torque wrench
- Thread starter valleyboy1
- Start date
hi Ken,..it depends on how much you wish to spend ,..i just got one for christmas and it's by machine mart and i am very happy using it,...it as a accuracy of about 2% and cost
Here's a good product test from Auto Express in 2009.
Halfords Professional comes out best but it depends what you use it for and how often you use it.
The cheaper ones from Screwfix, Lidl or Aldi may be good enough.
Make sure you get the correct torque range.
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/233479/halfords_professional_torque_wrench.html
Halfords Professional comes out best but it depends what you use it for and how often you use it.
The cheaper ones from Screwfix, Lidl or Aldi may be good enough.
Make sure you get the correct torque range.
http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/products/products/233479/halfords_professional_torque_wrench.html
ive been in the motor trade 16 yrs i bought my torque wrench from argos still got it now never let me down money well spent, its on sale now for
Was an engineer for 40 years + bought mine from Argos to, great value trick is keeping it calibrated, since retiring 2 years ago this June it will need doing again, will have to look on the net for a good instrument company.
NGH
I have just bought a cheap one from Lidl. In your post you say yours will need calibrating again soon. Can you explain about this and how it is done.
Keith
I have just bought a cheap one from Lidl. In your post you say yours will need calibrating again soon. Can you explain about this and how it is done.
Keith
Calibration is a process whereby a tool is checked against a known standard load to ensure that the setting shown on the tool's dial/indicator actually represents the load being applied. It is a common place process with many measuring devices and is required by law on a periodic basis when devices are used to measure product for sale. EG petrol pumps, shop weighing scales.
But my money says the new breed of low cost torque wrenches are probably of a pressed together/rivetted construction and that there is no way of calibrating them. (other than to know what the error is and to make allowance for this when setting the desired torque figure). I could be wrong though!
Some good advice a Britool rep gave me years ago is to always make sure you wind the setting back to zero after using the torque wrench, thus never storing the wrench with the internal spring under compression.
But my money says the new breed of low cost torque wrenches are probably of a pressed together/rivetted construction and that there is no way of calibrating them. (other than to know what the error is and to make allowance for this when setting the desired torque figure). I could be wrong though!
Some good advice a Britool rep gave me years ago is to always make sure you wind the setting back to zero after using the torque wrench, thus never storing the wrench with the internal spring under compression.
Any torque wrench that is out of calibration or has no certificate of calibration, is worse than useless. At best it will leave you unsure of the condition of the joined components and at its worse it will stretch or possibly snap the bolt or stud. For most occassions tight is tight and good enough. Most applications now only use a torque wrench for the initial tightening and the next stage is by using angular torque, where the nut or bolt is turned through an indicated number of degrees, usualy in several seperate stages.
Steve W
Steve W
Hello Steve W
I'm assuming ken is going to use his torque wrench for his caravan wheel studs.
Please explain what you mean by "most applications", does this include caravan wheels?
Whats the "angular torque" required for caravan wheels and the "indicated number of degrees, usually in several stages".
Do I need a bigger tackle box?????
Regards,
I'm assuming ken is going to use his torque wrench for his caravan wheel studs.
Please explain what you mean by "most applications", does this include caravan wheels?
Whats the "angular torque" required for caravan wheels and the "indicated number of degrees, usually in several stages".
Do I need a bigger tackle box?????
Regards,
Hi Steve W,
Stand to be corrected and not to start an arguement but aren't most of the fastenings where you describe the need to torque, then apply an additional x degrees of rotation, limited mainly to "one time" use fixings, that have to be discarded if ever undone?
Like the headbolts on most modern engines for example. The tightening process actually "stretches" the fastening either close to or over its elastic limit.
The latest Swift handbook makes no mention of torquing then turning through a further number of degrees.
Here is the extract :
Important: Standard AL-KO caravan chassis
use M12 wheel bolts. These must always only
be tightened to the correct torque setting:
- Steel wheels 88 Nm (65 lbs/ft)
- Alloy wheels 115 Nm (85 lbs/ft)
in sequence, (i.e. North, South, East, West);
NEVER clock or anti-clockwise. ALWAYS use a
calibrated torque wrench, do not use a corner
steady brace, power or electric wrench. It is as
dangerous to overtighten wheel bolts as it is to
not tighten them sufficiently.
Important: The torque settings should be rechecked
after 50 Km.
If other wheel bolts are used please ensure the
torque settings are as follows:
M10 - 49 Nm (36 ft. lb)
M14 - 135 Nm (99.5 ft. lb)
M16 - 210 Nm (155 ft. lb)
Tony
Stand to be corrected and not to start an arguement but aren't most of the fastenings where you describe the need to torque, then apply an additional x degrees of rotation, limited mainly to "one time" use fixings, that have to be discarded if ever undone?
Like the headbolts on most modern engines for example. The tightening process actually "stretches" the fastening either close to or over its elastic limit.
The latest Swift handbook makes no mention of torquing then turning through a further number of degrees.
Here is the extract :
Important: Standard AL-KO caravan chassis
use M12 wheel bolts. These must always only
be tightened to the correct torque setting:
- Steel wheels 88 Nm (65 lbs/ft)
- Alloy wheels 115 Nm (85 lbs/ft)
in sequence, (i.e. North, South, East, West);
NEVER clock or anti-clockwise. ALWAYS use a
calibrated torque wrench, do not use a corner
steady brace, power or electric wrench. It is as
dangerous to overtighten wheel bolts as it is to
not tighten them sufficiently.
Important: The torque settings should be rechecked
after 50 Km.
If other wheel bolts are used please ensure the
torque settings are as follows:
M10 - 49 Nm (36 ft. lb)
M14 - 135 Nm (99.5 ft. lb)
M16 - 210 Nm (155 ft. lb)
Tony
Hi Tony.
All I was trying to point out is that to buy a torque wrench just to do up a set of wheel bolts is not the best or cheapest solution to the problem. In the text you quoted, the most important section I have copied.
ALWAYS use a CALIBRATED torque wrench.
My point is that 99% of non professionals do not use a calibrated torque wrench and buying one next week does not mean it will still be accurate next year.
Steve W
All I was trying to point out is that to buy a torque wrench just to do up a set of wheel bolts is not the best or cheapest solution to the problem. In the text you quoted, the most important section I have copied.
ALWAYS use a CALIBRATED torque wrench.
My point is that 99% of non professionals do not use a calibrated torque wrench and buying one next week does not mean it will still be accurate next year.
Steve W
Hi
No measuring device is 100% copper bottomed accurate, even the national standards against which most calibrated measuring devices are compared have a level of uncertainty (Measurement of Uncertainty). As a general rule, a Reference device needs to be at least 1 order of magnitude more accurate than the device being tested.
Calibration is a process that compares the output of the device under test against known values or standards. The resulting table of outputs describes the performance of the device under test.
Just because a device has been calibrated does not mean it is safe or accurate to use. Whether the device can be used for its intended job will depend on an assessment of the devices calibration results by the person who is responsible for ensuring the required Job is to be completed properly. In most companies that will be the senior inspector or quality manager.
It is good practice to only allow a device to be used that conforms to the devices standard specifications with regard accuracy and tolerances, but In some cases and provided the error of an instrument is known, and if the error is consistent, then it is possible to use the device to achieve the desired outcome by applying a correction to compensate for the known error.
If after calibration a device is found to be outside of its tolerance specifications, the responsible person may elect to have the device adjusted to improve its performance and re calibrated to confirm the efficacy of the adjustment.
If a device is outside of its tolerance specifications and either cannot be adjusted, or fails to be correct by adjustment, the responsible person should prevent the device from being used.
Recalibration is normally specified annually except where other factors permit variances to the frequency.
No measuring device is 100% copper bottomed accurate, even the national standards against which most calibrated measuring devices are compared have a level of uncertainty (Measurement of Uncertainty). As a general rule, a Reference device needs to be at least 1 order of magnitude more accurate than the device being tested.
Calibration is a process that compares the output of the device under test against known values or standards. The resulting table of outputs describes the performance of the device under test.
Just because a device has been calibrated does not mean it is safe or accurate to use. Whether the device can be used for its intended job will depend on an assessment of the devices calibration results by the person who is responsible for ensuring the required Job is to be completed properly. In most companies that will be the senior inspector or quality manager.
It is good practice to only allow a device to be used that conforms to the devices standard specifications with regard accuracy and tolerances, but In some cases and provided the error of an instrument is known, and if the error is consistent, then it is possible to use the device to achieve the desired outcome by applying a correction to compensate for the known error.
If after calibration a device is found to be outside of its tolerance specifications, the responsible person may elect to have the device adjusted to improve its performance and re calibrated to confirm the efficacy of the adjustment.
If a device is outside of its tolerance specifications and either cannot be adjusted, or fails to be correct by adjustment, the responsible person should prevent the device from being used.
Recalibration is normally specified annually except where other factors permit variances to the frequency.
Agree Steve,
Unless the device has a reasonable degree of accuracy, with experience you might as well tighten the wheel nuts using "feel" and wait until your elbow makes the click, rather than the wrench
.
But if you only tighten one set of wheel studs every other year then surely even a slightly out of calibration torque wrench will be closer than either having the studs way too slack, or over tightened by jumping on the wheel brace with full body weight.
Unless the device has a reasonable degree of accuracy, with experience you might as well tighten the wheel nuts using "feel" and wait until your elbow makes the click, rather than the wrench
.But if you only tighten one set of wheel studs every other year then surely even a slightly out of calibration torque wrench will be closer than either having the studs way too slack, or over tightened by jumping on the wheel brace with full body weight.
Unfortunately Tony, any one who is that stupid, is probably incapable of using a torque wrench properly any way. I would like a pound for every time I have seen so called engineers give an extra bounce with a torque wrench, "Just for luck". How many people clean the threads and check that they run freely and can be screwed the whole length of the thread by hand with out undue force. If after 45 years as a mechanic, I can't tell when a wheel bolt is tight without the use of a torque wrench, then I would give up. Once a wheel has been disturbed and the bolts have been retightened to the correct torque, leave them alone until the wheel has to come off again. Constantly checking that they are tight, inevitably leads to over tightening.
Steve W
Steve W
Steve W
Steve W
Sorry should read.
Once a wheel has been disturbed and refitted and the bolts have been retightened to the correct torque after 30 miles or so leave them alone.
Once a wheel has been disturbed and refitted and the bolts have been retightened to the correct torque after 30 miles or so leave them alone.
If you go to Google and input recalibrate torque wrench there is a guy who explains how to do it, i printed off his comments and its on the wall of my garage. Its quite simple to do using his method.
OMG, what can of worms have you opened KEN engineers reign supreem. my tip my friend is to use the torque wrench suppiled with the van or car you know the bendy one made for the job thats right the one you used to change the wheel after a puncture last time.
if not and to be doubley sure you can use one from argos and carry it round in the boot year after year untill you acctually use it on something.
if not and to be doubley sure you can use one from argos and carry it round in the boot year after year untill you acctually use it on something.
For a lot of years I used a socket bar with a 1Ft marker and connected a spring ballance to the marker then pulled to required reading on the ballance scale.Could this be a way of checking the calibration IE mark down the torque wrench shaft at 1Ft from the fulcrum point then the FT Lbs reading and the torque wrench Ft Lbs setting should be equal when pulling on the balance any difference % wise could be compensated for.Hope I've managed to explain myself OK Cliff.
HI Cliffo.
Surely depends on the accuracy of the spring balance, ask any angler about them, some people catch fish the size of small sharks other only tddlers, all depends whose doing the weighing and with what.
All seems an awful lot of bother just to tighen a set of caravan wheels. Tight is tight and you don't need a torque wrench to tell you that.
Steve W
Surely depends on the accuracy of the spring balance, ask any angler about them, some people catch fish the size of small sharks other only tddlers, all depends whose doing the weighing and with what.
All seems an awful lot of bother just to tighen a set of caravan wheels. Tight is tight and you don't need a torque wrench to tell you that.
Steve W
Hold on Steve,
Tight is tight? Sorry but I have to strongly disagree with you.
Your tight will be different to others, and highly likely to be inaccurate with regards to tightening safety critical components like wheel nuts/bolts.
I do agree with you about spring balances, and in fact any piece of domestic equipment designed to measure, Unless it has been adjusted and calibrated professionally, its accuracy is unknown.
In fairness though, for many tasks in the home a device that gives +/-10% may be more than adequate, but for safety critical systems proper tested and calibrated equipment should be used.
Tight is tight? Sorry but I have to strongly disagree with you.
Your tight will be different to others, and highly likely to be inaccurate with regards to tightening safety critical components like wheel nuts/bolts.
I do agree with you about spring balances, and in fact any piece of domestic equipment designed to measure, Unless it has been adjusted and calibrated professionally, its accuracy is unknown.
In fairness though, for many tasks in the home a device that gives +/-10% may be more than adequate, but for safety critical systems proper tested and calibrated equipment should be used.
In 45yrs as a commercial vehicle fitter, I have never repeat never had anything that I have tightened, come loss on its own. Whether a torque wrench was used or not, If someone is not able to tell if a wheel nut is tight or not, then they should leave them alone any way.
Steve W
Steve W
sorry john L. I am with steve W on this I have been a keen DIYer all my life, although never had any mechanical training I know when a nut is tight enough all this precision this and that is not nessesary.
if it was every car or van would be supplied with a calibrated wheel tightner but all you get is a bent box spanner and scissor jack, hundreds of thousands of wheels have been changed over the years by all sorts of people without a problem. why then is it so critical to tighen the studs with a one yearly re calibrated precision instrument.
the fact is anyone reading a service manual will see a torque setting for every nut on the car including the 8mm battery nuts and the ones holding the wiper arms on when was the last time even you used a torque wrench on these.
if it was every car or van would be supplied with a calibrated wheel tightner but all you get is a bent box spanner and scissor jack, hundreds of thousands of wheels have been changed over the years by all sorts of people without a problem. why then is it so critical to tighen the studs with a one yearly re calibrated precision instrument.
the fact is anyone reading a service manual will see a torque setting for every nut on the car including the 8mm battery nuts and the ones holding the wiper arms on when was the last time even you used a torque wrench on these.
Facebook
Twitter