Just pitched up for easter only to find out that the 240v heater isn't working. The green light on the thermostat is on and switching between 2000/1000/500 causes the relays to click as does altering the thermostats temp dial but no heat from the element. The fan is working fine so using the gas at the moment. Can't do much on site but any tips on what to try once we get back are appreciated.
Truma Ultraheat issue
- Thread starter bert3d
- Start date
Damian
Moderator
Damian
Moderator
Probably seems like a silly question but have you tried the electric without the fan running?
Another thing to try for now is retry the electric if you have used gas for a while as the elements can become troublesome with damp and after using gas it sometimes dries the elements out and they work again.
If neither of the above work,then the next suspect is the relays on the control board of the fire, or the temp limiters.
Another thing to try for now is retry the electric if you have used gas for a while as the elements can become troublesome with damp and after using gas it sometimes dries the elements out and they work again.
If neither of the above work,then the next suspect is the relays on the control board of the fire, or the temp limiters.
No heat without the fan and still no good after a day on the gas. Could the relays all fail? I'm guessing there is a relay for each of the Kw setting??
The 2 elements are 1000watts each, the 3 relays are configured too give 500watts which puts 2 elements in series, to get 1000w 1 element is used and to get 2000w both elements are used . There are also 2 over temperature thermostat within the fire housing which may be open circuit
Hi guys. Back home and have just checked continuity across the temp sensors. Am I right in testing blue and green for continuity (which is ok) and the two black wires (which has no continuity). If so would this indicate a failure in the temp limiter sensor. How easy are they to change? Any tips or pointers would be appreciated.
On my particular model it was a dreadful job. The gas heat exchanger had to be removed together with the flue flange and gas supply connection. However during the recent winter spent in Spain, my friends fire went wrong and we sent to the UK for the two temp limiter sensors and surprise, surprise on his fire we were able to get to them without removing the heat exchanger. It made the job comparatively easy. Since we were unable to tell which one had gone open, we replaced both.
Having removed the front off mine I think I will fall into 'dreadful' category. I can't see anything other than the heat exchanger, so I'm guessing I'd better order a new flue seal along with the sensor. Did you remove the heat exchanger by way of the 4 allen headed bolts or by the 4 phillips screws which look like they secure a base plate to the van floor?
Yes - the large headed screws hold the heat exchanger to the floor. Does your flue pipe go through a completely enclosed hole in the back plate? If so, it's a complete dismantle job. If not, you may get the back plate out without disturbing the heat exchanger. Gas connection is from under the van, and yes - you'll need a new flue ring. The old one will be distorted and unusable.
From what I can recall it's fully enclosed so I'm guessing it's a full strip down job. Oh well the joys of caravaning!
Unless you have the knowledge and the means to fully test the gas appliance in accordance with the Gas Safety (Installation and Use) Regulations this is not a job for the DIYer. Failure to do the job properly will put you and your family at risk.
If the caravan is hired out or even loaned (Zero value hire) to anyone other than the owner, a proven competent gas fitter must do the work.
If the caravan is hired out or even loaned (Zero value hire) to anyone other than the owner, a proven competent gas fitter must do the work.
My father-in-law is gas safe registered and will be handling all of the work and testing but thanks for the advice
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