RK Move Control Motor Mover 2003 model 527-0521 where is re-set button?

[brissle]

Hi,
I've collected a Coachman 420/2 year 2007 which my son has bought for us to use whilst we are visiting.
It has a Reich "Move Control" motor mover model 527-0521 dating from 2003 according to the label on the control box. It's probably an early model with a small oblong black handset with 7 red buttons on the front. The handset switches on and off no problem and the LED lights up when it's on.

When i tested the device not attached to the wheels, the motors moved smoothly.
But when I clamped the mover onto the van tyres, the van moved for a couple of yards, then the mover stopped working. Yes I had taken off the handbrake..... and the van battery is 100% charged and I have replaced the battery in the control box.

I'm assuming it's either a fuse or a reset button, but I cannot find the location of either.
No copy of the manual available on the internet that I can find.

If anyone can suggest a solution, I'd be very grateful.

Thanks

 

[otherclive]

Hi,
I've collected a Coachman 420/2 year 2007 which my son has bought for us to use whilst we are visiting.
It has a Reich "Move Control" motor mover model 527-0521 dating from 2003 according to the label on the control box. It's probably an early model with a small oblong black handset with 7 red buttons on the front. The handset switches on and off no problem and the LED lights up when it's on.

When i tested the device not attached to the wheels, the motors moved smoothly.
But when I clamped the mover onto the van tyres, the van moved for a couple of yards, then the mover stopped working. Yes I had taken off the handbrake..... and the van battery is 100% charged and I have replaced the battery in the control box.

I'm assuming it's either a fuse or a reset button, but I cannot find the location of either.
No copy of the manual available on the internet that I can find.

If anyone can suggest a solution, I'd be very grateful.

Thanks

I have had similar symptoms on my mover. It was that the wires in the battery terminals were loose. After recrimping them the mover worked fine. Another possible source could be the terminals on the motors are corroded and restricting load current.

 

[JTQ]

I have the reset info for the 2002 model that might help and will try to attach it here.

However, I don't agree with your diagnosis on the grounds it moves, presumably under the control off load, thus the signalling works.

To me the pointers are at too low a voltage, whilst under load at the mover.
Two obvious culprits for that are the battery is not as "good" as you think, and secondly the connections from the battery to the mover's control panel are "bad".
Within the control box is a circuit that senses the voltage it gets under load, it is designed to shut off the mover if that is too low. The current draw moving is high, so poor connections and a poor battery are very sensitive characteristics.

Initial money IMO is on the first, the battery taking a full voltage charge but still knackered. Beg, borrow or steal a known good battery.

Again I repeat that from what you have said it is not supporting your view of the signal going out of sync. Re check it off load it functions changing directions as it ought, before even thinking of re syncing with possibly screwing that up.
Also, these units can be controlled without the radio link, by using a 3.5 mm audio lead plugged into the handset and the control box. A lead of that sort was originally supplied with them in case of emergencies. These can be obtained quite easily if it is missing.
But, I don't think it is your issue.

http://solentcables.co.uk/acatalog/Pro-Series-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable-3m.html#SID=78

Edit: If a connection between a motor and the control unit is poor, then the expected outcome would be "stalling" of the affected motor, not unit shut down as that does not cause the sensed battery voltage to drop.

 

[JTQ]

The battery connections on the control panel [cover removed] are negative on post 3, positive on post 4, where of the six posts along the bottom of the PCB we count from the left to right.
Like Clive, I found a friends mover failed under load because of a failing crimp on one of the battery leads, probably flexed once too many times by moving the battery in and out over the years.

 

[ProfJohnL]

The symptoms and the other information you give point to a 12V problem. The fact the rollers operate when disengaged from the wheels proves the handset and the main control are communicating.

Silly question, are the wheels free to roll?

Start with Clives easy and cheapest suggestion first, check the 12V battery terminals are free from corrosion and tight.

If that doesn't work it might be the battery might be not as good as you think. You could try swapping the battery temporarily for another, even a smaller car battery would do.

If that still does not work then it suggests a problem with the mover's motors. I' m not familiar with the model you have, but it could be the motor brushes need changing.

 

[brissle]

JTQ and otherclive - many thanks to both of you - you have given me several useful leads to work on when I go back to the van on Thursday.
When I get there I am in a location without easy access WiFi so I may not be able to report back until I am back in civilisation with a signal next week.
So don't think I've lost interest if no quick response again.
I'm grateful for your help.

 

[JTQ]

If that still does not work then it suggests a problem with the mover's motors. I' m not familiar with the model you have, but it could be the motor brushes need changing.

Double failure, both motors giving up, whilst possible the chances are much reduced that being the issue. I still remain very focused on it being an unacceptable voltage drop at the PCB, wiring resistance or battery issue.

If you have jump leads putting car alongside connected up car to van's battery ought sort out if wiring or battery? Clearly hoist in all safety issues when doing that.

 

[chrisn7]

The earlier motors have a rubber boot that does not fully protect the spade connection to the motor, allowing corrosion, so do check these and replace if necessary. Later boots have an improved design.

 

[brissle]

Am back in the land of the living - i.e. we have internet again after a 4 day break in the wilds.
I now have a motor mover which works when not attached to the wheels - can't check it under load until we move it from its' current location in about 3 weeks time. But this is progress. We removed and re-connected all terminals, and my son applied a spray lubricant to the mechanism.
Thank you everyone for all the ideas - we have tested voltages, checked rubber boots, double checked the nearly new battery (100 amph) .
We are suspicious about the battery connections (could do with a better connection at the terminal) and will take appropriate tools to improve that next visit.

I have my fingers crossed for a test to actually move the van in due course.
Many thanks again.

 

[otherclive]

Thanks for the update. It’s often the simplest things that go wrong yet we all will fear the worst. Hope it works under full load. You have probably tackled the 90% of things that would have affected it as they are normally very reliable. I had one like yours and I always feared it gave too little ground clearance. Yet when I hit a high kerbstone in a French Aire, the kerbstone dislodged but the mover clearance didn’t budge at all.

 

[brissle]

Thanks otherclive.
Just one more question - when I wind the mover rollers against the tyre is there any indication / guidance as to how tight they should be against the tyre?

I worry, that maybe the first time I over-tightened them and that put too big a load on the motors, thus causing the problem that started my thread.....

 

[ProfJohnL]

Most mover manufacturer's specify the gap to set between the tyre and the retracted roller. You will need to find out what gap your mover should be set to.

 

[JTQ]

Your comment indicates you have the "wind on", the so called Comfort version of the Reich.
Both versions are to be installed so fully retracted the roller is between 15 and 20 mm from the tyre. In the original supply they give you a 15 x 20 mm wooden block, mine now long lost, for checking.
The "Wind on" is then wound to be fully extended against its end stop, so it can't be over engaged if the initial space was right in the first place. I also suspect it should be impossible to stall the motors by overloading the engagement, given the massive torque they develop.

As new there was a red/green indication marked on the linkage, I think it was painted on. I am not sure of its intended use other than indicate nearing fully engaged.
The handbook clearly states "wind fully on" but I simply sensed I had applied mine enough. I can't remember that I disciplined myself to screw on fully, just plenty enough.

I have sent you a private message.

 

[otherclive]

Your comment indicates you have the "wind on", the so called Comfort version of the Reich.
Both versions are to be installed so fully retracted the roller is between 15 and 20 mm from the tyre. In the original supply they give you a 15 x 20 mm wooden block, mine now long lost, for checking.
The "Wind on" is then wound to be fully extended against its end stop, so it can't be over engaged if the initial space was right in the first place. I also suspect it should be impossible to stall the motors by overloading the engagement, given the massive torque they develop.

As new there was a red/green indication marked on the linkage, I think it was painted on. I am not sure of its intended use other than indicate nearing fully engaged.
The handbook clearly states "wind fully on" but I simply sensed I had applied mine enough. I can't remember that I disciplined myself to screw on fully, just plenty enough.

I have sent you a private message.

JTQ s post covers everything that I would have said. Mine was wind on and you really can’t over wind it. If it’s not wound on enough you will get roller slippage so then wind on some more. The old grit rollers did wear and lose grip but you can buy better grooved one which are easy to fit.