New to caravan
- Thread starter Shaun&dawn
- Start date
Keep the caravan light and within its MTPLM. Heavy car-light caravan is my motto. Get your nose weight as close to maximum as possible. Whichever is the lower between car or caravan is the guide. Keep heavy items near the Center of the van and low down. I empty all tanks but have 2 litre in toilet waste tank and 1 litre in flush. Even with the best will in the world you will realise how quickly your payload gets used up. Two propane Calorlite =20kg. Typical mover 35kg. Battery 23kg for 100ah. It’s a good idea to weigh all of your stuff for a test loading then take the van to a weighbridge and see what it and the car and van comes out at. What is your car, cars kerbweight; gross vehicle weight, max towing load and caravans MTPLM? Is your Licence B or B/E?
Depending on your insurance conditions I use a lighter weight wheel lock and Alko hitch lock on site. But carry my Alko wheel lock just in case the van has to be left anywhere else. I never leave my van unattended in service areas even with locks on. Although if I had to travel alone there may be a need; but that’s one reason why the loo system has fluid in it; for en route stops.
You will notice a big change moving on from camping to a caravan but it still allows you to explore hidden away spots but be nice and warm when the weather is rubbish. Good luck.
PS Both of the Clubs have excellent technical help sheets on their websites.
Depending on your insurance conditions I use a lighter weight wheel lock and Alko hitch lock on site. But carry my Alko wheel lock just in case the van has to be left anywhere else. I never leave my van unattended in service areas even with locks on. Although if I had to travel alone there may be a need; but that’s one reason why the loo system has fluid in it; for en route stops.
You will notice a big change moving on from camping to a caravan but it still allows you to explore hidden away spots but be nice and warm when the weather is rubbish. Good luck.
PS Both of the Clubs have excellent technical help sheets on their websites.
I agree with the advice given by Other Clive although I would have put a mover at 30 kg.
As far as security is concerned you do need to follow your insurers requirements. Personally I have no faith in hitchlocks, and if the insurer does not require one, I would not bother. They can be bypassed quite easily with a strong chain or a fabricated frame and any thief will come prepared.
The ALKO wheel lock is the most secure but not infallible, but beyond many thieves. After that they should show Sold Secure Gold for the best.
If you want a mover the cheapest use a long lever to set them up and these can be hard work so if you are at a dealers I would ask to try one before you go ahead.. You can get a Purple Line version that you wind on using what is basically a leg winder and this is far easier to fit. After that there are automatic ones which are far easier and quite a lot more expensive.
For most jobs like hitching, siting the caravan and setting up check out you tube where there are lots of good videos.
As far as security is concerned you do need to follow your insurers requirements. Personally I have no faith in hitchlocks, and if the insurer does not require one, I would not bother. They can be bypassed quite easily with a strong chain or a fabricated frame and any thief will come prepared.
The ALKO wheel lock is the most secure but not infallible, but beyond many thieves. After that they should show Sold Secure Gold for the best.
If you want a mover the cheapest use a long lever to set them up and these can be hard work so if you are at a dealers I would ask to try one before you go ahead.. You can get a Purple Line version that you wind on using what is basically a leg winder and this is far easier to fit. After that there are automatic ones which are far easier and quite a lot more expensive.
For most jobs like hitching, siting the caravan and setting up check out you tube where there are lots of good videos.
Shop around for insurance quotes from the clubs and some of the accredited companies that advertise in the back pages of the magazine. Most will insist on some security devices which will generally reduce the cost anyway. True they are only deterrents but my policy insists on hitch lock, wheel lock, corner steady locks and locking wheel nut on the alloys. The company selling you the van should be able to advise and will sometimes throw in a 'starter pack' or sell you a lot of starter kit for a package price. Things like aquarolls soon add to the cost of starting out.
Get a thorough debrief when you collect your van - you may be able to record some techie bits on your mobile phone.
Enjoy your van and perhaps think of your first trip being somewhere reasonably local. You will always find fellow caravanners willing to help if you get stuck!
Get a thorough debrief when you collect your van - you may be able to record some techie bits on your mobile phone.
Enjoy your van and perhaps think of your first trip being somewhere reasonably local. You will always find fellow caravanners willing to help if you get stuck!
Thanks for the advice I have been thinking the same most things going in the car with the caravan at max MTPLM the car still has 150 kgto go before at limit Security thinking the more I have on the less inviting it will be
So looking forward to getting it just so pleased we did not have to pick it up this weekend lol
So looking forward to getting it just so pleased we did not have to pick it up this weekend lol
I’d agree. The aim
being to make any thieves move to something easier. In general there are very few caravan thefts from touring sites. Most occur at home or in storage.
What is your outfit?
being to make any thieves move to something easier. In general there are very few caravan thefts from touring sites. Most occur at home or in storage.
What is your outfit?
Just a note on the movers. If you end up with one that engages by a manual lever, a 2 foot extension tube really makes light work of the job. Its 6 inches over the regular lever, and 18 inches extra leverage bar. All you want is the mover to do its job; ie move the van. Anything above that; eg winder-type or automatic, is more cost and more to go wrong. This was pointed out by the guy that fit one for myself years ago. I couldn't argue with the notion.
Shaw and Dawn, welcome to the forum and slightly warmer outside life, the thing I would say about caravan , "Starter packs" they give you battery, water barrel, waste barrel, and normally a huge full size awning, do you need the huge awning. For you style of caravanning.
I would prefer to negotiate a £500 discount and go for a e bay one up for sale after you decide, I sold a £700 full awning for £50 after 4 years. As it didnt suit us.
But mostly, enjoy caravanning even in bad weather.
I would prefer to negotiate a £500 discount and go for a e bay one up for sale after you decide, I sold a £700 full awning for £50 after 4 years. As it didnt suit us.
But mostly, enjoy caravanning even in bad weather.
Parksy
Moderator
A slightly belated hello from me Shaun & Dawn, congratulations on switching from canvas to a tin tent 😊
There has been some good advice given and this website has lots of ideas, advice and tips.
My top tip is - when hitching the caravan to the car you will lift the hitch handle and lower the jockey wheel until the hitch handle clicks down to hitch the caravan.
To make absolutely sure that the caravan hitch is fully engaged, start to wind the jockey wheel down to the ground again.
If the hitch has engaged properly the hitch will start to lift the rear of the car on it's springs, so wind up, lift and lock the jockey wheel into place and connect the breakaway cable.
There have been numerous instances of hitches appearing to engage only for the caravan A frame to end up on the ground if the hitch hasn't gripped the towball.
Have fun 😊
There has been some good advice given and this website has lots of ideas, advice and tips.
My top tip is - when hitching the caravan to the car you will lift the hitch handle and lower the jockey wheel until the hitch handle clicks down to hitch the caravan.
To make absolutely sure that the caravan hitch is fully engaged, start to wind the jockey wheel down to the ground again.
If the hitch has engaged properly the hitch will start to lift the rear of the car on it's springs, so wind up, lift and lock the jockey wheel into place and connect the breakaway cable.
There have been numerous instances of hitches appearing to engage only for the caravan A frame to end up on the ground if the hitch hasn't gripped the towball.
Have fun 😊
Same here, bit late to this thread. The advice you have been given is spot on, learn all about weights and loading, If you arent used to towing, you will find that very often, the end of your journey is often down narrow lanes, and remember, your caravan is wider than your car. If you are haing to squeeze into the hedge, allow extra room for the caravan, dont base it on your cars width.
When you go off on your first trip, learn then about the things you need to carry, you can always buy there anything you havent got and need. Its far to easy to hit the nearest accessory shop and buy everything that looks interesting. Chances are most of it will finish up at the back of your garage.
One of the most important bits of kit is a £1 spirit level.
When you go off on your first trip, learn then about the things you need to carry, you can always buy there anything you havent got and need. Its far to easy to hit the nearest accessory shop and buy everything that looks interesting. Chances are most of it will finish up at the back of your garage.
One of the most important bits of kit is a £1 spirit level.
Thanks for all the replies
Got some more question picking the new caravan up on the 14th march so going away in it that night not to far from home just to make sure it all work if I put water in it will I have to get it all out again for frost
Got some more question picking the new caravan up on the 14th march so going away in it that night not to far from home just to make sure it all work if I put water in it will I have to get it all out again for frost
The simple answer is, yes.....and no - depending.
If you are unable, or would not consider keeping a bit of heat on, unless you are somewhere very south , i would drain it. But, if you can/would consider keeping some heat on (mines at 10-12 deg. - with the water system charged right now), you needn't drain it. The caveat to that being; as long as you have no pipes or tanks under/outside the unit that cannot be kept frost free.
Many wouldn't consider anything but draining if they are unused during winter - and mine is normally also 'dry'. But as it was recently charged for a service, i have now left it 'ready to roll', despite a small chance of some frost to come. But a) i am not new to the game, and b) i see it as a 'managed' risk at this time of year.
If you drain it, make sure EVERY bit of lying water is out of pipe runs. And that includes waste pipes.
I would drain it. Before you leave the site I would do this and then blow into the taps to remove any drops in there. Tow home with the drain valve open and this should remove any drops left in the pipes, if there are any.
If you drain it back home, do drop the nose after draining as far as possible, so that any water left runs out.
If you drain it back home, do drop the nose after draining as far as possible, so that any water left runs out.
Once the winter weather is forcast to be over, I just drain down the water system from the valves in the floor.
But in the winter after every time out, I blow out the water system with a home made version of the Floe drain down kit. Amazing how much water left in the pipes to freeze.
But in the winter after every time out, I blow out the water system with a home made version of the Floe drain down kit. Amazing how much water left in the pipes to freeze.
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