Hi this is my first post and I am new to caravanning so please be gentle with me if I seem to be asking the obvious. I have a Bailey Ranger 460/4 which has one working brake light. When it was serviced they checked it and said all was fine the fault was with the car. I have looked into my 12n and 12s sockets according to the manual the only pin connected to the braking is pin 6 connected to the red wire. Surely if there was a fault neither of the brake lights would work??? A confused caravaner could do with some help please. I am a novice but I have a Multi meter and I know how to use it lol. Thanks in advance.
Only one brake light working on my caravan?
- Thread starter BobSponge
- Start date
After you have checked the bulbs, check the contacts on your sockets, spread them open a bit with a small electrical screwdriver, and try to clean them with emery paper.
If that doesnt work the more advanced Teccies will be along to help you solve the problem.
Welcome to the forum by the way, and no question is a stupid question, so just ask away.
If that doesnt work the more advanced Teccies will be along to help you solve the problem.
Welcome to the forum by the way, and no question is a stupid question, so just ask away.
Bob
The rangers brake light bulb is a twin element which is also the rear light as is some cars. Before swooping the bulbs as suggested, use your MM and test the none working bulb on the ohms setting to see if you get continuity through both elements.
Also, with your car connected and the brake on, check if your getting 12v at the connector, remember this is twin, rear and brake lights. Check you do have a twin element bulb in there and not a single which will cause problems as it will fit in, trust me it will.
If your getting 12v then also test the rear light to ensure12v on both connectors in the rear light housing. The connectors do get weak and may need a gentle bending to get a good connection. Failing that, have a good look at the 12n wiring diagram and trace the wires concerned to make sure there are no breaks. Im sure the wireing is straight forward enough. If you pull the lamp connector out of its housing, be careful you the wires don't come off and disapear into the back panel but again I think you can still get at the wires from below the panel. I'm sure with a bit of though you can sort it
Good Luck, Bri
The rangers brake light bulb is a twin element which is also the rear light as is some cars. Before swooping the bulbs as suggested, use your MM and test the none working bulb on the ohms setting to see if you get continuity through both elements.
Also, with your car connected and the brake on, check if your getting 12v at the connector, remember this is twin, rear and brake lights. Check you do have a twin element bulb in there and not a single which will cause problems as it will fit in, trust me it will.
If your getting 12v then also test the rear light to ensure12v on both connectors in the rear light housing. The connectors do get weak and may need a gentle bending to get a good connection. Failing that, have a good look at the 12n wiring diagram and trace the wires concerned to make sure there are no breaks. Im sure the wireing is straight forward enough. If you pull the lamp connector out of its housing, be careful you the wires don't come off and disapear into the back panel but again I think you can still get at the wires from below the panel. I'm sure with a bit of though you can sort it
Good Luck, Bri
Hello Bob,
This link is to a web page that describes the functions of the pins in the 7 pin road lights plug and socket.
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/133/142/
Assuming pin 6 (red) becomes 12V positive with respect to pin 3 (white) -ve return when the foot bake is applied then both stop lights on the caravan should illuminate.
If only one comes on, it proves the cars wiring is OK, but it then suggests that either one of the bulbs on the caravan has blown or there is some fault with the carvans wiring. The Stop lights are usually wired in parallel, some manufactures simply put in a link wire between the light fittings in side the end wall of the caravan, others take it back to a terminal block.
Check the bulbs, either with your multimeter on continuity, or by swapping the bulbs over. If the falt switches sides, then its the bulb, but if the fault stays with same fitting, then its circuitry.
A very common problem with trailer electrics is corrosion in the light fittings and multipin plugs. It often worth pulling off and re-connecting any spade terminals and re-tightening any screw connections to break and clean corrosion away. The addition of a little Vasaline or grease to the spade before reconnecting can help to keep the contacts clean in the future. Its also worth looking at the bayonet sockets the bulb fits into, sometimes rust can set up just where the bulbs bayonet pins lock into the fitting and this can be just sufficient to break the electrical circuit and stop the bulb from working.
If none of that works, the it will be case of tracing your way back through the wiring to try and find any other possible faults.
This link is to a web page that describes the functions of the pins in the 7 pin road lights plug and socket.
http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/133/142/
Assuming pin 6 (red) becomes 12V positive with respect to pin 3 (white) -ve return when the foot bake is applied then both stop lights on the caravan should illuminate.
If only one comes on, it proves the cars wiring is OK, but it then suggests that either one of the bulbs on the caravan has blown or there is some fault with the carvans wiring. The Stop lights are usually wired in parallel, some manufactures simply put in a link wire between the light fittings in side the end wall of the caravan, others take it back to a terminal block.
Check the bulbs, either with your multimeter on continuity, or by swapping the bulbs over. If the falt switches sides, then its the bulb, but if the fault stays with same fitting, then its circuitry.
A very common problem with trailer electrics is corrosion in the light fittings and multipin plugs. It often worth pulling off and re-connecting any spade terminals and re-tightening any screw connections to break and clean corrosion away. The addition of a little Vasaline or grease to the spade before reconnecting can help to keep the contacts clean in the future. Its also worth looking at the bayonet sockets the bulb fits into, sometimes rust can set up just where the bulbs bayonet pins lock into the fitting and this can be just sufficient to break the electrical circuit and stop the bulb from working.
If none of that works, the it will be case of tracing your way back through the wiring to try and find any other possible faults.
hi
as an aside as john said the rear cluster light wiring on the ranger goes into a terminal block under the van both sets of lights go into it so it may be worth while checking the voltages here.
as an aside as john said the rear cluster light wiring on the ranger goes into a terminal block under the van both sets of lights go into it so it may be worth while checking the voltages here.
Big thanks for all your help. Checked the output from the car was a good 12v. Swapped the rear lights over and they both worked. Put them back to how they were originally and they both worked. Checked the voltage to the rear brake light of the caravan and that wwas a good 12v. So inspected the offending bulb seemed ok but some sign of overheating and when I tested the two elements for continuity one was less than the other. Will replace the bulb next week and hopefully cure the problem. Can I get a replacement bulb from a car shop, it's 12v p21/5w E1 2mb m5?? Thanks again for all your help PS bought a 6m trailer extension cable really helped with connecting the van up lol
Hello Bob,
They are standard bulbs so no need to get them from your dealer just use you local car parts supplier. The 21/5W bulb contains two elements and it serves two purposes. The larger 21W element is the stop light, and the 5W element is the side light.
As for the over heating, that strongly suggests that corrosion had set around the bulb holder initially increasing the resistance in the holder. as the bulb current passess, it heats up the resitive joint and may have distorted the holder a little which allowed more corrosion and eventually the electrical contact is broken - hence no illumination of the bulb. The simple action of removing and replacing the bulb may have been enough to break through the corrosion and remake the connection.
Thoroughly clean the bulb holder, and a light spray of WD 40 or equivelent will help to keep the holder rust free for a bit longer - do not spary WD40 onto the bulb.
They are standard bulbs so no need to get them from your dealer just use you local car parts supplier. The 21/5W bulb contains two elements and it serves two purposes. The larger 21W element is the stop light, and the 5W element is the side light.
As for the over heating, that strongly suggests that corrosion had set around the bulb holder initially increasing the resistance in the holder. as the bulb current passess, it heats up the resitive joint and may have distorted the holder a little which allowed more corrosion and eventually the electrical contact is broken - hence no illumination of the bulb. The simple action of removing and replacing the bulb may have been enough to break through the corrosion and remake the connection.
Thoroughly clean the bulb holder, and a light spray of WD 40 or equivelent will help to keep the holder rust free for a bit longer - do not spary WD40 onto the bulb.
Bob
I use Electrical Contact spray. It cleans the contact surfaces and helps maintain a good circuit.
See this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_165750
I use Electrical Contact spray. It cleans the contact surfaces and helps maintain a good circuit.
See this http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_195717_langId_-1_categoryId_165750
Hi JohnProf John L said:Dusty,
I thought you had gone on holiday - don't tell me youve taken your lptop with you?
This is my first go since putting up two awnings and setting up two caravans. FIL has pancreatic cancer and is recovering from a "whipple" operation. Back now aching so I thought I'd let the fingers have a go!
Hi all
New bulbs worked a treat problem solved thanks to all for your help. Replaced both bulbs as it was recommended. And have ordered a replacement unit as one of the contacts for the bulb was a brown colour rather than silver.
New bulbs worked a treat problem solved thanks to all for your help. Replaced both bulbs as it was recommended. And have ordered a replacement unit as one of the contacts for the bulb was a brown colour rather than silver.
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