7 pin socket motor mover

[robf1234]

I sincerely hope not as that would mean the 60-80A drawn by the mover would be going through the 7-pin socket!

I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.

However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)

hi, yes the connection would carry only a few milliamps, [you would not expect a 13pin plug to carry a heavy load], as it is only a trigger wire for the relay, I just wrote the simplist explaination of how the system works as it seemed no one understood the principal of the interupted earth connection.

as the mover was transfered from another van, the dealer would have a duty of care to fit it to the new van as per specific manufacturers recommendations, immaterial of how it was fitted to the old van.
this would have no impact on either warranty or insurance, however if one was worried about altering the installation as fitted you could just simply get a 13pin plug use a 2.5 mm single wire connected between pins 3 and 6 and plug that in instead of the caravan plug,
this is what i have done just tried it and working perfect thanks for your help

while I am here, a previous post mentioned losing the remote signal which kept turning it off, this is a common occurance and caused because there is interference in the ariel wire, try moving it's location or extending it away from the electronics. a lot of installers just tape it to the top of the box this is not the best location for the ariel wire.

 

[colin-yorkshire]

hi colin thanks i thought thats was all i had to do, but just wanted a second opinion,, why do people assume you have botched the wiring up yourself

Nobody accused you of botching the wiring yourself, so why counter-accuse and be threatening by putting the wording in bold and adding hostile icons? You originally asked for help and people tried to help you from the best of their knowledge.

We won't bother to help next time.

i was told to take it to a electrician and get it done properly if they dont know what i was talking about why say anything ? and the reason i put it in bold is to distinguish between the two posts ,,

now, now, boys handbags away please, :cheer: :cheer: Rob, when there is any mention of DIY and caravans, the standard answer these days is to have it done by a professional, it usually crops up about the 2nd or 3rd post, because it is felt by many that the perversion [sorry can't think of a better word] of DIY is some sort of black art practice done by a few in the dead of night under a full moon while under the influence of some substance that assumes that practitioner might not know what they are doing.
just see it as it is advice, nothing else, if you know what your doing carry on.

ps, glad it's sorted wasn't that hard was it!!

 

[robf1234]

hi colin thanks i thought thats was all i had to do, but just wanted a second opinion,, why do people assume you have botched the wiring up yourself

Nobody accused you of botching the wiring yourself, so why counter-accuse and be threatening by putting the wording in bold and adding hostile icons? You originally asked for help and people tried to help you from the best of their knowledge.

We won't bother to help next time.

i was told to take it to a electrician and get it done properly if they dont know what i was talking about why say anything ? and the reason i put it in bold is to distinguish between the two posts ,,

now, now, boys handbags away please, :cheer: :cheer: Rob, when there is any mention of DIY and caravans, the standard answer these days is to have it done by a professional, it usually crops up about the 2nd or 3rd post, because it is felt by many that the perversion [sorry can't think of a better word] of DIY is some sort of black art practice done by a few in the dead of night under a full moon while under the influence of some substance that assumes that practitioner might not know what they are doing.
just see it as it is advice, nothing else, if you know what your doing carry on.

ps, glad it's sorted wasn't that hard was it!!

ha,,i have been going to try this for a while ,it is annoying when using the mover to plug this big adaptor into the caravan ,,then while i move it it pulls on the cable round the jockey wheel and stop working in the middle of the road where i live ,,all i have to do now is plug my 7 pin plug in with 3+ 6 pins linked and away i go ,,isolator on as well obviously ,,thanks again great help ,,,

 

[Gafferbill]

I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.

However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)

I also looked at the Truma document.......and I personally would be wary of carrying out the suggested modification.
My reading is that the arrangement is a fail safe device to prevent electronically engaged movers from engaging when being towed on the road.
Truma must think this could be a possibility with this particular model and I for one would not presume that I knew better than Truma.

 

[robf1234]

I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.

However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)

I also looked at the Truma document.......and I personally would be wary of carrying out the suggested modification.
My reading is that the arrangement is a fail safe device to prevent electronically engaged movers from engaging when being towed on the road.
Truma must think this could be a possibility with this particular model and I for one would not presume that I knew better than Truma.

hi what i have done is made a plug up wth the 3 and 6 pins linked up this is removed while driving only inserted while using mover but no cables attached,, so no chance of coming on to road wheels

 

[colin-yorkshire]

I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.

However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)

I also looked at the Truma document.......and I personally would be wary of carrying out the suggested modification.
My reading is that the arrangement is a fail safe device to prevent electronically engaged movers from engaging when being towed on the road.
Truma must think this could be a possibility with this particular model and I for one would not presume that I knew better than Truma.

or powertouch, or ego, or rhino, or any other mover manufacturer, that doesn't think an extra layer of fail safe is required, as in all things these days make it idiot proof as all owners are idiots and are going to sue if there isn't 4 layers of protection they forgot to use.
pardon me for being cynical but is that not what the isolator is for and that big red key that you attach to the van key ring so you dont leave it in, as the last thing thing you do before moving is lock the van up with the keys.
doh!!

it's like that new bike of mine before starting you have to, turn on the fuel, turn on the ignition, switch off the kill switch, place it in neutral pull the clutch in, and finally pull the front brake lever, before using the start button or it wont go oh and if the stands down it wont go either,

great so I will never try to start it in gear, good idea, until one day you need to bump it off, then you can't because you have to pull the brake lever and clutch at the same time, yeah brilliant.

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

pardon me for being cynical but is that not what the isolator is for and that big red key that you attach to the van key ring so you dont leave it in,

We find the big red key too big to carry around if attached to the key ring and possibly would mislay it if it was separate, so we remove it from the switch and leave it on the floor of the battery box. Haven't mis-layed it since.

 

[Dustydog]

Exactly what I do Sir WC. I keep meaning to tie it to the compartment but still haven't done so!!

 

[Woodentop]

I read through the Truma document shows that the system controller has a safety connection which requires a (negative) earth to be connected to it to make the controller work at all. Likely this will only carry a few milliamps.

However as you say it makes you wonder why it is fitted and of course it can be linked out - but what does that then do in terms of warranty (or for that matter insurance?)

I also looked at the Truma document.......and I personally would be wary of carrying out the suggested modification.
My reading is that the arrangement is a fail safe device to prevent electronically engaged movers from engaging when being towed on the road.
Truma must think this could be a possibility with this particular model and I for one would not presume that I knew better than Truma.

or powertouch, or ego, or rhino, or any other mover manufacturer, that doesn't think an extra layer of fail safe is required, as in all things these days make it idiot proof as all owners are idiots and are going to sue if there isn't 4 layers of protection they forgot to use.
pardon me for being cynical but is that not what the isolator is for and that big red key that you attach to the van key ring so you dont leave it in, as the last thing thing you do before moving is lock the van up with the keys.
doh!!

it's like that new bike of mine before starting you have to, turn on the fuel, turn on the ignition, switch off the kill switch, place it in neutral pull the clutch in, and finally pull the front brake lever, before using the start button or it wont go oh and if the stands down it wont go either,

great so I will never try to start it in gear, good idea, until one day you need to bump it off, then you can't because you have to pull the brake lever and clutch at the same time, yeah brilliant.

...and the make/model of bike is.....?

 

[Woodentop]

Boy am I glad my mover is hand engaged!

 

[WoodlandsCamper]

Boy am I glad my mover is hand engaged!

Do you keep the hand engage brace on your key ring? :silly:

 

[Gafferbill]

hi what i have done is made a plug up wth the 3 and 6 pins linked up this is removed while driving only inserted while using mover but no cables attached,, so no chance of coming on to road wheels

..........I understand your modification but to preserve the fail safe you have to remember to remove your modified plug.
I have never met a caravanner yet who has not forgotten something that previously they have remembered countless times.......leaving a breakaway cable attached for instance when unhitching. hmy:

You will have to remember to remember to remove your plug

 

[colin-yorkshire]

...and the make/model of bike is.....?

kawasaki ER6

 

[Gabsgrandad]

And I never realised having a motor mover was so complex! Must be a course I can go on somewhere?

 

[Woodentop]

...and the make/model of bike is.....?

kawasaki ER6

Ah, that explains it all......................

 

[Martin_E]

Truma movers require the 7/13 pin plug to be plugged into a socket on the "A' frame to complete the circuit for the motor mover to operate, it's a safety device. Essentially all this does is puts a short a across two pins this in turn activates the pcb for the mover.

I think it originally came out for Truma auto engage movers, reason being that they never used to be fitted with isolator switches, so in theory if the safety switch was not in place someone or a child could pick the buttons up or sit on them and activate the auto engage as you were driving along, hence the safety plug/socket.

 

[robf1234]

hi what i have done is made a plug up wth the 3 and 6 pins linked up this is removed while driving only inserted while using mover but no cables attached,, so no chance of coming on to road wheels

..........I understand your modification but to preserve the fail safe you have to remember to remove your modified plug.
I have never met a caravanner yet who has not forgotten something that previously they have remembered countless times.......leaving a breakaway cable attached for instance when unhitching. hmy:

You will have to remember to remember to remove your plug

hi this is true ,,but being as the safety socket is a 7 pin ,,and the caravan is a thirteen pin plug i have to use an adaptor ,,so i could just as easy leave the adaptor plugged in although this wouldn't complete the circuit ,,the adaptor cost £33 pounds i would have to be a bit stupid to forget to switch the isolator of and forget to take the plug out after i disengage the drive

 

[robf1234]

Truma movers require the 7/13 pin plug to be plugged into a socket on the "A' frame to complete the circuit for the motor mover to operate, it's a safety device. Essentially all this does is puts a short a across two pins this in turn activates the pcb for the mover.

I think it originally came out for Truma auto engage movers, reason being that they never used to be fitted with isolator switches, so in theory if the safety switch was not in place someone or a child could pick the buttons up or sit on them and activate the auto engage as you were driving along, hence the safety plug/socket.

i agree if it never had an isolator i would fit one myself ,,but it has one and a safety socket and you have to hold down two buttons together for 5 seconds or so to get it to engage think i will be quite safe with out the need for a safety socket