hi i have a bailey pagent with a truma mover i have a isolator next to the battery and a 7 pin soc on the a frame i have to plug an adaptor into this and attach my 13 pin plug to complete the circuit the thing is every time i have to move the van the cable is pulling out when its stretched round the jockey wheel ,,how can i bypass this so i only have the isolator ?
7 pin socket motor mover
- Thread starter robf1234
- Start date
Like Woodlands Camper I do not understand the need for the 13 pin plug. To use my mover I just turn the isolation switch with a key to activate the mover
hi to get the mover to operate the 13 pin plug has to be inserted into the 7 pin plug via a converter on the a frame of the van ,,yes the onboard battery powers the mover
i agree but bailey seems to have put this on as secondary fail safe to the isolator why i do not know ..its a real pain in the butt
This posting is a complete mystery,do Bailey supply caravans with a fitted mover.
I thought movers were fitted by others after delivery and not van manufacturers.
There is no 7 pin plug anywhere in our mover circuits.(Bailey caravan)
As previously said we just switch the mover on with the isolator and off we go!
I thought movers were fitted by others after delivery and not van manufacturers.
There is no 7 pin plug anywhere in our mover circuits.(Bailey caravan)
As previously said we just switch the mover on with the isolator and off we go!
I am with Bertieoy1, Can't understand the question. We have had several different vans with movers on, only ever had (and seen) an on/off isolator in the batter box. Why would anyone want a towing plug in the circuit, never mind a 7 to 13 pin adaptor. Can only assume that whoever 'designed' it didn't really know what was required? More info required to sort it.
hi this was supplied and fitted professionally i am 99% sure by ladybailly and has been serviced by them since new i called them up to ask why it was wired in this way they said its a safety device all i am asking is if anyone knows how to bypass the socket it is live 12v when the isolater switch is onWoodlandsCamper said:robf1234 said:
Get a qualified service technician to rewire it properly.
Will try to be as brief as possible.
Collected Sancerre at 4 pm today after Truma SE mover had been transferred from our other caravan(work carried out by dealer).
Dealer gave me a run through of van and mover...all worked fine.
He supplied me with a "adaptor lead" as my car has 7 pin electrics and Sancerre has 13pins.
Drove home perfectly and parked outside of drive.Disconnected car from caravan(after seperating the two ends of the 13pin plugs)
Had a problem re-connecting plugs so rang dealer and was informed that I had to use a 50p piece,and turn the pins 1/4 turn anti clockwise to engage the two ends(I hope the next thing i did hasnt messed things up).
It would not turn anti clockwise but it turned clockwise 1/4 turn very easily(thought that i may have been holding it the wrong way round and trying to turn it wrong way)
[]]Anyway,connected the plug to the safety socket,switched on isolator,[[/strike][/u]/b][/b]turned on remote,and moved the van back about 6 feet(enough to move my car out of the way)
Moved car and returned to the caravan to move it into my driveway.
Nothing!!!!!
Van stuck in road with the rollers firmly against the tyres and remote control not turning on.
Fitted a brand new set of batteries to remote...still nothing.
Disconnected the leisure battery for 10 minutes then tried again.
Still nothing.
Have read instructions and it appears that the handset and control unit are not synchronised with each other.
Handbook states to "Press the reset button on the control unit and hold down(led flashes slowly)and after 5 seconds,the led starts to flash rapidly"
Mine doesnt!!!!
As soon as i press the reset button,the red led starts to flash rapidly straight away for some reason.
It says "After successful synchronisation,the red led flashes rapidly"mine just flashes slowly after trying to synchronise.
One thing i have noticed is when i flick the on/off remote switch to "on"....i get just a "nanosecond" of green light.
Hope someone can help.....suppose to be going away on Friday and cant take time off work to return to dealer.
.
found this on a previous post obviously i am not the only one with a safety socket !!
Collected Sancerre at 4 pm today after Truma SE mover had been transferred from our other caravan(work carried out by dealer).
Dealer gave me a run through of van and mover...all worked fine.
He supplied me with a "adaptor lead" as my car has 7 pin electrics and Sancerre has 13pins.
Drove home perfectly and parked outside of drive.Disconnected car from caravan(after seperating the two ends of the 13pin plugs)
Had a problem re-connecting plugs so rang dealer and was informed that I had to use a 50p piece,and turn the pins 1/4 turn anti clockwise to engage the two ends(I hope the next thing i did hasnt messed things up).
It would not turn anti clockwise but it turned clockwise 1/4 turn very easily(thought that i may have been holding it the wrong way round and trying to turn it wrong way)
[]]Anyway,connected the plug to the safety socket,switched on isolator,[[/strike][/u]/b][/b]turned on remote,and moved the van back about 6 feet(enough to move my car out of the way)
Moved car and returned to the caravan to move it into my driveway.
Nothing!!!!!
Van stuck in road with the rollers firmly against the tyres and remote control not turning on.
Fitted a brand new set of batteries to remote...still nothing.
Disconnected the leisure battery for 10 minutes then tried again.
Still nothing.
Have read instructions and it appears that the handset and control unit are not synchronised with each other.
Handbook states to "Press the reset button on the control unit and hold down(led flashes slowly)and after 5 seconds,the led starts to flash rapidly"
Mine doesnt!!!!
As soon as i press the reset button,the red led starts to flash rapidly straight away for some reason.
It says "After successful synchronisation,the red led flashes rapidly"mine just flashes slowly after trying to synchronise.
One thing i have noticed is when i flick the on/off remote switch to "on"....i get just a "nanosecond" of green light.
Hope someone can help.....suppose to be going away on Friday and cant take time off work to return to dealer.
.
found this on a previous post obviously i am not the only one with a safety socket !!
robf1234 said:
The socket you describe is called by Truma a safety socket
Manoeuvring the caravan.
Please read the “Safety instructions” before using
the Mover®!
Apply handbrake with caravan uncoupled.
Unplug 7-pin or 13-pin plug from vehicle and plug into safety
socket of caravan.
For safety reasons the Mover® can only be operated if
the 7-pin or 13-pin plug of the caravan has been plugged
into the safety socket.
In the event of an error, the 7-pin or 13-pin plug should
not be removed from the safety socket as otherwise the
electronic protection function is deactivated.
If there is a fault in both caravan brake lights, the power
circuit of the safety socket is not closed. In this case the
Mover® cannot be operated.
Your cable should not be getting anywhere near the jockey wheel for it to be pulled out .....
Anyway have a look here for more info page 12
Suggestion: is this connection used instead of having an isolator switch for the mover? I.e. instead of having a 'key' switch that turns on the mover controller is that power obtained by plugging the tow plug into a dummy that provides power to the controller and at the same time ensures that the caravan is disconnected from the car?
Rob,
A couple of points -
When you say "safety socket" do you mean the socket on the car.
The 13 pin plug/socket has a keyway,the keyway on the plug should be at 3 o'clock before insertion otherwise the pins won't be lined up correctly with the socket.
You can get a green coloured cap for the 13 pin plug that correctly lines up the pins and keyway.
To remove the 13 pin plug you turn anti-clockwise and withdraw, after insertion you turn the plug clockwise.
The remote control handset is not affected by the state of the control unit in the van,my own remote control unit sometimes switches it's self off during use and sometimes I have to switch on several times - it's a nuisance but I live with it.
All this I fear doesn't answer your enigmatic first post (which I still don't understand).All I can say is your mover circuits have no connection with the connections to the car.Are you operating the mover whilst still plugged up to the car?
I always disconnect the car from the van before operating the mover.
A couple of points -
When you say "safety socket" do you mean the socket on the car.
The 13 pin plug/socket has a keyway,the keyway on the plug should be at 3 o'clock before insertion otherwise the pins won't be lined up correctly with the socket.
You can get a green coloured cap for the 13 pin plug that correctly lines up the pins and keyway.
To remove the 13 pin plug you turn anti-clockwise and withdraw, after insertion you turn the plug clockwise.
The remote control handset is not affected by the state of the control unit in the van,my own remote control unit sometimes switches it's self off during use and sometimes I have to switch on several times - it's a nuisance but I live with it.
All this I fear doesn't answer your enigmatic first post (which I still don't understand).All I can say is your mover circuits have no connection with the connections to the car.Are you operating the mover whilst still plugged up to the car?
I always disconnect the car from the van before operating the mover.
Sproket,
All this is new to me having used different Truma movers for 15 years I don't have a "safety socket" and the mover operates ok without one.
All this is new to me having used different Truma movers for 15 years I don't have a "safety socket" and the mover operates ok without one.
the safety socket has two wires in it on pi 6,,,and pin 3 one is brake lights and the other is earth ,,they go to the control unit one wire goes to the main earth and one is on a spade terminal ?
bertieboy1 said:
I remember reading about these some years ago when the choice of movers were limited to a few manufactures .... and possibly due to it being over complicated that's why i had a Powrtouch fitted on my own van ... it was the quote "plugging in the cable" that jolted the old grey matter into life :S
hi all,
right if you have never seen this arrangement then it will be as alien as ET, if not it is easy to understand and even easier to modify, this was the system that the wiring diagram of my own mover was, that is until I looked at it and thought sod that,
on a normal mover the power control unit has two power wires positive and negative, the positive wire [red] goes directly from the van battery to a isolator switch, the other terminal of the isolator switch goes to the control unit to provide power to the unit, the return wire [black] earth from the control unit then returns to the van battery to complete the circuit,
turning off the isolator and removing the key prevents the unit from working,
on the arrangement the OP has, is similar, except instead of the earth control wire going back to the van battery it is wired into a socket, so even if the isolator is switched on it still wont work as there is no earth/return to the control unit,
the earth return is provided by way of the van plug via pin 3, and pin 6 which then goes to the van battery,
in order for the mover to work both the isolator and the van plug must be connected it is an added safety feature so the mover cannot engage while hooked up to the car,
all you have to do is remove the return wires that goes to the extra socket and join them together to complete the circuit if you cannot do this yourself a mobile engineer could do it for you in about 30mins.
the wiring diagram is here, on page 11.
https://www.truma.com/downloadcenter/mover_ser_ter_installation_operating_uk.pdf
right if you have never seen this arrangement then it will be as alien as ET, if not it is easy to understand and even easier to modify, this was the system that the wiring diagram of my own mover was, that is until I looked at it and thought sod that,
on a normal mover the power control unit has two power wires positive and negative, the positive wire [red] goes directly from the van battery to a isolator switch, the other terminal of the isolator switch goes to the control unit to provide power to the unit, the return wire [black] earth from the control unit then returns to the van battery to complete the circuit,
turning off the isolator and removing the key prevents the unit from working,
on the arrangement the OP has, is similar, except instead of the earth control wire going back to the van battery it is wired into a socket, so even if the isolator is switched on it still wont work as there is no earth/return to the control unit,
the earth return is provided by way of the van plug via pin 3, and pin 6 which then goes to the van battery,
in order for the mover to work both the isolator and the van plug must be connected it is an added safety feature so the mover cannot engage while hooked up to the car,
all you have to do is remove the return wires that goes to the extra socket and join them together to complete the circuit if you cannot do this yourself a mobile engineer could do it for you in about 30mins.
the wiring diagram is here, on page 11.
https://www.truma.com/downloadcenter/mover_ser_ter_installation_operating_uk.pdf
colin-yorkshire said:
I sincerely hope not as that would mean the 60-80A drawn by the mover would be going through the 7-pin socket!
I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.
However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)
That's interesting that Colin, had Carver/Truma movers on last 5 vans, (15 years, I think) . Never changed or fitted them myself. But never seen the plug set up until I've just looked at the drawings, - thank God the fitters modified the circuit, what a 'fiddling nuisance' it would have been otherwise! Additional connections/plugs are always a weak link and another source of problems. Simpler the better! -- (Or is that just me?)
hi colin thanks i thought thats was all i had to do, but just wanted a second opinion,, why do people assumecolin-yorkshire said:
you have botched the wiring up yourself robf1234 said:hi colin thanks i thought thats was all i had to do, but just wanted a second opinion,, why do people assume
Nobody accused you of botching the wiring yourself, so why counter-accuse and be threatening by putting the wording in bold and adding hostile icons? You originally asked for help and people tried to help you from the best of their knowledge.
We won't bother to help next time.
Woodentop said:
hi, yes the connection would carry only a few milliamps, [you would not expect a 13pin plug to carry a heavy load], as it is only a trigger wire for the relay, I just wrote the simplist explaination of how the system works as it seemed no one understood the principal of the interupted earth connection.
as the mover was transfered from another van, the dealer would have a duty of care to fit it to the new van as per specific manufacturers recommendations, immaterial of how it was fitted to the old van.
this would have no impact on either warranty or insurance, however if one was worried about altering the installation as fitted you could just simply get a 13pin plug use a 2.5 mm single wire connected between pins 3 and 6 and plug that in instead of the caravan plug,
while I am here, a previous post mentioned losing the remote signal which kept turning it off, this is a common occurance and caused because there is interference in the ariel wire, try moving it's location or extending it away from the electronics. a lot of installers just tape it to the top of the box this is not the best location for the ariel wire.
i was told to take it to a electrician and get it done properly if they dont know what i was talking about why say anything ? and the reason i put it in bold is to distinguish between the two posts ,,WoodlandsCamper said:robf1234 said:hi colin thanks i thought thats was all i had to do, but just wanted a second opinion,, why do people assume
Nobody accused you of botching the wiring yourself, so why counter-accuse and be threatening by putting the wording in bold and adding hostile icons? You originally asked for help and people tried to help you from the best of their knowledge.
We won't bother to help next time.
Facebook
Twitter