Should I buy Al-ko stabilizer?

[oliver_5075226]

I have a caravan a few years old and it came with the standard hitch. I purchased a Bulldog stabilizer that I have used and it seems to have done the job even though it is a bit annoying having to carry it around and set it up.

My question is, is the Al-ko stabilizer and hitch worth buying? What benefits are there to using it? I am sure seasoned towers would be able to give some before and after comments on the Al-ko type of stabilizer.

TIA

Oliver

 

[WatsonJohnG]

Hi Oliver in a word YES

Have a look under "General" at " Quick Question on Alko Hitch" and "Alko Hitch/Stabiliser"

 

[Lutz]

Just a note. What applies to the AlKo also applies to the Winterhoff. It's perhaps not as popular but it works just as well and on the same principle, so if you find better offer on the Winterhoff, it would be worth looking at that, too.

 

[WatsonJohnG]

Hi Lutz do you think that the Winterhoff would be better for vehicles with the spare wheel on the back door (eg Freelander)?

Have never used the Winterhoff but seem to remember that you have one.

 

[Lutz]

No, I've got an AlKo and a LEAS electronic stabiliser (and have the same problems with the Alko because I have a Monterey, but I've grown to live with it). From test reports I gather that performancewise there's nothing to choose between an AlKo and a Winterhoff so it was only a suggestion to have a look at the latter.

 

[Les_5040898]

Oliver, in addition to previous replies, the al-ko stabilisers are for Al-Ko chassis & the Winterhoff is for BPW chassis, so first of all which chassis you have on your van will determine your choice. Secondly, the Winterhoff is seen as better for vehicles with rear mounted spare wheels due to the stabiliser handle being hinged behind the coupling head & therefore does not hit the spare wheel when hitching (Al-Ko now market a removeable handle to overcome this problem ). Third, the Al-Ko certainly requires it's own type of towball (not cheap at

 

[Lutz]

The AlKo and Winterhoff stabilisers are not limited to AlKo and BPW chassis, respectively. The systems are interchangeable.

 

[WatsonJohnG]

SO long as the 2 bolt holes in the drawbar are at the same distance and presumably they are then you can fit either hitch so long as Alko say you do not have the revolving older type of shaft.

Thanks Les I thought that I had read that the Winterhoff handle was more 4 X 4 friendly.

The Alko seems more robust and we have a friend who had damaged the side casing of the Winterhoff which seems more flimsy.

 

[Ray_5042140]

I tow a trailer with a conventional hitch as well as my van The trailer hitch requires grease am I right to assume that the alko needs to have a dry ball so the two are not compatable

 

[WatsonJohnG]

So do I.You just wipe the grease off and clean with thinners etc before using the Alko.

 

[Lutz]

Grease will diffuse into the metal within time and it is doubtful whether you would remove all traces even with liberal use of thinners. If you have a bolt-on towball instead of a swan neck, it might be worthwhile having 2, one for the AlKo stabiliser and the other for a conventional coupling. That way you can be absolutely sure that contamination cannot occur. It's probably just as quick to exchange the towball than to clean it thoroughly anyway.

 

[WatsonJohnG]

Grease will diffuse into the metal within time and it is doubtful whether you would remove all traces even with liberal use of thinners. If you have a bolt-on towball instead of a swan neck, it might be worthwhile having 2, one for the AlKo stabiliser and the other for a conventional coupling. That way you can be absolutely sure that contamination cannot occur. It's probably just as quick to exchange the towball than to clean it thoroughly anyway.

I wondered about that. Thanks again

 

[dave_5075622]

SO long as the 2 bolt holes in the drawbar are at the same distance and presumably they are then you can fit either hitch so long as Alko say you do not have the revolving older type of shaft.

Thanks Les I thought that I had read that the Winterhoff handle was more 4 X 4 friendly.

The Alko seems more robust and we have a friend who had damaged the side casing of the Winterhoff which seems more flimsy.

I have a caravan with the old revolving shaft and i would like to fit an al-ko stabiliser any one got any ideas what i can do?

 

[WatsonJohnG]

Hi again Lutz.

Just putting things away and came upon the Alko brochure and its interesting to read their choice of words with their capitals

"IMPORTANT NOTE The AKS 2004 should only be used on a CLEAN DEGREASED TOWBALL otherwise contamination etc etc."

Degreased not never greased

Not trying to score points but found that food for thought.

I only use my trailer infrequently but have had no problem with apparent loss of efficiency of the Alko over a 3 year period.

When I clean the ball no trace of grease comes off with a good grip of the hand. Nor has there been any obvious grease contamination on the pads when removed for checking etc.

 

[Lutz]

It was only a thought to have two towballs to be on the safe side. Some grease will diffuse but whether such small traces will have an adverse effect, I don't know (owners with swan neck towballs wouldn't have the option anyway) but the opportunity to change towballs would eliminate even the smallest risk and, as I said, it's probably quicker to change than to clean.

 

[Nigel_5065386]

Hi oliver have just put on a winterhoff, and after reading the tests on their website they beat Al-ko hands down on all, even on the TUV test which is within the same set of tests, as tested on German cars bi-annually and makes our MOT look like a walk in the park. We have just come back from a trip around Scotland, and it was fantastic, just make sure it is the mark 11 and not the mark 1 for the mark 1 is for the BPS chassie but the mark11 fitts both. They are brilliant

 

[Bri2]

Oliver, if you decide to go for the Alko, and I would if I where you, buy the tripple pack which comes with the stabiliser, tow ball, hitch lock, hitch false ball and cover. Remove ALL the black paint from the new towball head or it will act as a lubricant on the stabiliser pads. Also a tin of Halford break drum cleaner, to use on the tow ball, a quick squirt, just before hitching up to ensure there is no grease present. The tin goes a long way and will last ages. One other tip, when you arrive at a sites book in, release the stabiliser before moveing onto the site looking for a plot. This will save some ware and you wont need it at low speeds.

Brian

 

[Lutz]

Hi oliver have just put on a winterhoff, and after reading the tests on their website they beat Al-ko hands down on all, even on the TUV test which is within the same set of tests, as tested on German cars bi-annually and makes our MOT look like a walk in the park. We have just come back from a trip around Scotland, and it was fantastic, just make sure it is the mark 11 and not the mark 1 for the mark 1 is for the BPS chassie but the mark11 fitts both. They are brilliant

The current model is the Winterhoff WS3000. I would like to know where you got the test results comparing the AlKo with the Winterhoff from. I have a test report in 'Caravaning' magazine which claims there was no measurable difference between the two. The TUV is, as you say, the German equivalent of the MOT and they do not normally conduct comparative tests on components.

 

[hymer]

I have seen a number of posts advising people to release the friction stabiliser handle before reversing or manouevring onto a pitch, apparently it saves wear on the friction pads. However, I had an experience recently which suggests this may not be a good idea.

A caravanner was attempting to reverse his caravan onto a sloping pitch, after several days of heavy rain had fallen on the site (CC, Berwick-on-Tweed). The ground was extremely boggy and uneven and his front-wheel drive car became well and truly stuck, so I offered to position his van using my 4x4. We duly hitched up his van to my towcar, but he left the Al-Ko stabiliser handle in the up position saying it wasn't necessary to engage it. Fair enough I thought, and began reversing. After moving back a few yards, there was a loud bang and I knew immediately that something was wrong. I got out of the car with to inspect the damage, and discovered that the caravan coupling had jumped off the tow hook and rammed into my rear bumper. Fortunately the damage was minor.

I'm pretty certain that the coupling was properly engaged to start with, as the green button had popped up and the black coupling lever had snapped down. My conclusion therefore was that the friction stabiliser being dis-engaged allowed sufficient free play in the coupling head to allow it to jump off as described under the stress of the manouevre. After coupling up again, and this time engaging the friction stabiliser, all went smoothly and I had no difficulty in completing the exercise.

Any comments?

Mike B.

 

[Lutz]

The problem that you encountered should not have happened. It is recommended practice, but not mandatory, to release the pads before manoeuvring. If the green tell-tale button was showing, as you say, was the primary locking handle also down? If it was, I can only assume that something, maybe the wiring harness, caught the handle while turning and lifted it up.

The position of the stabiliser handle should have no effect on the safety of the system.

 

[Lutz]

The problem that you encountered should not have happened. It is recommended practice, but not mandatory, to release the pads before manoeuvring. If the green tell-tale button was showing, as you say, was the primary locking handle also down? If it was, I can only assume that something, maybe the wiring harness, caught the handle while turning and lifted it up.

The position of the stabiliser handle should have no effect on the safety of the system.

 

[hymer]

The green button had popped up and the black coupling lever (primary locking handle) had snapped down, so the indications were that the coupling head was properly engaged. I normally double-check by winding the jockey wheel down a little to see if the rear of the towcar lifts up, but in this case I didn't do so and therefore can't be certain that we were "good to go". The wiring harness could not have caught the handle as it was out of the way, docked on the caravan A-frame. Anyway, a lesson learned, although I still have my suspicions about that friction coupling not being engaged...

At home I use a Mr. Shifter to manouevre my caravan on the driveway, and the instruction manual for this device recommends that you engage the Al-Ko friction stabiliser, which I always do.

 

[WatsonJohnG]

The hitch should be OK without the stabiliser handle down.

During the 2 stabiliser debate I replied to Alko with words along the lines of "so it would be OK to tow with the stabiliser handle up if I wanted to evaluate the Straightliner against the Alko"

Reply was there none so I assume that it SHOULD be OK

Raising the handle for manoeuvring onto the pitch could make it easier to remove the hitch and avoid the sticking that can occur.

 

[Ron2]

Hi

I have used both Alko and Winterhoff, my preference is the winterhoff by far, look at all the postings of "noise from coupling head" the Alko are in my opinion rubbish, I spoke to Alko of the noise I was having, they said it's the diesel smut's and suggested I wrap the complete tow assembly in a bag to prevent the smut's, I had already done this and a real good clean with wire wool and brake cleaner, they had no answer only to blame the diesel, I still have a diesel car but no noise from the Winterhoff.

Regards

 

[mkej100]

A noisey stabiliser is caused by greasey/rusty towballs wipe the ball with a clean rag then degrease with brake cleaner then rub over with course emery cloth.

We tow caravans around our yard every day and never put the Al-ko handle down and have never lost one yet ,the tongue that snaps under the ball holds it on not the friction pads...

To get over the problem of 4x4 spare wheels just remove the Al-ko handle and use it only to engae and disengage the pads,you can even spend