resealing caravan

[Rod_5128213]

At the moment my van is dry, but, it's a 91 so is probably due to leak at anytime. Question is, should I reseal it now while it's still in good nick structuraly? If so, what's the correct procedure and should I use a polyurethane sealer or is there something better?

Rod.

 

[Damian]

Rod, it would be better to do it before you get a leak.

The best sealer to use is Silkaflex, as it stays soft, and will not break away with movement of the van.

For awning rails, prise out the centre plastic cover strip to expose the fixing screws, remove those, some may be rusted in and require careful drilling out.

Use a wide flat blade to gently prise the rail away from the van, taking care not to distort it.

Use a plastic scraper to remove the old sealant from the van, carefully!!, and remove sealer from the rail as well, then thoroughly clean both rail and van, where the rail will go back, with White Spirit.

Put a GOOD bead of Silkaflex on the rail, so that when pressed to the van it will squeeze out either side of the rail. Refix preferably using new, stainless steel screws.

When refixed, use a plastic scraper to trim the extruded sealer along the rail, then put the plastic insert into hot water to soften it, and refit to the rail.

You should be able to get a tool to make this bit easier, either from a dealer, or car paint shop.

All other sealed items are done in the same way, remove the old, clean and reseal.

 

[rob_jax]

Hi Rod,

Totally agree with Damian, reseal before it becomes a repair issue.

Butyl mastic sealer has a life of between 10 and 20 years before it starts to fail - different products used by different caravan manufacturers, different caravan storage conditions over the years - so it's probably the right time to have a look and reseal.

The awning rails are an obvious job, but also remember the window rubbers and any hatches or doorways. Sikaflex is the right product for this job.

You may want to replace any mild steel screws with stainless steel (www.screwfix.com is a good place).

Robert

 

[Rod_5128213]

Thanks folks, don't know about the stainless screws in alloy extrusions though. I always thought that alloy and stainless were at opposite ends of the scale and actually promoted corrosion in the alloy. I suppose though that it's better than having rusty screws burst the timber framing and working loose. I think I'll start to reseal it bit by bit as and when weather permits. What sikaflex is the one for the job as there's loads of them?

Rod.

 

[Damian]

Rod, the recommended sealer is Silkaflex 221.

 

[Rod_5128213]

thanks Damian.

rod

 

[rob_jax]

Hi Rod,

Electrolytic corrosion:

Any time you place two dissimilar metal in contact and let water run over them and once the surface starts to corrode and dissolve in the water, you have the makings of a battery - short circuited by the metal to metal contact.

If you can insulate the metal to metal joint with a bit of Sikaflex on the screw head - that will stop the battery action - and very adequately protect the two metals.

Certainly iron and aluminium can be a problem, but usually the passivated aluminium and stainless steel surface stops the battery from forming. But a smear of sikaflex will make sure.

Robert