrtouch it should have come complete with isolation switch and fuse(fuse already fitted in the Positive Cable between battery and isolator switch ).
If you do not have those items then you need a key operated isolation switch (normally fitted in the space above the mains inlet in the battery box with the connections inside the van)
The 80Amp fuse goes in the positive feed from the battery to the isolation switch but MUST be inside the van and NOT in the battery box.
The fuse must be contained within its own sealed box and rated at 80Amps.
If I can find a pic of one I will post later
What make of mover do you have> if a Powrtouch it should have come complete with isolation switch and fuse(fuse already fitted in the Positive Cable between battery and isolator switch ).
If you do not have those items then you need a key operated isolation switch (normally fitted in the space above the mains inlet in the battery box with the connections inside the van)
The 80Amp fuse goes in the positive feed from the battery to the isolation switch but MUST be inside the van and NOT in the battery box.
The fuse must be contained within its own sealed box and rated at 80Amps.
If I can find a pic of one I will post later
Hi Damion, no, never had a fuse in-line on it from the word go. It was fitted on a caravan back in 2009. I've just kept moving it ('skuse the pun!) from one 'van to the other. The original isolator switch and key has deteriorated so I'll replace that. I guess one of those blade type in-line fuse would do the job? Bit naughty not having one in the circuit!
Thank's for your advices, Terry.
Thank's for your advices, Terry.
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